October 2020 – Page 2

Coco the Sausage Dog – Birthday Pattern

October 5, 2020 No Comments

Well, who would have thought! It’s our 3rd Birthday of PipsRainbow!! Three whole years!! Can’t quite believe it. Wow!! The usual thoughts of where has that time gone. Bonkers!! Can I just take this opportunity to thank you all for following and supporting me!! You really can’t know how much it means to me!! So so thankful to you all.

Three years ago today, I launched PipsRainbow. I had no idea where it would take me or what it would develop into. The main aim from the word go was to help others to enjoy crocheting as much as I do. To help them to have their own little rainbow ride of yarn & colour, to be able to create wonderful things with ease and to be part of a world wide community of crocheters.

I reckon I am definitely on track with that ethos & still hope to inspire many more to have a go. The best part of PipsRainbow Year 3 is the fact that my daughter is now properly knitting and crocheting. She has always shared my love of all things rainbowy and yarny, but now that she can create herself, is just an all time different level of happiness in our house. So chuffed for her. Bless her.
(Knitting before school – well why not!)

With all of these uncertain times, I feel it is even more important to have something that you enjoy doing. Something that can take your mind off things and concentrate on something positive. To be able to sit and create whilst chilling with your family, is such a wonderful thing. To keep those hands warm in the winter and to create woolly lovely socks to keep your tootsies warm too! It’s just a joy. And it’s also good to challenge yourself! And take pride in what you can achieve. I finally taught myself how to knit socks on circular needles!! Can’t tell you how chuffed I am with them and it’s true what they say, it’s totally addictive!! Can’t wait to get going with another pair!

Ironically, this must be the only PipsRainbow birthday that I can’t even crochet or knit on. Had a silly injection in my shoulder & not supposed to move it for a bit. So I’m guessing I will just have to drool over all the lovely yarn in my stash in the hope that I can start up again soon. The need to do something yarny wasn’t helped when one of Abby’s yummy bundles arrived on the door step today from Orchidean Luxury Yarns! Yum!!!! Or the magical Double Rainbow Sock yarn from the wonderful Liz at Yarn Badger that landed on the door mat too. Or even the rainbow splendidness of the double knit speckled rainbow yarn for my daughter’s birthday from the incredible Jodi at Cuddlebums Yarn that zoomed through the letterbox!! But hey. I can just dream for this week and keep them safe till I can. Serious sad face here!

Crocheting & Knitting for me gives me the ability to be able to make and create for others. Something that I just adore doing. Yesterday I shared my daughter’s rainbow cabbage patch blanket pattern with you all. She loves snuggling up underneath its warm and cosy magicalness.

I still owe my son his! He carries around the bag of wool around the house, just to remind me that I still need to make it for him! Ekk! Think I had better get on to that one!

Well here’s to another year of crocheting, yarny love, rainbow heaveness, fun and above all keeping happy and healthy. Stay home, stay safe, be together & just keep on crocheting and knitting!

Well on that note, I would like to introduce you to my wonderful little Coco. Every year on the PipsRainbow birthday, I publish a pattern. Year one was Uni the Unicorn, Year two was Alan the Rhino. So this year it just had to be a little Coco the Dachshund Dog.

Coco is a very special little pup. She has real character and spirit and the silkiest of doggy coats that ever there was. She lives with a very special family who are so so dear to us. They mean so much to us and their dear little Coco, that I just knew I had to share my little Coco with you all. She is quite small in size, but will definitely let you know she is there if she wants to. She loves little doggy treats and lots of cuddles, but her favourite place is snuggled up on her Mummy’s lap at the end of a long and tiring day. Definitely one snuggly little pouch.

So let’s get started with dear little Coco.

Level – Medium, is a little bit fiddly with all do the colour changes.

Supplies –

So for little Coco you will need 50g of dark brown and 50g of light brown double knit yarn. You also need about 20g of cream yarn for the back legs. You will also need a 3mm crochet hook, some toy stuffing, scissors, a blunt ended tapestry needle and some safety eyes and backs. There is also an option to use a safety nose like I have done, but if not you will just need some black yarn to sew a little nose on your dog.

PipsTips –

When crocheting a toy, always use a smaller crochet hook than usually stated on the yarn. This will ensure that your toy stuffing won’t show through!

