Advent Shawl

New Month, new week, new day… new pattern. (Super excited about this one!)

Hello my lovely ones. How are we all? January 2021 has finally come to an end. Did anyone do dry January? I am mightily impressed if you did. Especially if you have little ones at home and homeschooling is on the cards. I’m afraid we didn’t, but there’s always next year!

Our January seems to have gone in a bit of a blur to be honest. The lockdown started so soon after Christmas, that it all seems to roll into one. Lockdown seems to feel more normal this time, which worries me slightly. But I’m guessing we have just all adapted and just getting on with it! Really feel for all you out there that are trying to get a job done, whilst homeschooling and keeping the house going! Hats off to you all. Let’s hope that this is the last final push to kick the virus back to Timbuktu!!

Hope is on its way though…

So as it’s rather cold and chilly Monday evening, I thought I would share my latest design with you all. This is my Advent Shawl.

I have made this from my magical Advent Calendar from the amazing Abby over at Orchidean Luxury Yarns. Here’s is the link to her wonderful website.

https://luxuryyarns.co.uk/

If you are one of the lucky ones, that had one, you will know that this calendar, was on a whole different level to any other calendar!

It was filled with 24 little sumptuous hand dyed balls of yummy yarn, 24 stitch markers and some wonderful Dōterra Essential Oils. And if that wasn’t enough, it even came with a full skein of yarn, a row counter and a full bottle of Cheer Essential oil that was to be opened on Christmas Day. It was such a treat. If you are interested for this years calendar, I’ve popped a review on here, so that you can see what it’s all about.

So I have been super excited about sharing this Advent Shawl with you. I have always wanted to create a simple, yet elegant rainbow shawl. So when I saw all the little balls of rainbow heaven that kept appearing from my advent calendar from Abby at Orchidean Luxury Yarns, I couldn’t resist designing one.

The colours go so well together and create such a gentle array of rainbow shades. I had great fun working out the order.

This shawl would also be a great way to use up lots of odds and ends of yarn. The fact that there is no colour pattern, so you can change colour whenever you like, gives you the option to use whatever yarn you prefer.

If you just want to use one colour then that is fine too or even a nice variegated yarn. Can’t wait to see what you decide.
Another option for this shawl is to make it in a different weight yarn. It would be lovely and quick to make up in a double knit yarn. Just use a 5mm crochet hook. Or alternatively this is one that I have started, but in a lace weight yarn, so I’m using a 3mm crochet hook.

Right, so let’s get started.

Supplies

This Advent Shawl is made up of 450g of 4ply yarn. But you can use less, if you would like to make it smaller. (350g would be enough for a smaller shawl.) With Abby’s Advent Calendar, there was a few little bits that I didn’t use. This would have been when I didn’t want the colour change in a too dominant place. (E.g at the tip of the triangle!)

You will also need a 4mm crochet hook, a pair of scissors and blunt ended tapestry needle to sew in your ends. You also need to block your work, so I use sponge floor tiles and some long ended pins for this. (But you can use whatever blocking method you prefer.)

Level – Easy

Stitches – 

Magic Ring – Fold over the yarn to make the loop. Insert your hook through the loop and grab the working yarn (long piece) and pull through the loop. Hold the tail and the working yarn and pull so that the knot tightens, but you still have a loop. This has created a magic ring.

Chain (ch) – To make a chain, place the yarn over the hook then pull it through the loop on your hook.

ch2sp – This is known as the Chain 2 Space.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Half Treble Crochet (htr) – A half treble crochet is basically one less movement than a treble. So yarn over hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through all 3 loops.

Back Loop Half Treble Crochet (blhtr) – Yarn over your hook and insert the hook through the second part of the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have three loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through all three loops.

Treble Crochet (tr) – To make a treble crochet, firstly yarn over your hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over your hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should now be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through the first two loops, yarn over hook and pull through the last two loops.

Back Loop Treble Crochet (bltr) – Yarn over your hook and insert the hook through the second part of the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have three loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through the first two loops. Then yarn over your hook and pull through the last two loops.

