Bunnybert

Well hello my lovely ones. How are we all? I thought I would just pop on and share this little Eastery little bunny with you all. His name is Bunnybert and he is a bit of a cheeky bunny. Unfortunately, he has a likeness to Easter eggs and spends the whole year squirrelling them away in his burrow. As a matter of fact, he has eaten so many Easter eggs in his time, he is starting to look like one!!! Little pickle.

His cousin Egglebert on the other hand, is much better behaved. He doesn’t squirrel any away & shares them all with his family and friends. What a poppet. His pattern can be found in the pattern archive on the side or down below if your on a mobile. He would be very happy if you made him too! He does worry, that you will like Bunnybert more than you like him. I’m sure you will like them equally!! I know I do.

Bunnybert loves having fun and particularly likes Eastery parties, where he can be given with something chocolatey to someone. He even likes being hidden in a garden or on a doorstep for someone to find on Easter Sunday!!

So with that in mind, I will leave his little pattern below, just in case you dare to invite this little cheeky bunny into your home. Be aware, you may not have any Easter eggs left! They might just get squirrelled away by him! Naughty bunny!

Level – Easy (A great pattern to start with, when you are learning to crochet in the round.)

Supplies –

This is a great pattern to use up lots of little scraps of yarn. You only need 15g of double knit yarn. I have actually used West Yorkshire Spinners BoPeep yarn for my little Bunnyberts. It is a great yarn to use & really soft on the hands. Then you need a handful of white/cream DK yarn for the tail, a 3mm crochet hook, black/pink yarn/silk thread for the nose and eyes, some scissors and a blunt ended tapestry needle. And don’t forget the toy stuffing.

Stitches – 

Slip Stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Chain stitch (ch) – To make a chain, place the yarn over the hook then pull it through the loop on your hook.

Magic Ring – Fold over the yarn to make the loop. Insert your hook through the loop and grab the working yarn (long piece) and pull through the loop. Hold the tail and the working yarn and pull so that the knot tightens, but you still have a loop. This has created a magic ring.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Double Crochet Decrease (2dctog) – This is where you crochet two stitches together to decrease the amount of stitches in the round. So insert the hook through the front of the first stitch only (the front V) and then insert again through the front of the second stitch (the front V). Now yarn over your hook and pull it back through both stitches, so you will then have 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over your hook again and pull through both loops. And there is your 2dctog. (Basically 2 double crochet stitches crocheted together.)

Ok so here we go… 

Body – 

1 – Make a magic ring, ch1, then work 6dc into the ring. Then pull the tail tight. (6)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – *3dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30) 

6 – 8 (3 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (30)

9 – *4dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

10 – 11 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (36)

12 – *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

13 – *8dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (27)

14 – *7dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (24)

15 – *6dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (21) 

16 – *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (18) 

17 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (18) 

This is a good time to stuff your body.

18 – *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (15) 

19 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (15) 

20 – *3dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (12) 

21 – *2dc then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (9) 

22 – Finally work 1dc in each stitch. (9) Then slip stitch into next stitch and sew up the hole and fasten off. Don’t forget to sew in your end. 

Ears – make 2

1 – Start by chaining 8 and then ss to make a ring. Then work 1dc in each chain. (8)

2 – 5 (4 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (8)

6 – Work *1dc, then 2dc in next stitch*. Work this ** 4 times. (12)

7 – 8 (2 rounds) 1dc in each stitch. (12)

9 – Work *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work this ** 2 times. (10)

10 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (10)

11 – Work *3dc, then 2dctog.* Work this ** 2 times. (8)

12 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (8)

13 – Work *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work this ** 2 times. (6)

13 – Work *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work this ** 2 times. (4)

Now it’s time to fasten off and leave a long tail to sew your ear onto the body.

Tail – Make in white/cream yarn.

1 – Make a magic ring, ch1, then work 6dc into the ring. Then pull the tail tight. (6)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – Work *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work this ** 6 times. (12)

5 – Work *2dctog.* Work this ** 6 times. (6)

Now fasten off your end leaving a tail, sew up the top and leave a tail to sew it on to the body.

Assembling your Bunnybert –

Right then, so now you have all of your body, it’s time to sew them altogether.

Start with the ears. Use the long tail of your yarn to sew up the end of the ear, then thread it up to the top where the opening is. Now sew the ear on to the top of the body. Repeat this for the other ear, making sure they are in line with each other.