Stitches –

Slip Stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Chain stitch (ch) – To make a chain, place the yarn over the hook then pull it through the loop on your hook.

Magic Ring – Fold over the yarn to make the loop. Insert your hook through the loop and grab the working yarn (long piece) and pull through the loop. Hold the tail and the working yarn and pull so that the knot tightens, but you still have a loop. This has created a magic ring.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Double Crochet Decrease (2dctog) – This is where you crochet two stitches together to decrease the amount of stitches in the round. So insert the hook through the front of the first stitch only (the front V) and then insert again through the front of the second stitch (the front V). Now yarn over your hook and pull it back through both stitches, so you will then have 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over your hook again and pull through both loops. And there is your 2dctog. (Basically 2 double crochet stitches crocheted together.)

Treble (tr) – To make a treble crochet, firstly yarn over your hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over your hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should now be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through the first two loops, yarn over hook and pull through the last two loops.

Useful Video Clips –

Ok so let’s go…

Body

1 – Right then, so first things first, use your dark brown to make your magic ring and chain 1. (Remember if you’re unsure of how to do this, see the tutorial section or the video link above) Now work 6dc stitches into the ring itself. You can now pull the little tail to close the ring. (6)

(Don’t forget to use your stitch marker to ensure you know where your rounds start and end.)

2 – Now work *2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – Work *1dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. In your last stitch, change to your light brown yarn. (18)

You can see below how I am grabbing both yarns in the last part of the last stitch.

Then completing the stitch by pulling both yarns through the last loop.

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 2 times and then change to your dark brown in the last stitch. Now work *2dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 4 times in your dark brown yarn. Then change back to light brown in your last stitch. (24)

5 – *3dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 2 times and then change to your dark brown in the last stitch. Now work *3dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 4 times in your dark brown yarn. Then change back to light brown in your last stitch. (30)

6 – *4dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 2 times and then change to your dark brown in the last stitch. Now work *4dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 4 times in your dark brown yarn. (36)

7 – Continuing in your dark brown work *5dc, then 2dc into next stitch. Work ** 6 times. (42)

8 – 11 (4 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (42)

12 – Work *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

13 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (36)

14 – *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

15 – 18 (4 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (30)

19 – *3dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (24)

20 – 24 (5 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (24)

25 – *3dc, then 2dc in the next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

26 – 27 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (30)

28 – *4dc, then 2dc in the next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

29 – *5dc, then 2dc in the next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (42)

30 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (42)

31 – *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

32 – *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (30

33 – *3dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (24)

34 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

This is a good time to stuff your body with toy stuffing.

35 – *1dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (12)

36 – *2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (6)

Now it’s time to slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off your yarn, leaving a tail for you to sew up your body. Sew up the hole using your blunt ended tapestry needle.

Front legs – make 2

1 – With your light brown make a magic ring and chain 1. Now work 4dc stitches into the ring itself and pull the little tail to close the ring. (4)

2 – *Work 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 4 times. Now slip stitch into the next stitch. (8)

3 – Now ch5 then 2dc into the second chain from hook. Now work 1dc into next 3 chains. Now you are back into the main round. Then work 1dc in the next 2 stitches. Now work 2dc into next 4 stitches, followed by 2dc, 1dc into the other side of the 3 chains and finish with 2dc in last chain. (22)

4 – In this round work 2dc in the next stitch, then 8dc, 2dc in the next stitch, 2dc, 2dc in next stitch, 8dc and finish the round with 2dc in next stitch. (26)

5 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (26)

6 – In this round work 6dc, then dc2tog, followed by 10dc, dc2tog and finish with 6dc. (24)

7 – In this round work 4dc, dc2tog, 3dc, dc2tog, 4dc, dc2tog and finish with 7dc. (21)

8 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 7 times. (14)

9 – *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. (12)

10 – 16 (7 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. In the last part of the last stitch, change to your dark brown yarn. (12)

17 – 21 (4 rounds) Using your dark brown work 6dc stitches, changing back to your light brown yarn in the last part of the 6th stitch. Then work 6dc stitches, changing back to your dark brown in the last part of the last stitch. (12)

22 – Using your light brown work 6dc stitches, changing back to your dark yarn in the last part of the 6th stitch. Then work 6dc stitches. (12)

23 – With your dark brown yarn work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

Slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off your yarn, leaving a tail for you to sew the leg on to the body. Don’t forget to stuff your foot and leg. Make sure you use enough stuffing, so that all the four legs will support the body and Coco will then stand up.