When you are working a back loop stitch, you literally just insert your hook into the back part of the stitch. So the back V! You can see this is where the arrow is pointing.

If you need just a little bit more assurance on some of these stitches, then you can fly over to my You Tube channel for some videos. (Just follow the You Tube link at the top of the website.)

PipsTips – If you are using lots of different colours, have a little play with the order. I tend to make a tiny little swatch with each colour way. Just crochet up a few rows, just to see how the colours work together. Trust me it will save you a lot of time in the long run. (Having to do a full row, because it doesn’t go, can be rather soul destroying!)

Because of the 8 row repeat in this pattern, it’s one of those crochets, that you can work up without really thinking about it. There is no real stitch count, which is a bonus. So you can just keep on going.

One last thing before you get started – it’s always a good plan to sew in your ends in, as you are going along. It saves so much time at the end of the project and when you have finished crocheting, you can block it straight away.

Ok so here we go…

1 – Make a magic ring, ch3, then work 3tr into the ring, then chain 2 and work another 4tr stitches into the ring. Then pull the tail tight. (I tend to make a little knot here, just to keep the magic ring closed.)

2 – Turn your work, ch3, 2tr in the first stitch, then 1tr in each tr stitch in the row. Then work 1tr, ch2 and 1tr in the top of the ch2sp. Now work 1tr in each stitch in the row, finally working 2tr in the top of the chain 3 from the previous round.

3 – Turn your work, ch3, 2tr in the first stitch, then 1tr in each stitch in the row. Then work 1tr, ch2, 1tr in the ch2sp. Now work 1tr in each stitch in the row. Finally work 2tr in the top of the chain 3 from the previous round.

4 – 7 (4 rows) *Turn your work, ch3, 2bltr in the first stitch, then 1bltr each stitch in the row. Then work 1bltr, ch2, and 1bltr in the ch2sp. Now work 1tr in each stitch. Finally work 2bltr in the top of the chain 3 from the previous round.* Repeat ** four times.

8 – Turn your work, ch3, 2tr in the first stitch, then 1tr in each stitch in the row. Then work 1tr, ch2, 1tr in the ch2sp. Now work 1tr in each stitch in the row. Finally work 2tr in the top of the chain 3 from the previous round.

9 – Right so now turn your work and chain 3. Then work 2tr in the first stitch. *Now chain 1, miss 1 stitch and work 1tr in the next stitch.* Repeat this ** across the row. In the ch2sp work 1tr, ch2 and 1tr. Now work 1tr in the first stitch. *Now chain 1, miss 1 stitch and work 1tr in the next stitch.* Repeat this ** across the row. Then work 2tr in the top of the chain 3 from the row below. 

10 – Right so turn your work and chain 3.  Now work 2tr in the first stitch and then 1tr in the next 2 stitches and then 1tr in the first ch1sp. *Now work 1tr in the next stitch and in the next ch1sp.* Repeat this ** across the row. Finish the row with 1tr in the last 2 stitches. Now in the ch2sp, work 1tr, ch2 and 1tr. Then work 1tr in the first stitch. *Now work 1tr in the next stitch, then 1tr in the next ch1sp.* Repeat this ** across the row. Finish the row by working 1tr in the last 2 stitches and then 2tr in the top of ch3 from the row below.

Now it’s time to repeat the last 8 rows. So repeat rows 3 – 10 until you are happy with the size of your shawl. For mine, I worked these 8 rows, 13 times. But as I have said before, it’s really up to you how big you make your shawl.

Now once you are happy with the size of your shawl, you need to add the finishing rows. So if you are making your shawl with lots of different yarns, you many want to use one particular colour for this. I made sure I worked only 2 rows of the last 3 colours. This was to make sure I had a nice solid edge ocolour to my shawl.

So to finish off your shawl –

*Turn your work, ch3, 2tr in the first stitch, then 1tr in each stitch. Then in the ch2sp work 1tr, ch2 and 1tr. Now work 1tr in each stitch in the rest of the row. Finally work 2tr in the top of the chain 3 from the previous round.* Repeat this ** twice.

