Face Mask Attachment

Hello all, hope you are all staying home and staying safe. Feels like we have been in lockdown for a long time now. Days definitely seem to be flying by – never a dull moment in our house!
So I thought I would make these little face mask attachments to help our NHS Heroes. I know they are all struggling with sore ears when they are wearing face masks for so many hours a day.

Now I’ve have seen that people have been making them, so thought we need a few rainbow ones in the mix. Thought it would help them know how much we are thinking of them & appreciate how hard they are working! So here is my pattern for a rainbow and a plain coloured face mask attachment, if you want a simpler one to make up. Hope you like the pattern. Once you have made a few, you just need to deliver them to someone you know that works in the NHS and they can distribute them accordingly. Even if you only make a couple, it will help someone. You just need to remember to use cotton yarn so that they can be washed at high temperatures with their uniform and make sure the buttons are attached securely.
Any problems just give me a shout.

Level – Easy

Supplies –

So these little mask attachments only use about 5g of yarn. I have used a 4mm crochet hook and some Double Knit Cotton yarn. (It must be cotton so that the attacher can be washed with their uniform at a high temperature.) You will also need some scissors, blunt ended needle and 2 buttons with thread to sew the buttons on.

Stitches –

Slip Stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Chain stitch (ch) – To make a chain, place the yarn over the hook then pull it through the loop on your hook.

Slip Knot – Fold over the yarn to make the loop. Insert your hook through the loop and grab the working yarn (long piece) and pull through the loop. Hold the tail and the working yarn and pull so that the knot tightens, but you still have a loop. Then insert your hook and pull the tail tight to create a slip knot.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

PipsTips –

Changing colour. When you need to change a colour, you work your new yarn into the last stitch of the last round. So here I am changing colour from green to blue. I have worked the second to last stitch in the green round and also I have worked the first part of the last stitch. So I am basically working the blue yarn through the last yarn over and pull through two loops in the double crochet stitch. You can see I have looped the blue yarn over the hook and then you need to pull both the green and blue yarn through the last 2 loops. 

Ok, so now that you have finished the green yarn round, you can now fasten that off and just use the blue yarn.

Ok so here goes…

Rainbow Face Mask Attachment –

Using your green start by making a slip knot then chaining 17.

1 – Then miss a chain and work 2dc in the next chain.

Work 1dc in the next 14 chains up the one side, followed by 2dc in the next chain. In the last 1dc, change your colour to blue. Now with your blue yarn turn your work, miss the first chain and work 2dc in the next chain. Then 1dc in the next 14 chains finishing the round with 2dc in the last chain. In the last dc stitch change to yellow yarn. (36) 

2 – Pop a yarn stitch maker over the stitch so that you can count your rounds.

With your yellow yarn work 2dc in the next 2 stitches. Then 14dc stitches, followed by 2dc in the next 2 stitches. In the last 1dc change colour to blue again. Then with your blue yarn work 2dc in the next 2 stitches. Finally 14dc stitches and finish off with 2dc in the next 2 stitches. In the last dc stitch change to orange yarn. (44) 

3 – With your orange yarn work 2dc in the next 2 stitches. Then 18dc stitches, followed by 2dc in the next 2 stitches. In the last 1dc change colour to purple. Then with your purple yarn work 2dc in the next 2 stitches. Finally 18dc stitches and finish off with 2dc in the next 2 stitches. In the last stitch change to red yarn. (52) 

4 – With your red yarn, work 2dc in the next 2 stitches. Then 22dc stitches, followed by 2dc in the next 2 stitches. In the last 1dc change colour to pink. Then work 2dc in the next 2 stitches. Finally work 22dc stitches and finishing off with 2dc in the next 2 stitches. Finally slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off your yarn. (60) 

Now all you need to do is sew your ends using your blunt ended tapestry needle.

Finally block your work so that it keeps its shape. To do this all you need to do is wet your work and then smooth with your hands and pin it in place on a foam mat over night. This will give a much neater end product and ensure all those little ends stay firmly in place.

Finally sew on 2 buttons securely at either end of the mask attacher.

And there you have it. Here is the pattern for the plain coloured face mask attachment. It’s definitely a simpler pattern to follow and as you can imagine, they are definitely a little quicker to crochet up. Don’t forget you can play around with your own colours, one option is to change the colour in the last round.

