There is something very comforting about a little Christmas stocking hanging on a tree. I’m not sure what it is, but it seems to fill me with a belly full of wonder and some serious Christmas joy. Anything made in a miniature form is always decidedly cute, isn’t it. The fact that they are a mini version of a rather comforting cosy tootsie warmer, is what makes you feel all gooey inside. So I couldn’t resist creating these. They only use 5g of yarn, so perfect to work up quickly. You can use any 4ply yarn that you like. It’s a great way to use up any little bits of yarn you have lying around or would even be nice to make it in your favourite sock yarn. If you aren’t yet a sock crocheter, this is a great introduction into the world of crocheting socks! As it is so small, it will teach you the basics and show you how a crocheted sock is created.
For my little Christmas stockings, I couldn’t resist making them with Abby’s little Christmas bauble yarn. Have you seen them? They are just adorable. My friend and I both decided that they were possibly too adorable to use. But then we figured out, if we use one for a stocking and then put the other on the Christmas tree till Christmas Eve, then you would have the best of both worlds.
One bauble will make two little stockings, so a lovely way to make a pair for someone or even keep one for yourself and give one to a precious other. Maybe someone you can’t spend Christmas with. I know our Christmas is going to be rather different this year, but we will try and make it all the more special for our little family of four.
Anyways, here’s the link to Abby’s Christmas baubles if you would like to make one with them.
So in true, let’s get making for Christmas mode, here is the little stocking pattern. It’s ever so easy to make and something that you could add to someone’s gift as a little bit of Christmas cheer. I did think they could be filled with chocolate coins. I know my own children seem to have a serious attachment to chocolate coins! Not sure why. I think it’s the glistening gold wrapper and the marvel and wonder of what it holds inside. When my Dad plays trains with my son, he tends to sneak one or two in the train carriages, knowing that they will be found by a little boy whose eyes will light up & cheeky grin will appear when he finds them. Bless him. We even managed to do a safe train playing session in lockdown once. Where safe distance was kept and outside train track play occurred. Oh my, if you described to someone a year ago, what we do now to cope with a pandemic, they would just think you were bonkers!!! Heyho. One day…
So here is my little Christmas stocking pattern. I really hope you like it.
Just a little thought, if you are super new to crocheting, there are lots of beginner videos on my you tube channel. These will all help you with the basics to crocheting. Just click on the You Tube icon above.
Level – Medium – It has a few tricky parts, but is a great introduction for anyone that would like to crochet socks.
Stitches –
Slip stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. Insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. Yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.
Chain (ch) – To make a chain, place the yarn over the hook then pull it through the loop on your hook.
Double Crochet (dc) – To make a double crochet, insert hook through your stitch/space, yarn over hook and pull through the stitch. You should have 2 loops on your hook, now yarn over hook and pull through both loops on your hook.
Double Crochet Decrease – (2dctog) – This is where you crochet two stitches together to decrease the amount of stitches in the round. Insert the hook through the front of the first stitch only (the front V) and then insert hook through the front of the second stitch (the front V). Yarn over your hook and pull it back through both stitches. There will now be 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over your hook again and pull through both loops to complete your 2dctog.
Treble (tr) – To make a treble crochet, firstly yarn over your hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over your hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should now be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through the first two loops, yarn over hook and pull through the last two loops.
Half Treble Crochet (htr) – A half treble crochet is basically one less movement than a treble. So yarn over hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through all 3 loops.
Supplies –
You will need 5g of any 4ply yarn for the main stocking part and then a little bit of cream/white yarn for the top. (It doesn’t have to be sock yarn!!) You will also need a 3.25mm crochet hook, some scissors, a blunt ended tapestry needle and a bit of yarn to use as a stitch marker.
If you haven’t got any 4ply cream or white yarn for the top, you could use a spot of double knit yarn, it would just look a lovely fluffier or even a different coloured yarn.