Now turn your work, ch1, 2dc in the first stitch, then 1dc in each stitch. Then in the ch2sp work 1dc, ch2 and 1dc. Now work 1dc in each stitch in the row. Finally work 2dc in the top of the chain 3 from the previous round.

This is your final row. Turn your work, ch2 and work 2blhtr in the first stitch, then work 1blhtr in each stitch in the row. Then in the ch2sp, work 1htr, ch2 and 1htr. Now work 1blhtr into each stitch in the row, finally working 2blhtr in the top of the chain 1 from the previous round.

Now fasten off and sew in your ends.

Blocking your work –

Now all you need to do is block your work.

I tend to use sponge floor tiles for this and long ended pins.

Here’s a little video on how to block, if you are unsure of how to block.

And there you have it, your beautiful triangular shawl. Can’t wait to see all of your creations. Don’t forget to share. You can use the tag #pipsrainbow and #adventshawl And share on any of the social media platforms.

If you any questions, just give me a shout and I will be only to happy to help.

Stay safe all.

Happy hooking.

🌈Xx

(Free pattern designed and brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it. ☺️Xx)

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Alan the Rhino – Birthday Pattern

Well hello my lovely ones, how are we all? Hope you are all having a lovely day so far. We’ve been to Calke Abbey National Trust today. Such a lovely place to visit if you are ever in the area. Love our little family trips out together. I think weekends can get so wrapped up with seeing people and parties and things. Which is lovely, but I do think it is really important to have quality time as a family and revel in each other’s company. And National Trusts are perfect for that!! We love exploring new places, but definitely have some local favourites too and Calke Abbey is one of them!! Such a beautiful place!!

Today we had a great time there, running through all the trees and the gardens filled with blooming flowers and autumnal vegetables. Not to mention some seriously huge pumpkins!!

But the icing on the cake today was all the hidden tunnels in the grounds and meeting a particularly lovely volunteer called Alan who showed us down a new tunnel that they had discovered! It was under the hot houses where they grew all the exotic fruit in the gardens. One of them even had a fire underneath the floor so that they could grow pineapples!! Imagine that!! They didn’t even eat them, they grew them as a sign of wealth!! Bonkers!! But the best bit was finding these little creatures in one of the tunnels!!

They are hibernating moths apparently, all attached to a cobweb!! Amazing! There was no other sign of life down there, other than these little guys!! Think Alan our tour guide was quite impressed that we found them! He was such a nice guy and a volunteer too!! So in honour of our lovely tunnel tour guide, my pattern today has been named after him! Alan the Rhino! Not sure you’d ever have seen a Rhino at Calke Abbey, but still! It had to be done!!

So today is a little bit of a special day for me, as it’s PipsRainbow’s 2 Year Birthday!!! Can’t quite believe it really!! 2 Years!! How crazy is that!! Rather chuffed with how far PipsRainbow has come. Love that my patterns are now being shared and enjoyed by so many of you. Makes me so so happy.

I started PipsRainbow 2 years ago with the intention of sharing some serious crochet yarny love with you all. I wanted to share this magical creative activity that had given me so much pleasure over the years. I realised that many of the crochet patterns out there, could be a little confusing for any beginner and especially for someone like me who is decidedly dyslexic!!! So the mission was to share photo tutorial patterns, that were easy to follow and create. It is something I feel very passionate about and hope that you all enjoy my patterns and that they are quite easy to follow.

This year has all been about using up all my odds and ends. I have a funny feeling I might be making next year a Using Up Year as well. Seem to still have lots of yarn to use up!! Whoops!! There are so many other patterns I’d like to share with you and there’s definitely going to be a CAL next year too, which I am rather excited about!! I think that that is one of the best things about crocheting, is the ability to be able to design and create beautiful things with just little bits of yarn.

Here’s a few of my little creations from Year 2 of PipsRainbow. All of their free patterns can be found on my blog, just look in the pattern list.

So to celebrate my 2 year birthday, I thought I would share this little pattern of mine with you. I made it for my dear son. It is the first thing my little man has ever asked me to make, so it’s a pattern that is rather close to my heart.