Back Legs – make 2

1 – With your light brown yarn make your magic ring and chain 1. Now work 4dc stitches into the ring itself and pull the little tail to close the ring. (4)

2 – *Work 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 4 times. Now slip stitch into the next stitch. (8)

3 – Now ch5 then work 2dc into the second chain from hook. Now work 1dc into next 3 chains. Now you are back into the main round. Then work 1dc in the next 2 stitches. Now work 2dc into next 4 stitches, 2dc, 1dc into the other sides of the 3 chains and finish with 2dc in last chain. (22)

4 – In this round work 2dc in the next stitch, then 8dc, 2dc, 2dc in next stitch, 8dc and finish the round with 2dc in last stitch. (26)

5 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (26)

6 – In this round work 6dc, then dc2tog, followed by 10dc, dc2tog and finish with 6dc. (24)

7 – Work 4dc, dc2tog, 3dc, dc2tog, 4dc, dc2tog and finish with 7dc. (21)

8 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 7 times. (14)

9 – *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. (12)

10 – 13 (4 rounds) Work 1dc in each. In the last part of the last stitch, change to your cream yarn. (12)

14 – Using your cream yarn work 3dc stitches, changing back to your light brown yarn in the last part of the 3rd stitch. Then work 9dc stitches in the light brown, changing back to your cream in the last part of the last stitch. (12)

15 – Work 5dc in your cream stitch, changing to your light brown yarn in the last part of the last stitch. Then work 7dc stitches in your light brown yarn, changing to cream in the last part of your last stitch. (12)

16 – Work 5dc in your cream yarn, changing to your light brown yarn in the last part of the last stitch. Then work 4dc stitches in your light brown yarn, changing to your dark brown yarn in the last part of your last stitch, then work the last 3dc stitches, changing to your cream in the last part of the last stitch. (12)

17 – Work 5dc in your cream stitch, changing to your light brown yarn in the last part of the last stitch. Then work 4dc stitches in your light brown yarn, changing to dark brown in the last part of your last stitch, then work the last 3dc stitches, changing to your cream in the last part of the last stitch. (12)

18 – Work 5dc in your cream yarn, changing to your light brown yarn in the last part of the last stitch. Then work 2dc stitches in your light brown yarn, changing to dark brown in the last part of your last stitch, then work the last 5dc stitches, changing to your light brown in the last part of the last stitch. (Fasten off your cream yarn, as you won’t need to use it anymore in the leg.) (12)

19 – 20 (2 rounds) Work 5dc in your light brown stitch, changing to your dark brown yarn in the last part of the last stitch. Then work the last 7dc stitches, changing to your light brown in the last part of the last stitch. (12)

21 – Work 4dc in your light brown stitch, changing to your dark brown yarn in the last part of the last stitch. Then work the last 8dc stitches, changing to your light brown in the last part of the last stitch. (12)

22 – Work 4dc in your light brown stitch, changing to your dark brown yarn in the last part of the last stitch. Then work the last 8dc stitches in your dark brown yarn. (12)

23 – With your dark brown yarn, work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

Tail –

1 – With you dark brown yarn, chain 12 and join with a ss to make a circle. (12)

2 – Work 1dc in each chain stitch. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (18)

5 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

6 – 7 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

8 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (9)

9 – 10 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (9)

11 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (6)

12 – 13 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (6)

14 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. (3)

Now ss into the next stitch and fasten off leaving a tail so that you can sew your tail onto your body. Don’t forget to stuff your tail at this point.

Head –

1 – With your dark brown yarn, make a magic ring and chain 1. Now work 6dc stitches into the ring itself. You can now pull the little tail to close the ring. (6)

2 – Now work *2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – *3dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

6 – *4dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

7 – 10 (4 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (36)

11 – *5dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (42)

12 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (42)

13 – *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

14 – *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. In the last stitch change to your light brown yarn. Then work *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 4 times. Change back to your dark brown yarn in the last stitch. (30)

16 – *2dctog.* Repeat 6 ** times. In your last stitch change to your light brown yarn. Then work 1dc in the next 18 stitches, changing back to dark brown in the last stitch. (24)

17 – Work 1dc in the first 6 stitches, changing to your light yarn in the last stitch. Then work 1dc in the next 18 stitches, changing to your dark yarn in the last stitch. (24)

18 – In your dark brown yarn work 1dc in the first 6 stitches, changing back to your light yarn in the last stitch. Then carry on working 1dc in each stitch, changing back to your dark brown yarn in the last stitch. (24)

This would be a good time to stuff your head.