PipsTips – You can make your little stocking using Double Knit or Aran yarn too. Just alter your hook size to a 4mm hook for Double Knit and 5mm hook for Aran.
P.S – Don’t forget to use your yarn stitch marker so that you know where your rounds start and finish.
Ok so here we go …
Toe –
1 – Start by chaining 5.
Then work 1dc into the 2nd chain from the hook and each of the remaining 3 chains. (4) You are now going to be working on the other side of the 5 chain stitches. Miss the first chain, as before and work 1dc into each of the 4 chains. The needle in the photo below, shows where to work your first stitch.
(Don’t forget to use a yarn stitch marker, so you know where the round starts. (8)
2 – Work 2dc in the first stitch. Followed by 1dc in the next. Work 2dc into the next stitch and then 1dc. Now repeat, so 2dc into the next stitch, 1dc, 2dc into the next stitch and then 1dc in the last stitch. (12)
3 – Now work *2dc in the next stitch, 3dc, 2dc in the next stitch, followed by 1dc.* Then repeat ** once more. (16)
4 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (16)
5 – Now work *2dc in the next stitch, 5dc, 2dc in the next stitch, followed by 1dc.* Then repeat ** once more. (20)
6 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (20)
7 – Now work *2dc in the next stitch, 7dc, 2dc in the next stitch, followed by 1dc.* Then repeat ** once more. (24)
8 – 12 (5 rows) Work 1dc in each stitch. (24)
Heel –
13 – Work 6dc stitches to work your way into the correct place for the heel. (If you don’t do this, the heel won’t be in line with the toe!!) Place your stitch marker, slip stitch into the next stitch and work 1dc into the same stitch. Then 8dc stitches, followed by 1htr stitch. (10)
14 – Now turn your work and chain 1. Then 1dc in each stitch. (10)
15 – 18 (4 rows) *Turn your work, chain 1 and work 1dc into the first stitch and then work 1dc into each stitch except for the last stitch.* Repeat this ** 3 more times. By the end of these 4 rows, you will only have 6 stitches. (6)
19 – Now turn your work and chain 1, then 1dc in the first stitch. The work 1dc into each stitch in the row. (6)
20 – Turn your work, chain 1 and work 1dc into each stitch in the row. Slip stitch into side of the row below. (This is where the needle is pointing.)
Then work 1dc into the last unworked stitch of the row below. (This is where the needle is pointing.) (8)
21 – *Turn your work, chain 1 and then miss the chain stitch and the next stitch. (The needle is pointing to where you need to start.)
Work 1dc into the rest of the stitches. Now slip stitch into the side of the row below and then work 1dc into the last unworked stitch of the row below.* (Sometimes it’s hard to work out where the slip stitch in the side of the row goes, but it’s basically the side of the row just above the unworked stitch.) (9)
22 – 23 (2 rows) Repeat this ** from row above 2 more times. (11)
24 – In the last row, turn your work, chain 1. Now as before, miss the chain stitch and next stitch. Then work 1dc in each stitch, finally slip stitching in the side of rows. (This is where the needle is pointing.)
Then work 1dc stitch in the first stitch you made for the heel. (This is where the needle is pointing.) (12)
Leg –
25 – Now you are back at the beginning again. Turn your work and place your yarn stitch marker.
Chain 1 and work 1dc into the first stitch and the slip stitch, then continue working 1dc in the all of the stitches in the heel. (12) Now slip stitch in the side of the rows, as before. (This is where the needle is pointing.)
Then work 1dc in the last stitch of the heel. (This is where the needle is pointing.)
Now work 1dc in the next 14 stitches. Your first stitch should go where the needle is pointing.