We went to West Midlands Safari Park again a few weeks ago and my little son was so excited to see the Rhinos again!! He was so taken with them! It was quite funny, considering that my husband wouldn’t get to near to them! Think it was their rather large horn that was decidedly close to his car that was making him edgy!!! (Please we weren’t in my car!!)

So when my son asked if I would make him a woolly rhino, I just couldn’t resist. I really hope you like this pattern. It has a different body to the other patterns I have on the blog so I hope you like it. Hoping to share a mouse and an elephant in the same kind of pattern in the next few months too.

So here it is. Hope you enjoy it.

Level – Easy

Supplies

So for this pattern your will need 1 ball of dark grey 50g double knit yarn, just a small bit of light grey yarn for the horns and black yarn for the eyes and eyebrows. You will also need some scissors, toy stuffing, blunt ended tapestry needle and a 3mm crochet hook.

For my dark drey yarn i used this fab Rowan Alpaca Soft Yarn from my local yarn shop the Knitting Corner. It was lovely to work and will definitely be using it again!!

Stitches

Magic Ring (mr) – For a magic ring, make a loop with the yarn, leaving a tail. (Make sure the tail is under the working yarn.) Now insert your hook into the loop, from the front to the back. Wrap the working yarn around your hook and pull the yarn through and pull tight to create a ring.

Slip stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Double Crochet Decrease (2dctog) – This is where you crochet two stitches together to decrease the amount of stitches in the round. So insert the hook through the front of the first stitch only (the front V) and then insert again through the front of the second stitch (the front V). Now yarn over your hook and pull it back through both stitches, so you will then have 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over your hook again and pull through both loops. And there is your 2dctog. (Basically 2 double crochet stitches crocheted together.)

Ok so here we go…

Body –

1 – Using your 3mm hook, make a magic ring, chain 1 and then work 6dc stitches into the ring. (If you’re unsure of how to work a magic ring, here’s a link to a video tutorial.)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – *3dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

6 – *4dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

7 – 24 (18 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (36)

25 – *5dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (42)

26 – *6dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (48)

27 – 28 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (48)

29 – *6dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (42)

(If you’re unsure of how to work a 2dctog, here’s a video tutorial.)

30 – *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

31 – *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

32 – *Work 2dctog followed by 13dc.* Work ** 2 times. (28)

Now it’s time to spilt the main body ring and work 2 separates ones to make the 2 legs.

Leg 1 –

1 – Work 7dc stitches.

Then split the round. Do you basically work on the other side of your round. I tend to count back from the stitch marker the amount of stitches I would need. So for this pattern it’s 7 stitches. Then insert your hook there as you can see in the photo below.

Then work 7dc in these last 7 stitches. (14)

2 – 1dc in each stitch to complete your second round. (14)

3 – 17 (15 rounds) 1dc in each stitch. (14)

18 – *2dctog, then 5dc.* Work ** 2 times. (12)

19- *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work **4 times. (8)

20 – *2dctog.* Work ** 4 times. (4)

Now fasten off and sew up the end of the leg with your needle. This would be a good time to stuff the body and the leg you have just made, with your toy stuffing.

Leg 2 –

Now we are going to work the rest of the 14 stitches from the original round.

1 – So insert your hook into the first dc stitch.

Now chain 1 and work the first 1dc stitch. Then work 13 more dc stitches, to complete the first round in leg 2.

2 – Work 1dc in each stitch. You can see in the photo below where the first dc stitch in the round is. (14)

3 – 17 (15 rounds) 1dc in each stitch. (14)

18 – *2dctog, then 5dc.* Work ** 2 times. (12)

19- *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work **4 times. (8)

Don’t forget to stuff your leg with toy stuffing here.