Now for the the tail, sew it on near the bottom of the body, this will allow the bunny to sit up when it is finished.

Then use your silk threads or black/pink yarn to create the eyes, eyebrows and nose.

Here’a how I did the nose.

I tend to just go over one stitch for the eyes. And then the eyebrows, work then at a diagonal. For the mouth, you can always come up in the middle & straight back into the same stitch to ensure that it creates a smile!

And there you have it. You’re very own little Bunnybert.

I really hope you like this Easter pattern. Don’t forget to share all your creations and tag me in. If you have any questions or queries, just give us a shout.

Now, as with all my patterns, they are all here for you to enjoy. And in exchange for these patterns, I would be very grateful if you could give, however little, a donation to our chosen charity Child Bereavement UK. This is an incredible Charity, that was been close to our hearts for a few years now. I cannot imagine how important the work they do is to the families that help. So if you can, however small, donate to the charity, in exchange for my pattern, then I would be so grateful. Thank you. Here’s the link to the Just Giving Page

Happy Hooking.

🌈Xx

(Free pattern brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it.)

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My Rainbow Blanket

Don’t you just love rainbows. Well, as you can tell, I do. It’s not just the splendid array of bright colours, but also what a rainbow represents – peace, serenity, hope & motivation. I reckon we could all do with a little bit of that at the moment couldn’t we. 2020 has definitely not been the year that we had all planned or hoped for. But when there is hope and love in the world and a dash of rainbowiness, then I reckon we will be just fine.

With all these uncertain times ahead, I decided a little bit of rainbowy loveliness, snuggled up in a dollop of yarn is what we all need. So here is my very rainbowy cabbage patch blanket.

When I decided to create this blanket, we lived in a world where going to a shop was an everyday occurrence. Having a coffee with a friend, going to your families house for dinner, attending school even, was just a normal part of everyday life. But still now, nearly 7 months after lockdown, we are still very far away from the world as we used to know it.

I started this blanket in one mode of our life, but then completed it in a rather different lockdown life. So I can safely say I am feeling rather emotional about sharing this pattern with you. We have definitely been on a bit of a lockdown rollercoaster since starting this blanket. Homeschooling, family food deliveries, video calls, date nights, food deliveries, helping neighbours & now back to school runs & wearing masks. It’s all been a bit bonkers hasn’t it. My daughter asked me the other day if antibac gel existed before we had to stop hugging people. It broke my heart a little bit. Think that’s how the children see this whole pandemic. Not being able to hug the people that we love. So sad.

It’s all been a bit of a learning curve for us all and I can safely say there has been some rather emotional moments. But, in true British style, we are coping and adapting and more importantly behaving ourselves.

So with all that in mind, I reckon we all need a bit of rainbow blanket of lockdown loveliness in our lives.

So let’s get started.

Let’s talk wool – so for my blanket, I wanted to use up all my little bits of wool. Odds and ends that I have lying around from previous projects. A lot of mine is from the beautiful Sublime range, but there is a few other different brands in there too. Feel like this blanket tells a little story about my crocheting life. I could definitely tell you which specific yarn was used for which project. Hee hee, worrying I know!! But obviously you are very welcome to use whatever colour combo that you like. Can’t wait to see all your creations.

Anyways, without further a do, here is my little rainbow cabbage patch blanket pattern. The Cabbage Patch stitch is a beautiful stitch, both delicate and intricate. It consist of a 2 row repeat, which includes some trebles and chain stitches.

I really hope you enjoy this pattern as much as I have.

Supplies –

Right so for this blanket, I have used lots of little bits of double knit yarn. You can use just a few different colours or all your odds and ends up. It’s up to you. You need about 800g of yarn altogether. That includes the yarn for the border too. If you don’t want to use up all your bits of yarn, you could use 16 balls of 50g Double Knit Yarn. Don’t forget your scissors and blunt ended tapestry needle. And of course your 4mm crochet hook. To block your blanket you will also need some sponge tiles and some long tipped pins, not forgetting a little hand wash detergent to wash your blanket.

Level – medium (A few stitches that need to be worked in a certain way.)

Stitches –

Slip Stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Chain (ch) – To make a chain stitch, make a slip knot on your hook and then place the yarn over your hook and pull through the loop. Repeat this action to make a row of stitches.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Treble (tr) – To make a treble crochet, firstly yarn over your hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over your hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should now be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through the first two loops, yarn over hook and pull through the last two loops.