That completes the first round of the leg. (28)
26 – Now work 1dc in each stitch in the round. (The needle shows where to work your first stitch.) (28)
27 – Work 2dctog, then 12dc, then 2dctog, then 12dc. (26)
28- Work 1dc in each stitch. (26)
29 – Then work 2dctog, 11dc, 2dctog, 11dc. (24)
30 – Now work 1dc in each stitch. (24)
31 – Work 2dctog, 10dc, 2dctog, 10dc. (22)
32 – 37 (6 rounds) Work 1dc in each for the 6 rounds. If you want the top of your stocking to be a different colour, then change your yarn in the last stitch in round 37. (22)
38 – Now slip stitch into the next stitch and then chain 3. Then work 1tr in the first stitch and then 1tr in each stitch in the round. (22)
39 – Slip stitch into the first stitch, chain 1, then work 1dc in the first stitch, followed by 1dc in each stitch in the round. (22)
Finally slip stitch in the next stitch and fasten off.
All you need to do now is sew your ends in, block your stocking and add a ribbon to attach your little stocking to your tree. To block your work, you just need to wash it in warm soapy water and set it using your hands and let them dry. (If you are ensure about blocking then click on the video below and how to block your work.)
Another possibility is to make a bundle of these little guys and attach them to some plaited yarn to create a Christmas garland or even use as an advent calendar for someone special.
Well good luck. Really hope you enjoy this little pattern. I seem to be making a rainbow garland of them at the moment. Will share a photo of them when I am done.
Don’t forget to share pictures of your little Christmas stockings. Can’t wait to see any creations you have made!! You can always link it to @pipsrainbow. Any questions, just give me a shout.
Happy hooking everyone.
🌈 Xx
(Free pattern designed and brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it. ☺️Xx)
Well, who would have thought! It’s our 3rd Birthday of PipsRainbow!! Three whole years!! Can’t quite believe it. Wow!! The usual thoughts of where has that time gone. Bonkers!! Can I just take this opportunity to thank you all for following and supporting me!! You really can’t know how much it means to me!! So so thankful to you all.
Three years ago today, I launched PipsRainbow. I had no idea where it would take me or what it would develop into. The main aim from the word go was to help others to enjoy crocheting as much as I do. To help them to have their own little rainbow ride of yarn & colour, to be able to create wonderful things with ease and to be part of a world wide community of crocheters.
I reckon I am definitely on track with that ethos & still hope to inspire many more to have a go. The best part of PipsRainbow Year 3 is the fact that my daughter is now properly knitting and crocheting. She has always shared my love of all things rainbowy and yarny, but now that she can create herself, is just an all time different level of happiness in our house. So chuffed for her. Bless her. (Knitting before school – well why not!)
With all of these uncertain times, I feel it is even more important to have something that you enjoy doing. Something that can take your mind off things and concentrate on something positive. To be able to sit and create whilst chilling with your family, is such a wonderful thing. To keep those hands warm in the winter and to create woolly lovely socks to keep your tootsies warm too! It’s just a joy. And it’s also good to challenge yourself! And take pride in what you can achieve. I finally taught myself how to knit socks on circular needles!! Can’t tell you how chuffed I am with them and it’s true what they say, it’s totally addictive!! Can’t wait to get going with another pair!
Ironically, this must be the only PipsRainbow birthday that I can’t even crochet or knit on. Had a silly injection in my shoulder & not supposed to move it for a bit. So I’m guessing I will just have to drool over all the lovely yarn in my stash in the hope that I can start up again soon. The need to do something yarny wasn’t helped when one of Abby’s yummy bundles arrived on the door step today from Orchidean Luxury Yarns! Yum!!!! Or the magical Double Rainbow Sock yarn from the wonderful Liz at Yarn Badger that landed on the door mat too. Or even the rainbow splendidness of the double knit speckled rainbow yarn for my daughter’s birthday from the incredible Jodi at Cuddlebums Yarn that zoomed through the letterbox!! But hey. I can just dream for this week and keep them safe till I can. Serious sad face here!
Crocheting & Knitting for me gives me the ability to be able to make and create for others. Something that I just adore doing. Yesterday I shared my daughter’s rainbow cabbage patch blanket pattern with you all. She loves snuggling up underneath its warm and cosy magicalness.