20 – *2dctog.* Work ** 4 times then ss into the next stitch and fasten off leaving a tail to sew up your leg. (4)

Now it’s time to sew up the leg with the tail of yarn and fasten off

Arms – make 2

1 – Start by making a magic ring and chain 1. Now work 6dc into the ring. (6)

2 – Now work 2dc into each stitch. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – 5 (2 rounds) Work 1dc into each stitch. (18)

6 – Ok so now work *1dc, then 2dctog.* Repeat ** 6 times. (12)

7 – 25 (19 rounds) Work 1dc into each stitch. (12)

26 – Ok so now work *1dc, then 2dctog.* Repeat ** 4 times. Then ss into the next stitch and fasten off leaving a tail so that you can sew your arm onto the body. (8)

Now it’s time to stuff your hand and a little of the arm with toy stuffing. You can use the end of your crochet hook to push the stuffing in.

Head –

1 – Now make a magic ring, chain 1 and then work 6dc stitches into the ring. (6)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – *3dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

6 – 7 (2 rounds) 1dc in each stitch. (30)

8 – *4dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

9 – 10 (2 rounds) 1dc in each stitch. (36)

11 – *5dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (42)

12 – 1dc in each stitch. (42)

13 – *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

14 – Work *2dctog.* Repeat this ** 6 times. Then work 24dc stitches. (30)

15 – Work *2dctog.* Repeat this ** 6 times. Then work 18dc stitches. (24)

16 – 17 (2 rounds) 1dc in each stitch. (24)

18 – Work *2dctog.* Repeat this ** 6 times. Then work 12dc stitches. (18)

19 – 21 (3 rounds) 1dc in each stitch. (18)

22 – Work *2dctog.* Repeat this ** 6 times. Then work 6dc stitches. (12)

23 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

Now it’s time to stuff your head.

24 – Work *2dctog.* Repeat ** 6 times. (6)

Now ss into the next stitch, fasten off and sew up the head.

Large horn –

1 – Chain 12 and slip stitch to make a ring.

2 – Now work 1dc in each chain. (12)

3 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

4 – Work *2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. Now work 8dc. (10)

5 – Work *2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. Now work 6dc. (8)

6 – Work -*2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. Now work 4dc. (6)

7 – Work *2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (3)

Now it’s time to fasten off, stuff your horn and sew up the top of your horn and then weave the yarn back to the bottom of the horn ready to be sewn onto the head of the rhino.

Small horn

1 – Chain 6 and slip stitch to make a ring. (6)

2 – Work 1dc in each chain. (6)

3 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (6)

4 – Work *2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (3)

Now it’s time to fasten off, stuff your horn and sew up the top of your horn and then weave the yarn back to the bottom of the horn ready to be sewn onto the head of the rhino.

Ears – Make 2

1 – Make a magic ring, ch1, then 6dc into the ring. Then pull the tail tight to create the magic ring. (6)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (12) 

4 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (9)

5 – 6 (2 rounds) 1dc in each. (9)

7 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. (6)

Now ss into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a tail so that you can sew it onto the head. 

Sewing Up –

So now that you have all your body parts, it’s time to sew all your bits together. Best to start with the arms. As you are sewing them on, just keep checking your alignment.

Then sew on the head, followed by the ears. Then finally finish with the horns.

So for the tail, use your dark grey yarn. Attach your yarn by inserting your hook and pulling it through.

Now chain 10.

Now work 1dc in each of the chain stitches and fasten off and sew in your ends to the body. Now use your light grey yarn, attach to the end of your tail, by inserting into the last stitch and *chain 4, then attaching it back into the same dc stitch*. Repeat this ** 2 times. This will make 3 little loops. Then fasten off and sew in your end into the tail.

Finally sew on your little eyes and eyebrows with your bit of black yarn.

And there we have it. Your little Rhino. I hope you have enjoyed this birthday pattern. Any questions or queries please feel free to give us a shout!

Don’t forget to share your creations – can’t wait to see your little rhinos!

Can I just take this opportunity to say a huge thank you for following me! I hope you are enjoying my rainbow ride of yarny loveliness! It means so much that you are with me and I hope to bring you lots of crocheting wonderful fun in the years to come.

Thanks guys!!

Happy Hooking!!

🌈Xx

(Free pattern designed and brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it. ☺️Xx)

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