19 – Now work 1dc in the first 6 stitches, changing your yarn to your light yarn in the last stitch. Then work 1dc in the next 4 stitches, work *2dctog* repeat ** 2 times. Then work 10dc stitches, changing to your dark yarn in the last stitch. (22)

This would be a good time to add your safety eyes onto your head. Make sure that you are happy with the positioning of the eyes, before you pop the backs on.

20 – 23 (4 rounds) In your dark brown yarn work 1dc in the first 6 stitches, changing back to your light yarn in the last stitch. Then carry on working 1dc in each stitch, finally changing back to your dark brown yarn in the last stitch. (22)

24 – Work 1dc in the first 6 stitches, changing to your light yarn in the last stitch. Then work 1dc in the next 2 stitches, work 2dctog. Then work 8dc stitches, then 2dctog. Followed by 2dc changing to your dark yarn in the last stitch. (20)

25 – Start by working 2dc, 2dctog, then 2dc, changing your yarn to your light yarn in the last stitch. Then work 1dc in the next 2 stitches, work 2dctog. Then work 6dc stitches, followed by 2dctog. Then 2dc stitches, changing to your dark yarn in the last stitch. (17)

26 – Work 5dc, changing your yarn to your light yarn in the last stitch. Then work 12dc stitches changing to your dark yarn in the last stitch. (17)

Now it’s time to add that safety nose on and once again ensuring that it is aligned properly on the head. If you are sewing a yarn nose on, then skip this bit out.

27 – Start by working 1dc, 2dctog, 2dc. changing to your light yarn in the last stitch. Then work 4dc, 2dctog, 2dctog, then 4dc, changing to your dark yarn in the last stitch. (14)

28 – Finally *2dctog.* Repeat this ** 7 times. (7)

Now slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off leaving a tail. Use your yarn tail to sew up your head and then leave a tail to sew the head onto the body.

Ears – make 2

1 – Chain 12, then ss into the first chain to make a ring. (12)

2 – Work 1dc in each chain. (12)

3 – 5 (3 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

6 – *3dc, then 2dc in next stitch.* Work ** 3 times. (15)

7 – *4dc, then 2dc in next stitch.* Work ** 3 times. (18)

8 – *5dc, then 2dc in next stitch.* Work ** 3 times. (21)

9 – *6dc, then 2dc in next stitch.* Work ** 3 times. (24)

10 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (24)

11 – *7dc, then 2dc in next stitch.* Work ** 3 times. (27)

12 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (27)

13 – *7dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (24)

14 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (24)

15 – *6dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (21)

16 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (21)

17 – *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (18)

18 – *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (15)

19 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (15)

20 – *3dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (12)

21 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (9)

22 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (6)

23 – *Work 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (3)

Finally slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off with enough yarn tail to sew the ears onto the head.

Heart Shaped Chest –

1 – Make a magic ring, ch1, then work 6dc into the ring. Then pull the tail tight. (6)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – No slip stitch into the first stitch and ch3. Then work 1tr in the next 7 stitches. Then work 1dc in the next 5 stitches. Then ch3 and work 1dc in the next 5 stitches and then 1tr in the next 7 stitches. Then ch3 and finally slip stitch into the bottom of the last 1tr in the round. Now fasten off leaving a tail for you to sew the heart onto the from of Coco.

Eyebrows – these are crocheted onto the finished head using your light brown yarn.

*Start by inserting your hook in where you want the eyebrow to start and then make a slip knot with your brown yarn onto your hook.

Pull the yarn through. Chain 1 which is the first stitch.

Then slip stitch across the next 3 stitches, so that you have 1 chain and 3 slip stitches. (4)

Then turn the head and work 1dc in each of these 4 slip stitches/chain stitch.

Then simply fasten off and sew in your ends.*

Repeat this ** above the other eye on the head.