I still owe my son his! He carries around the bag of wool around the house, just to remind me that I still need to make it for him! Ekk! Think I had better get on to that one!
Well here’s to another year of crocheting, yarny love, rainbow heaveness, fun and above all keeping happy and healthy. Stay home, stay safe, be together & just keep on crocheting and knitting!
Well on that note, I would like to introduce you to my wonderful little Coco. Every year on the PipsRainbow birthday, I publish a pattern. Year one was Uni the Unicorn, Year two was Alan the Rhino. So this year it just had to be a little Coco the Dachshund Dog.
Coco is a very special little pup. She has real character and spirit and the silkiest of doggy coats that ever there was. She lives with a very special family who are so so dear to us. They mean so much to us and their dear little Coco, that I just knew I had to share my little Coco with you all. She is quite small in size, but will definitely let you know she is there if she wants to. She loves little doggy treats and lots of cuddles, but her favourite place is snuggled up on her Mummy’s lap at the end of a long and tiring day. Definitely one snuggly little pouch.
So let’s get started with dear little Coco.
Level – Medium, is a little bit fiddly with all do the colour changes.
Supplies –
So for little Coco you will need 50g of dark brown and 50g of light brown double knit yarn. You also need about 20g of cream yarn for the back legs. You will also need a 3mm crochet hook, some toy stuffing, scissors, a blunt ended tapestry needle and some safety eyes and backs. There is also an option to use a safety nose like I have done, but if not you will just need some black yarn to sew a little nose on your dog.
PipsTips –
When crocheting a toy, always use a smaller crochet hook than usually stated on the yarn. This will ensure that your toy stuffing won’t show through!
Stitches –
Slip Stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.
Chain stitch (ch) – To make a chain, place the yarn over the hook then pull it through the loop on your hook.
Magic Ring – Fold over the yarn to make the loop. Insert your hook through the loop and grab the working yarn (long piece) and pull through the loop. Hold the tail and the working yarn and pull so that the knot tightens, but you still have a loop. This has created a magic ring.
Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.
Double Crochet Decrease (2dctog) – This is where you crochet two stitches together to decrease the amount of stitches in the round. So insert the hook through the front of the first stitch only (the front V) and then insert again through the front of the second stitch (the front V). Now yarn over your hook and pull it back through both stitches, so you will then have 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over your hook again and pull through both loops. And there is your 2dctog. (Basically 2 double crochet stitches crocheted together.)
Treble (tr) – To make a treble crochet, firstly yarn over your hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over your hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should now be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through the first two loops, yarn over hook and pull through the last two loops.
Useful Video Clips –
Ok so let’s go…
Body
1 – Right then, so first things first, use your dark brown to make your magic ring and chain 1. (Remember if you’re unsure of how to do this, see the tutorial section or the video link above) Now work 6dc stitches into the ring itself. You can now pull the little tail to close the ring. (6)
(Don’t forget to use your stitch marker to ensure you know where your rounds start and end.)
2 – Now work *2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)
3 – Work *1dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. In your last stitch, change to your light brown yarn. (18)
You can see below how I am grabbing both yarns in the last part of the last stitch.
Then completing the stitch by pulling both yarns through the last loop.
4 – *2dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 2 times and then change to your dark brown in the last stitch. Now work *2dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 4 times in your dark brown yarn. Then change back to light brown in your last stitch. (24)
5 – *3dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 2 times and then change to your dark brown in the last stitch. Now work *3dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 4 times in your dark brown yarn. Then change back to light brown in your last stitch. (30)
6 – *4dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 2 times and then change to your dark brown in the last stitch. Now work *4dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 4 times in your dark brown yarn. (36)
7 – Continuing in your dark brown work *5dc, then 2dc into next stitch. Work ** 6 times. (42)
8 – 11 (4 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (42)
12 – Work *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (36)
13 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (36)
14 – *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (30)
15 – 18 (4 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (30)
19 – *3dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (24)
20 – 24 (5 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (24)
25 – *3dc, then 2dc in the next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)
26 – 27 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (30)
28 – *4dc, then 2dc in the next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)
29 – *5dc, then 2dc in the next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (42)
30 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (42)
31 – *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (36)
32 – *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (30
33 – *3dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (24)
34 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (18)
This is a good time to stuff your body with toy stuffing.