Plain Coloured Mask Attacher –

1 – Start by chaining 17. Then miss a chain and work 2dc in the next chain. Work 1dc in the next 14 chains up the one side, followed by 2dc in the next chain. Now miss the first chain and work 2dc in the next chain. Then 1dc in the next 14 chains finishing the round with 2dc in the last chain. (36) 

2 – Pop a yarn stitch maker over the stitch and work 2dc in the next 2 stitches. Then 14dc stitches, followed by 2dc in the next 4 stitches. Finally work 14dc stitches and finishing off with 2dc in the next 2 stitches. (44) 

3 – Work 2dc in the next 2 stitches. Then 18dc stitches, followed by 2dc in the next 4 stitches. Finally work 18dc stitches and finishing off with 2dc in the next 2 stitches. (52) 

4 – Work 2dc in the next 2 stitches. Then 22dc stitches, followed by 2dc in the next 4 stitches. Finally work 22dc stitches and finishing off with 2dc in the next 2 stitches. Finally slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off your yarn. (60) 

Now all you need to do is sew your 2 ends in and block it so that it keeps its shape. Finally sew on 2 buttons securely at either end of your attacher. 

And there you have it. Two different mask attachers.

Don’t forget to use cotton, as these will need to be washed at a high temperature with their uniforms.

As always, if there are any problems or queries just give me a shout.

Stay Home.

Stay Safe.

Happy Hooking guys!!
🌈Xx

(Free pattern designed and brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it. ☺️Xx)

If you are quite new to crocheting, here’s a few links to some of my videos that you may find useful.

How to work a Double Crochet.
How to Crochet – Lesson 1.
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Moomin

It’s beginning to feel a lot like Christmas. Everywhere you go…. 🎶 Awww, just the best time of year isn’t it. Time to be together. Time for fun, love and happiness. I just love it!! I think that’s why the last couple of months before Christmas I run around in some kind of crazy christmassy madness trying to get things done and make it all perfect!! I don’t think I’m the only one!! But I am trying to be more organised this year, well trying!!

So here’s my little Christmas Pattern for this year! It’s rather a special one to me, as you will see. I really hope you like it. I’ve designed my little man so that it can be made as a little toy or you can also loop a little bit of ribbon and hang it on your tree. Or even make him a pop him in a little lucky persons stocking. Couldn’t resist making a little scarf for him too! Hee hee.

So. Let’s talk Moomins…

Now, some of you may remember watching or reading Moomins as a child. I definitely did. I loved the adventures that they used to go on!! So exciting! It would transport you into another world. A world of excitement and exploration. A world where Mamamoomin would look after everyone and cook for them all. How she would open her arms and heart to all who stepped over the door step into their little tower of homey heaveness! Or maybe it was little Moomintroll himself and his little sidekick Sniff!! So when I spotted these little creatures peeping out at me from the Oxfam window in our high street, I just had to pop in and buy one of their magical books for my daughter. And of course in true PipsRainbow style, I couldn’t wait to design a little crocheted Moomin!! Well, it just had to be done didn’t it!!

Ok, so here we go…

Supplies –
So for this pattern your will need 1 ball of white 50g double knit yarn, just a small bit of light black yarn and a small bit of black thread for the eyes as well. Then you need a spot of red double knit yarn for the scarf. You will also need some scissors, toy stuffing, blunt ended tapestry needle and a 3mm crochet hook. 

Stitches –
Magic Ring (mr) – For a magic ring, make a loop with the yarn, leaving a tail. (Make sure the tail is under the working yarn.) Now insert your hook into the loop, from the front to the back. Wrap the working yarn around your hook and pull the yarn through and pull tight to create a ring.

Slip stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Double Crochet Decrease (2dctog) – This is where you crochet two stitches together to decrease the amount of stitches in the round. So insert the hook through the front of the first stitch only (the front V) and then insert again through the front of the second stitch (the front V). Now yarn over your hook and pull it back through both stitches, so you will then have 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over your hook again and pull through both loops. And there is your 2dctog. (Basically 2 double crochet stitches crocheted together.)