Sewing Up Little Coco –

Now that you have all of your dog parts, all you need to do is sew it together.

I tend to start with the legs first, making sure that they are aligned with each other.

Then sew on the head, followed by the ears and the tail. With the ears, make sure you pinch the bottom of the ears first and work a couple of stitches through, so it pulls it together and gives it a good base. Finally see on your little heart onto the chest of your little Coco.

And there you have it. One little Coco.

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. Thanks ever so much for following me. As always, if there are any questions then please don’t hesitate to ask. Always happy to help.

Don’t forget to share your lovely little creations with me! Can’t wait to see them.

And thank you again for all your support!!

Happy Hooking.
🌈Xx

(Free pattern designed and brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it. ☺️Xx)

Patterns

My Rainbow Blanket

October 4, 2020 No Comments

Don’t you just love rainbows. Well, as you can tell, I do. It’s not just the splendid array of bright colours, but also what a rainbow represents – peace, serenity, hope & motivation. I reckon we could all do with a little bit of that at the moment couldn’t we. 2020 has definitely not been the year that we had all planned or hoped for. But when there is hope and love in the world and a dash of rainbowiness, then I reckon we will be just fine.

With all these uncertain times ahead, I decided a little bit of rainbowy loveliness, snuggled up in a dollop of yarn is what we all need. So here is my very rainbowy cabbage patch blanket.

When I decided to create this blanket, we lived in a world where going to a shop was an everyday occurrence. Having a coffee with a friend, going to your families house for dinner, attending school even, was just a normal part of everyday life. But still now, nearly 7 months after lockdown, we are still very far away from the world as we used to know it.

I started this blanket in one mode of our life, but then completed it in a rather different lockdown life. So I can safely say I am feeling rather emotional about sharing this pattern with you. We have definitely been on a bit of a lockdown rollercoaster since starting this blanket. Homeschooling, family food deliveries, video calls, date nights, food deliveries, helping neighbours & now back to school runs & wearing masks. It’s all been a bit bonkers hasn’t it. My daughter asked me the other day if antibac gel existed before we had to stop hugging people. It broke my heart a little bit. Think that’s how the children see this whole pandemic. Not being able to hug the people that we love. So sad.

It’s all been a bit of a learning curve for us all and I can safely say there has been some rather emotional moments. But, in true British style, we are coping and adapting and more importantly behaving ourselves.

So with all that in mind, I reckon we all need a bit of rainbow blanket of lockdown loveliness in our lives.

So let’s get started.

Let’s talk wool – so for my blanket, I wanted to use up all my little bits of wool. Odds and ends that I have lying around from previous projects. A lot of mine is from the beautiful Sublime range, but there is a few other different brands in there too. Feel like this blanket tells a little story about my crocheting life. I could definitely tell you which specific yarn was used for which project. Hee hee, worrying I know!! But obviously you are very welcome to use whatever colour combo that you like. Can’t wait to see all your creations.

Anyways, without further a do, here is my little rainbow cabbage patch blanket pattern. The Cabbage Patch stitch is a beautiful stitch, both delicate and intricate. It consist of a 2 row repeat, which includes some trebles and chain stitches.

I really hope you enjoy this pattern as much as I have.

Supplies –

Right so for this blanket, I have used lots of little bits of double knit yarn. You can use just a few different colours or all your odds and ends up. It’s up to you. You need about 800g of yarn altogether. That includes the yarn for the border too. If you don’t want to use up all your bits of yarn, you could use 16 balls of 50g Double Knit Yarn. Don’t forget your scissors and blunt ended tapestry needle. And of course your 4mm crochet hook. To block your blanket you will also need some sponge tiles and some long tipped pins, not forgetting a little hand wash detergent to wash your blanket.

Level – medium (A few stitches that need to be worked in a certain way.)

Stitches –

Chain (ch) – To make a chain stitch, make a slip knot on your hook and then place the yarn over your hook and pull through the loop. Repeat this action to make a row of stitches.

Half Treble (htr) – A half treble crochet is basically one less movement than a treble. So yarn over hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through all 3 loops.

Pips Tips – Starting a blanket

When you work your foundation chain at the very beginning of your blanket, make sure you work it quite loosely. You can even use a slightly bigger hook if you would like to. This will ensure that you start your blanket with a nice straight line. If your foundation chain is too tight, it will give you a rather curved edge to your blanket. And it is quite hard to correct.