35 – *1dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (12)
36 – *2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (6)
Now it’s time to slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off your yarn, leaving a tail for you to sew up your body. Sew up the hole using your blunt ended tapestry needle.
Front legs – make 2
1 – With your light brown make a magic ring and chain 1. Now work 4dc stitches into the ring itself and pull the little tail to close the ring. (4)
2 – *Work 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 4 times. Now slip stitch into the next stitch. (8)
3 – Now ch5 then 2dc into the second chain from hook. Now work 1dc into next 3 chains. Now you are back into the main round. Then work 1dc in the next 2 stitches. Now work 2dc into next 4 stitches, followed by 2dc, 1dc into the other side of the 3 chains and finish with 2dc in last chain. (22)
4 – In this round work 2dc in the next stitch, then 8dc, 2dc in the next stitch, 2dc, 2dc in next stitch, 8dc and finish the round with 2dc in next stitch. (26)
5 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (26)
6 – In this round work 6dc, then dc2tog, followed by 10dc, dc2tog and finish with 6dc. (24)
7 – In this round work 4dc, dc2tog, 3dc, dc2tog, 4dc, dc2tog and finish with 7dc. (21)
8 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 7 times. (14)
9 – *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. (12)
10 – 16 (7 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. In the last part of the last stitch, change to your dark brown yarn. (12)
17 – 21 (4 rounds) Using your dark brown work 6dc stitches, changing back to your light brown yarn in the last part of the 6th stitch. Then work 6dc stitches, changing back to your dark brown in the last part of the last stitch. (12)
22 – Using your light brown work 6dc stitches, changing back to your dark yarn in the last part of the 6th stitch. Then work 6dc stitches. (12)
23 – With your dark brown yarn work 1dc in each stitch. (12)
Slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off your yarn, leaving a tail for you to sew the leg on to the body. Don’t forget to stuff your foot and leg. Make sure you use enough stuffing, so that all the four legs will support the body and Coco will then stand up.
Back Legs – make 2
1 – With your light brown yarn make your magic ring and chain 1. Now work 4dc stitches into the ring itself and pull the little tail to close the ring. (4)
2 – *Work 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 4 times. Now slip stitch into the next stitch. (8)
3 – Now ch5 then work 2dc into the second chain from hook. Now work 1dc into next 3 chains. Now you are back into the main round. Then work 1dc in the next 2 stitches. Now work 2dc into next 4 stitches, 2dc, 1dc into the other sides of the 3 chains and finish with 2dc in last chain. (22)
4 – In this round work 2dc in the next stitch, then 8dc, 2dc, 2dc in next stitch, 8dc and finish the round with 2dc in last stitch. (26)
5 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (26)
6 – In this round work 6dc, then dc2tog, followed by 10dc, dc2tog and finish with 6dc. (24)
7 – Work 4dc, dc2tog, 3dc, dc2tog, 4dc, dc2tog and finish with 7dc. (21)
8 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 7 times. (14)
9 – *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. (12)
10 – 13 (4 rounds) Work 1dc in each. In the last part of the last stitch, change to your cream yarn. (12)
14 – Using your cream yarn work 3dc stitches, changing back to your light brown yarn in the last part of the 3rd stitch. Then work 9dc stitches in the light brown, changing back to your cream in the last part of the last stitch. (12)
15 – Work 5dc in your cream stitch, changing to your light brown yarn in the last part of the last stitch. Then work 7dc stitches in your light brown yarn, changing to cream in the last part of your last stitch. (12)
16 – Work 5dc in your cream yarn, changing to your light brown yarn in the last part of the last stitch. Then work 4dc stitches in your light brown yarn, changing to your dark brown yarn in the last part of your last stitch, then work the last 3dc stitches, changing to your cream in the last part of the last stitch. (12)