Spike Stitch – So to work your first spike stitch, you are going to work 1dc in the row below. So insert your hook through the dc stitch in the row below, yarn over your hook and then pull back through. (It will be easier if you work this loop up loosely) Now finish your stitch by yarn over your hook and pull through both loops. And that’s your first spike stitch.

Back Loop Double Crochet (bldc) – It just means you only work your double crochet in the back loop only, not through both loops like a normal double crochet.

Head –

1 – Make a magic ring, chain 1, then dc6 into the ring. Then pull the tail tight to create the first round. (6)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – 1dc in each stitch. (24)

6 – *2dctog* Repeat this ** 6 times. Then work 12dc stitches. (18)

7 – 8 (2 rounds) 1dc in each stitch. (18)

9 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

10 – 12 (3 rounds) 1dc in each stitch. (12)

This is a good time to stuff your head.

13 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 4 times. (8)

14 – *2dctog* Repeat ** 4 times. (4)

Now fasten off and sew up the head, leaving a tail for you to sew the head onto the body.

Ears – Make 2

1 – Make a magic ring, ch1, then 4dc into the ring. Then pull the tail tight to create the magic ring. (4)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 4 times. (8)

3 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. (6) 

4 – *2dctog.* Repeat ** 3 times and fasten off, leaving a tail to sew your ears onto your head. (3)

Body –

1 – Make a magic ring, chain 1, then dc6 into the ring. Then pull the tail tight to create the first round. (6)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – *3dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

6 – *4dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

7 – 1dc in each stitch. (36)

8 – *4dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (30)

9 – 1dc in each stitch. (30)

10 – *2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. Then 18dc stitches. (24)

11 – 13 (3 rounds) 1dc in each stitch. (24)

14 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

15 – 1dc in each stitch. (18)

16 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

17 – 1dc in each stitch. (12)

Now it’s time to stuff your body with toy stuffing.

18 – *2dctog* Repeat ** 6 times. (6)

Now sew up and fasten off your body using a blunt ended tapestry needle.

Legs – Make 2

1 – Make a magic ring, ch1, then 4dc into the ring. Then pull the tail tight to create the magic ring. (4)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 4 times. (8)

3 – Work 1bldc in each stitch. A bldc is a back loop double crochet. It just means you only work your double crochets in the back loop only, not through both loops like a normal double crochet. (8)

4 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (8) 

5 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. (6) 

6 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (6)

Then fasten off and leave a tail so you can sew the legs onto the body.

Arms – Make 2

1 – Make a magic ring, ch1, then 4dc into the ring. Then pull the tail tight to create the magic ring. (4)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 4 times. (8)

3 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (8) 

4 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. (6) 

5 – 8 (4 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (6)

Then fasten off and leave a tail so you can sew the arms onto the body.

And there you have it. All your body parts. Now it’s time to sew all your body parts together. I tend to sew on the arms to the body and then the legs. Followed by the head and then the ears.

Follow this by using your black yarn to sew on two little eyes and then the eyebrows. Then use the black thread to sew a little circle around the black eyes that you have already made. I used a back stitch to do this as it creates a solid circle. These eyes are quite distinctive for a Moomin.

Now all you need to do is make the scarf.

Scarf –

1 – Start with your white yarn and make a foundation chain of 31. Now work 1dc into the second chain from the hook and then 1dc in each stitch in the foundation chain. Now fasten off your white yarn. (30)

2 – Now attach your red yarn in the first chain on the other side of the foundation chain. Now work 1spike stitch in the first dc stitch. Then work 1spike stitch in each stitch in the row. At the end of the row, turn your scarf and work 1dc in the first dc stitch. Then work 1dc in each stitch. Now fasten off and sew in your ends. The mix of dc stitches, chain stitches and spike stitches, gives you a great little stripy texture.

And there you have it. I couldn’t resist getting this magical book for my little lady for Christmas! Can’t wait to read it to her!!

Now don’t forget, if you would like to make this little Moomintroll into a Christmas decoration, then just loop a little ribbon in the top of the body to hang him on your Christmas tree. He’s definitely the perfect size to snuggle up on your tree, waiting for someone to find him.

I hope you have enjoyed this Christmas pattern. I remember having great fun designing him. I wonder if you could make the whole family of them. Now that would be good…

Don’t forget to share any little creations! Can’t wait to see them!!!

Happy Hooking!!

🌈Xx

(Free pattern brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it.)

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