Half Treble (htr) – A half treble crochet is basically one less movement than a treble. So yarn over hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through all 3 loops.

Pips Tips – Starting a blanket

When you work your foundation chain at the very beginning of your blanket, make sure you work it quite loosely. You can even use a slightly bigger hook if you would like to. This will ensure that you start your blanket with a nice straight line. If your foundation chain is too tight, it will give you a rather curved edge to your blanket. And it is quite hard to correct.

Ok so let’s get started…

1 – Start by making a slip knot and working a foundation chain of 150 chain stitches. (150)

2 – Now turn your work and chain 1. Then work 1dc in the same stitch. (So the first stitch in the row.) Ok so now work 1dc in each stitch across the row. (150)

3 – Ok so now turn your work and chain 3. (This acts as 1tr.) Then miss the first and next stitch and work 1tr into the next stitch. This is where the arrow is pointing.

Follow this with 3 more tr stitches in the same stitch. (This makes a cluster of 4tr stitches.)

*Now miss 3 stitches and work 4tr stitches into the next stitch.* Then repeat ** to the end of the row.

Pips Tips – how to change yarns –

As this is a Using Up Pattern, you will need to change your yarns quite a few times. Now changing colour is very simple. All you need to do is start your next stitch by inserting your hook into your stitch and then when you yarn over your hook, grab both the new and old yarn and pull both through the stitch.

See how I am working both the old and the new yarn in the photo below.

Now finish the stitch as normal with both yarns. This will secure both the end of the old and the beginning of the new yarns. So pull both the old and the new yarn through the first 2 loops and then I would bring only the new yarn through the last 2 loops. Now you can either weave in those ends with your blunt ended tapestry needle now or at the end when you have finished the blanket. Up to you.

Right then, so once you have worked the row, there will be 3 stitches left. So just work 1tr in the last stitch. (150)

4 – Right so with this row we need to firstly chain 3 (this counts as your first 1tr).

Now miss the first stitch and then the next 3 stitches then work 1tr in the next stitch. So work your 1tr where the arrow is pointing.

This is what it should look like.

Now chain 2.

Now you are going to work 1tr stitch into the first of the 3 missed stitches. So you are working back on yourself. This stitch is where the arrow is pointing in the photo below.

See how it’s crossed in front of the other stitch in the photo below. So to do this start by placing the yarn over your hook and then inserting the hook front to back into the stitch. Now complete the stitch as normal – so yarn over and pull back through. Finally yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops. They yarn over your hook and pull through the last 2 loops. And that completes your 1tr stitch.

Now repeat the whole process again across the row. *So miss 3 stitches, work 1tr in the next stitch, chain 2 and then work 1tr in the first of the 3 missed stitches.* Repeat this ** across the row.

Finally work 1tr in the top of the chain 3 stitches from the row below. (150)

5 – Ok so turn your blanket and chain 3 (which acts as your first tr).

Then *work 4tr stitches into the chain 2 space.* This is where the arrow is pointing in the photo above.

Repeat ** across the whole row.

Then work 1tr in the top of the 3 chains from the row below. (150)

6 – Ok so now we are going repeat row 4. So chain 3 (this counts as your first tr). Now miss the first and the next 3 stitches then work 1tr in the next stitch. Now chain 2. Now you are going to work 1tr stitch into the first of the 3 missed stitches.

Ok *So miss 3 stitches, work 1tr in the next stitch, chain 2 and then work 1tr in the first of the 3 missed stitches.* Repeat this ** across the row.

Finally work 1tr in the top of the 3 chains from the row below. (150)

7 – Now it’s time to repeat row 5. Ok so turn your blanket and chain 3 (which acts as your first tr). Then *work 4tr stitches into the chain 2 space.* Repeat ** across the whole row. Work 1tr into the top of the chain 3 stitches. (150)

Right then, so now repeat rows 6 and 7 until you have 120 rows in total – 60 of row 6 and 60 of row 7. Don’t forget to sew in all those ends.

Well there we have the centre of your blanket. Love how random my colour changes are, yet it still creates a lovely rainbow.

Now it’s time for the border. Now I have chosen to use 3 different colours for my border. I have used a cream, a beige and then a silvery grey. Thought this combo would compliment the bright colours of the centre of the blanket quite well.

Round 1 Of Colour –

So start by attaching your new yarn (Cream) in the first chain of the foundation chain that you started the blanket with. Chain 1 and work 1dc in that first stitch. *Then ch1, miss a chain and then work 1dc in the next stitch*. Repeat this ** across the row.