17 – Work 5dc in your cream stitch, changing to your light brown yarn in the last part of the last stitch. Then work 4dc stitches in your light brown yarn, changing to dark brown in the last part of your last stitch, then work the last 3dc stitches, changing to your cream in the last part of the last stitch. (12)
18 – Work 5dc in your cream yarn, changing to your light brown yarn in the last part of the last stitch. Then work 2dc stitches in your light brown yarn, changing to dark brown in the last part of your last stitch, then work the last 5dc stitches, changing to your light brown in the last part of the last stitch. (Fasten off your cream yarn, as you won’t need to use it anymore in the leg.) (12)
19 – 20 (2 rounds) Work 5dc in your light brown stitch, changing to your dark brown yarn in the last part of the last stitch. Then work the last 7dc stitches, changing to your light brown in the last part of the last stitch. (12)
21 – Work 4dc in your light brown stitch, changing to your dark brown yarn in the last part of the last stitch. Then work the last 8dc stitches, changing to your light brown in the last part of the last stitch. (12)
22 – Work 4dc in your light brown stitch, changing to your dark brown yarn in the last part of the last stitch. Then work the last 8dc stitches in your dark brown yarn. (12)
23 – With your dark brown yarn, work 1dc in each stitch. (12)
Slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off your yarn, leaving a tail for you to sew the leg on to the body. Don’t forget to stuff your foot and leg. Make sure you use enough stuffing, so that all the four legs will support the body and Coco will then stand up.
Tail –
1 – With you dark brown yarn, chain 12 and join with a ss to make a circle. (12)
2 – Work 1dc in each chain stitch. (12)
3 – *1dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)
4 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (18)
5 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)
6 – 7 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)
8 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (9)
9 – 10 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (9)
11 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (6)
12 – 13 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (6)
14 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. (3)
Now ss into the next stitch and fasten off leaving a tail so that you can sew your tail onto your body. Don’t forget to stuff your tail at this point.
Head –
1 – With your dark brown yarn, make a magic ring and chain 1. Now work 6dc stitches into the ring itself. You can now pull the little tail to close the ring. (6)
2 – Now work *2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)
3 – *1dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)
4 – *2dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)
5 – *3dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)
6 – *4dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)
7 – 10 (4 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (36)
11 – *5dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (42)
12 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (42)
13 – *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (36)
14 – *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. In the last stitch change to your light brown yarn. Then work *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 4 times. Change back to your dark brown yarn in the last stitch. (30)
16 – *2dctog.* Repeat 6 ** times. In your last stitch change to your light brown yarn. Then work 1dc in the next 18 stitches, changing back to dark brown in the last stitch. (24)
17 – Work 1dc in the first 6 stitches, changing to your light yarn in the last stitch. Then work 1dc in the next 18 stitches, changing to your dark yarn in the last stitch. (24)
18 – In your dark brown yarn work 1dc in the first 6 stitches, changing back to your light yarn in the last stitch. Then carry on working 1dc in each stitch, changing back to your dark brown yarn in the last stitch. (24)
This would be a good time to stuff your head.
19 – Now work 1dc in the first 6 stitches, changing your yarn to your light yarn in the last stitch. Then work 1dc in the next 4 stitches, work *2dctog* repeat ** 2 times. Then work 10dc stitches, changing to your dark yarn in the last stitch. (22)
This would be a good time to add your safety eyes onto your head. Make sure that you are happy with the positioning of the eyes, before you pop the backs on.