Ok so let’s get started…

1 – Start by making a slip knot and working a foundation chain of 150 chain stitches. (150)

2 – Now turn your work and chain 1. Then work 1dc in the same stitch. (So the first stitch in the row.) Ok so now work 1dc in each stitch across the row. (150)

3 – Ok so now turn your work and chain 3. (This acts as 1tr.) Then miss the first and next stitch and work 1tr into the next stitch. This is where the arrow is pointing.

Follow this with 3 more tr stitches in the same stitch. (This makes a cluster of 4tr stitches.)

*Now miss 3 stitches and work 4tr stitches into the next stitch.* Then repeat ** to the end of the row.

Pips Tips – how to change yarns –

As this is a Using Up Pattern, you will need to change your yarns quite a few times. Now changing colour is very simple. All you need to do is start your next stitch by inserting your hook into your stitch and then when you yarn over your hook, grab both the new and old yarn and pull both through the stitch.

See how I am working both the old and the new yarn in the photo below.

Now finish the stitch as normal with both yarns. This will secure both the end of the old and the beginning of the new yarns. So pull both the old and the new yarn through the first 2 loops and then I would bring only the new yarn through the last 2 loops. Now you can either weave in those ends with your blunt ended tapestry needle now or at the end when you have finished the blanket. Up to you.

Right then, so once you have worked the row, there will be 3 stitches left. So just work 1tr in the last stitch. (150)

4 – Right so with this row we need to firstly chain 3 (this counts as your first 1tr).

Now miss the first stitch and then the next 3 stitches then work 1tr in the next stitch. So work your 1tr where the arrow is pointing.

This is what it should look like.

Now chain 2.

Now you are going to work 1tr stitch into the first of the 3 missed stitches. So you are working back on yourself. This stitch is where the arrow is pointing in the photo below.

See how it’s crossed in front of the other stitch in the photo below. So to do this start by placing the yarn over your hook and then inserting the hook front to back into the stitch. Now complete the stitch as normal – so yarn over and pull back through. Finally yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops. They yarn over your hook and pull through the last 2 loops. And that completes your 1tr stitch.

Now repeat the whole process again across the row. *So miss 3 stitches, work 1tr in the next stitch, chain 2 and then work 1tr in the first of the 3 missed stitches.* Repeat this ** across the row.

Finally work 1tr in the top of the chain 3 stitches from the row below. (150)

5 – Ok so turn your blanket and chain 3 (which acts as your first tr).

Then *work 4tr stitches into the chain 2 space.* This is where the arrow is pointing in the photo above.

Repeat ** across the whole row.

Then work 1tr in the top of the 3 chains from the row below. (150)

6 – Ok so now we are going repeat row 4. So chain 3 (this counts as your first tr). Now miss the first and the next 3 stitches then work 1tr in the next stitch. Now chain 2. Now you are going to work 1tr stitch into the first of the 3 missed stitches.

Ok *So miss 3 stitches, work 1tr in the next stitch, chain 2 and then work 1tr in the first of the 3 missed stitches.* Repeat this ** across the row.

Finally work 1tr in the top of the 3 chains from the row below. (150)

7 – Now it’s time to repeat row 5. Ok so turn your blanket and chain 3 (which acts as your first tr). Then *work 4tr stitches into the chain 2 space.* Repeat ** across the whole row. Work 1tr into the top of the chain 3 stitches. (150)

Right then, so now repeat rows 6 and 7 until you have 120 rows in total – 60 of row 6 and 60 of row 7. Don’t forget to sew in all those ends.

Well there we have the centre of your blanket. Love how random my colour changes are, yet it still creates a lovely rainbow.

Now it’s time for the border. Now I have chosen to use 3 different colours for my border. I have used a cream, a beige and then a silvery grey. Thought this combo would compliment the bright colours of the centre of the blanket quite well.

Round 1 Of Colour –

So start by attaching your new yarn (Cream) in the first chain of the foundation chain that you started the blanket with. Chain 1 and work 1dc in that first stitch. *Then ch1, miss a chain and then work 1dc in the next stitch*. Repeat this ** across the row.