When you get to the last 2 chain stitches, work 1dc in each stitch. (150)

Now turn your blanket, so that you are going to work your way up the next side of the blanket. Then chain 3 and work 1dc in the first space. Then ch1 and then work 1dc in the next space.

Work *1ch and 1dc in each space* Repeat this ** up the side of the blanket. At the end of the row, work 1ch and 1dc in the last space. (240)

Now Ch3 and then turn the corner and work 1dc in the corner space. Then miss a stitch and ch1. *Now work 1dc in the next stitch and then miss a stitch and ch1.* Repeat this ** across the row. (150)

Then work 1dc in the last stitch, ch1 and work 1dc in the corner space and then ch3, turn the blanket and work 1dc in the same space (as before.)

*Then work 1ch and 1dc in each space along the side.* Repeat this ** across the row. Finishing with 1ch and 1dc in the last space. (150)

Now ch3 and then slip stitch into the first stitch of the round to complete the first round of the border.

Round 2 Of Colour –

Keeping with the same coloured yarn, start by ch2 (this will give you the height of a htr stitch) Now work 1htr in the first stitch, *then ch1, miss 1ch then work 1htr in the next stitch.* Now repeat this ** across the row.

At the end of the row work 1htr then ch3 in the ch3 space then 1htr (this will create the corner.) Now work 1htr in the first stitch, miss a chain and then 1htr in the next stitch.* Repeat this ** to the end of the row. Then as before work 1htr, ch3 then 1htr in the chain 3 space to create the corner.

Once again work your way up the next side of the blanket by working 1htr in the first stitch, miss a chain and then 1htr in the next stitch.* Repeat this ** to the end of the row and then as before work 1htr, ch3 then 1htr in the chain 3 space.

Then for the last side of the blanket, now work 1htr in the first stitch, miss a chain and then 1htr in the next stitch.* Repeat this ** to the end of the row and then as before work 1htr, ch3 then 1htr in the chain 3 space. Finish the round by ss into the first stitch of the round.

Now you can repeat round 2 as many times as you like. It depends on how thick you would like the border. I have worked this round 8 times, obviously your stitch count will increase slightly for each round, as you are adding stitches to each of the corners. I worked 4 rounds in the cream yarn and then 4 in the beige yarn. Once you are happy, finish the round you are on by slip stitching into the first stitch in the last round. Then fasten off your yarn.

Round 3 Of Colour –

Round 3 creates the edging of the boarder. I thought this light silvery grey would finish it off nicely. Start by attaching the new yarn in the top of a htr stitch near one of the corners. Now ch1 and work 1dc in the top of the same htr stitch.

Now work 1dc in the top of the next chain stitch from the row below.

*Now work 1dc in the next htr stitch and then 1dc in the next 1ch.* Repeat this ** all the way around the blanket.

When you come to a corner. Just work 1dc, 1ch, 1dc in the ch3 space that you made for the corner in the previous round.

When you have finished the first round, ss into the top of the first dc stitch that you made, ch1 and work 1dc in the same first stitch. Then as before work 1dc in each stitch around the blanket. When you come to a corner, work 1dc, ch1 and 1dc in the ch1sp. This will give you a nice neat corner. Then carry on working 1dc in each stitch around the blanket.

Once you have worked all your way around the blanket, Ss into the first stitch in the round and fasten off. Woohoo! All finished.

Now it’s time to grab a cuppa and sew in all your ends with your blunt ended tapestry needle.

And there you have it, a beautiful rainbow blanket using up all your bits of yarn.

All that is left to do is block your blanket. It is really important to block your blanket, it will give you much more of a professional finish to your blanket. I give my blanket a wash in hand wash detergent, gently ring it out in a towel and then block it using your long tipped pins and sponge tiles.

Thought I would include one of my video tutorial on how to block your work. It will give you a few tips on blocking.

Well, I really hope you have enjoyed this pattern as much as I have. Can’t wait to see all of your creations. Think its a great way to use up all those little bits of yarn you have lying around, but alternatively would look great with a few specific colours. It’s definitely the weather for a snuggly blanket isn’t it! My toes seem to be a lot happier when they are snuggled up in a yummy yarn blanket.

Well stay safe all. If you have any questions, just shout.

Happy hooking.

🌈Xx

(Free pattern designed and brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it. ☺️Xx)

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