20 – 23 (4 rounds) In your dark brown yarn work 1dc in the first 6 stitches, changing back to your light yarn in the last stitch. Then carry on working 1dc in each stitch, finally changing back to your dark brown yarn in the last stitch. (22)
24 – Work 1dc in the first 6 stitches, changing to your light yarn in the last stitch. Then work 1dc in the next 2 stitches, work 2dctog. Then work 8dc stitches, then 2dctog. Followed by 2dc changing to your dark yarn in the last stitch. (20)
25 – Start by working 2dc, 2dctog, then 2dc, changing your yarn to your light yarn in the last stitch. Then work 1dc in the next 2 stitches, work 2dctog. Then work 6dc stitches, followed by 2dctog. Then 2dc stitches, changing to your dark yarn in the last stitch. (17)
26 – Work 5dc, changing your yarn to your light yarn in the last stitch. Then work 12dc stitches changing to your dark yarn in the last stitch. (17)
Now it’s time to add that safety nose on and once again ensuring that it is aligned properly on the head. If you are sewing a yarn nose on, then skip this bit out.
27 – Start by working 1dc, 2dctog, 2dc. changing to your light yarn in the last stitch. Then work 4dc, 2dctog, 2dctog, then 4dc, changing to your dark yarn in the last stitch. (14)
28 – Finally *2dctog.* Repeat this ** 7 times. (7)
Now slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off leaving a tail. Use your yarn tail to sew up your head and then leave a tail to sew the head onto the body.
Ears – make 2
1 – Chain 12, then ss into the first chain to make a ring. (12)
2 – Work 1dc in each chain. (12)
3 – 5 (3 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)
6 – *3dc, then 2dc in next stitch.* Work ** 3 times. (15)
7 – *4dc, then 2dc in next stitch.* Work ** 3 times. (18)
8 – *5dc, then 2dc in next stitch.* Work ** 3 times. (21)
9 – *6dc, then 2dc in next stitch.* Work ** 3 times. (24)
10 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (24)
11 – *7dc, then 2dc in next stitch.* Work ** 3 times. (27)
12 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (27)
13 – *7dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (24)
14 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (24)
15 – *6dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (21)
16 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (21)
17 – *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (18)
18 – *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (15)
19 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (15)
20 – *3dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (12)
21 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (9)
22 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (6)
23 – *Work 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (3)
Finally slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off with enough yarn tail to sew the ears onto the head.
Heart Shaped Chest –
1 – Make a magic ring, ch1, then work 6dc into the ring. Then pull the tail tight. (6)
2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)
3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)
4 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)
5 – No slip stitch into the first stitch and ch3. Then work 1tr in the next 7 stitches. Then work 1dc in the next 5 stitches. Then ch3 and work 1dc in the next 5 stitches and then 1tr in the next 7 stitches. Then ch3 and finally slip stitch into the bottom of the last 1tr in the round. Now fasten off leaving a tail for you to sew the heart onto the from of Coco.
Eyebrows – these are crocheted onto the finished head using your light brown yarn.
*Start by inserting your hook in where you want the eyebrow to start and then make a slip knot with your brown yarn onto your hook.
Pull the yarn through. Chain 1 which is the first stitch.
Then slip stitch across the next 3 stitches, so that you have 1 chain and 3 slip stitches. (4)
Then turn the head and work 1dc in each of these 4 slip stitches/chain stitch.
Then simply fasten off and sew in your ends.*
Repeat this ** above the other eye on the head.
Sewing Up Little Coco –
Now that you have all of your dog parts, all you need to do is sew it together.
I tend to start with the legs first, making sure that they are aligned with each other.
Then sew on the head, followed by the ears and the tail. With the ears, make sure you pinch the bottom of the ears first and work a couple of stitches through, so it pulls it together and gives it a good base. Finally see on your little heart onto the chest of your little Coco.
And there you have it. One little Coco.
I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. Thanks ever so much for following me. As always, if there are any questions then please don’t hesitate to ask. Always happy to help.
Don’t forget to share your lovely little creations with me! Can’t wait to see them.
And thank you again for all your support!!
Happy Hooking. 🌈Xx
(Free pattern designed and brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it. ☺️Xx)