When you get to the last 2 chain stitches, work 1dc in each stitch. (150)

Now turn your blanket, so that you are going to work your way up the next side of the blanket. Then chain 3 and work 1dc in the first space. Then ch1 and then work 1dc in the next space.

Work *1ch and 1dc in each space* Repeat this ** up the side of the blanket. At the end of the row, work 1ch and 1dc in the last space. (240)

Now Ch3 and then turn the corner and work 1dc in the corner space. Then miss a stitch and ch1. *Now work 1dc in the next stitch and then miss a stitch and ch1.* Repeat this ** across the row. (150)

Then work 1dc in the last stitch, ch1 and work 1dc in the corner space and then ch3, turn the blanket and work 1dc in the same space (as before.)

*Then work 1ch and 1dc in each space along the side.* Repeat this ** across the row. Finishing with 1ch and 1dc in the last space. (150)

Now ch3 and then slip stitch into the first stitch of the round to complete the first round of the border.

Round 2 Of Colour –

Keeping with the same coloured yarn, start by ch2 (this will give you the height of a htr stitch) Now work 1htr in the first stitch, *then ch1, miss 1ch then work 1htr in the next stitch.* Now repeat this ** across the row.

At the end of the row work 1htr then ch3 in the ch3 space then 1htr (this will create the corner.) Now work 1htr in the first stitch, miss a chain and then 1htr in the next stitch.* Repeat this ** to the end of the row. Then as before work 1htr, ch3 then 1htr in the chain 3 space to create the corner.

Once again work your way up the next side of the blanket by working 1htr in the first stitch, miss a chain and then 1htr in the next stitch.* Repeat this ** to the end of the row and then as before work 1htr, ch3 then 1htr in the chain 3 space.

Then for the last side of the blanket, now work 1htr in the first stitch, miss a chain and then 1htr in the next stitch.* Repeat this ** to the end of the row and then as before work 1htr, ch3 then 1htr in the chain 3 space. Finish the round by ss into the first stitch of the round.

Now you can repeat round 2 as many times as you like. It depends on how thick you would like the border. I have worked this round 8 times, obviously your stitch count will increase slightly for each round, as you are adding stitches to each of the corners. I worked 4 rounds in the cream yarn and then 4 in the beige yarn. Once you are happy, finish the round you are on by slip stitching into the first stitch in the last round. Then fasten off your yarn.

Round 3 Of Colour –

Round 3 creates the edging of the boarder. I thought this light silvery grey would finish it off nicely. Start by attaching the new yarn in the top of a htr stitch near one of the corners. Now ch1 and work 1dc in the top of the same htr stitch.

Now work 1dc in the top of the next chain stitch from the row below.

*Now work 1dc in the next htr stitch and then 1dc in the next 1ch.* Repeat this ** all the way around the blanket.

When you come to a corner. Just work 1dc, 1ch, 1dc in the ch3 space that you made for the corner in the previous round.

When you have finished the first round, ss into the top of the first dc stitch that you made, ch1 and work 1dc in the same first stitch. Then as before work 1dc in each stitch around the blanket. When you come to a corner, work 1dc, ch1 and 1dc in the ch1sp. This will give you a nice neat corner. Then carry on working 1dc in each stitch around the blanket.

Once you have worked all your way around the blanket, Ss into the first stitch in the round and fasten off. Woohoo! All finished.

Now it’s time to grab a cuppa and sew in all your ends with your blunt ended tapestry needle.

And there you have it, a beautiful rainbow blanket using up all your bits of yarn.

All that is left to do is block your blanket. It is really important to block your blanket, it will give you much more of a professional finish to your blanket. I give my blanket a wash in hand wash detergent, gently ring it out in a towel and then block it using your long tipped pins and sponge tiles.

Thought I would include one of my video tutorial on how to block your work. It will give you a few tips on blocking.

Well, I really hope you have enjoyed this pattern as much as I have. Can’t wait to see all of your creations. Think its a great way to use up all those little bits of yarn you have lying around, but alternatively would look great with a few specific colours. It’s definitely the weather for a snuggly blanket isn’t it! My toes seem to be a lot happier when they are snuggled up in a yummy yarn blanket.

Well stay safe all. If you have any questions, just shout.

Happy hooking.

🌈Xx

(Free pattern designed and brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it. ☺️Xx)

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