Mr Alien

Well hello my lovely ones! Happy Sunday! Hope you have all had good weekends. Ours has been filled with swims, friends, family, baking, big walks & pub lunches… oh and obviously some crocheting!! I do seem to be seeing green this week though, with Mr Alien here! I can safely say it has definitely been a green week. It started with a certain little Mini Crochet Designer No1 spying a rather scrummy ball of yummy yarny limey goodliness, the other day and whizzing upstairs with it to design Mr Alien here. Bless her!! She sent me off to work straight away with my crochet hook and yarn in tow to get making!!

I was a little bit concerned by the fact the yarn, my daughter had fallen in love with, was pure silk, hand dyed from the amazing Abby at Luxury Yarns. But she assured me that Mr Alien would be well and truly loved, squidged and snuggled forever. So he just had to be made, didn’t he. Not sure if it’s sacrilage or genius to use this silk yarn, but it worked up a treat!!

Unfortunately, for my daughter, my son took a shine to little Ali, as he calls him, so I soon realised Number 2 needed to be made!! I’ve never whipped up a design so quick!! He kept grabbing hers for his nap time, so I could see that bedtime tears could occur, if there wasn’t two!!

This probably is why I was seeing green all week!! So thought I had better share this pattern with you guys. It’s a pretty easy pattern to do, just a few different stitches here and there. Hope you like it.

My little limey ball of loveliness came out of this little parcel of magic from Luxury Yarns. It’s my third instalment from the Ōil Yarns Club that the wonderful Abby has set up and I am loving all the new and exciting yarns and challenges that it brings me. So my parcel comprises of a skein of beautifully hand dyed yarn by Abby, a little bottle of some essential oils from the DōTERRA range and a lovely little jewel marker. The yarn is called Top of the Morning, which is such a fab name!! Definitely a nod to a certain St Patrick’s Day!! But yeah, it’s a great club if you fancy joining. You can sign up for one, two or three monthly instalments, so you can make it work for you. If you fancy a peak and are intrigued, then just follow the link below.

https://luxuryyarns.co.uk/

Level – Moderate (There are few different stitches in this pattern.)

Supplies –

Right then, so for my little alien I have used the oh so incredible hand dyed yarn from the amazing Abby Parkes over at Luxury Yarns. It is a 5ply yarn, so otherwise known as sports weight and is a size inbetween 4ply and double knit. Now if you don’t have any 5ply, then it is not a problem to use double knit weight yarn. It just means that your alien will be a little bigger than mine. You will also need a small amount of white and black double knit yarn. This is for the eyes, eyebrows and smile.

So I have used about 50g of the 5ply yarn in total, but if you are using double knit yarn, I would use about 100g. You will also need some toy stuffing, scissors, a 3mm crochet hook and a blunt ended tapestry needle. Oh and a little bit of scrap yarn for your stitch marker.

(If you use double knit yarn instead of 5ply, it is still fine to use a 3mm hook.)

Stitches –

Magic Ring – Fold over the yarn to make the loop. Insert your hook through the loop and grab the working yarn (long piece) and pull through the loop. Hold the tail and the working yarn and pull so that the knot tightens, but you still have a loop. This has created a magic ring.

Slip stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Chain (ch) – To make a chain, place the yarn over the hook then pull it through the loop on your hook.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Double Crochet Decrease (2dctog) – This is where you crochet two stitches together to decrease the amount of stitches in the round. So insert the hook through the front of the first stitch only (the front V) and then insert again through the front of the second stitch (the front V). Now yarn over your hook and pull it back through both stitches, so you will then have 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over your hook again and pull through both loops. And there is your 2dctog. (Basically 2 double crochet stitches crocheted together.)

Back Loop Double Crochet – (bldc) This is the same as a double crochet stitch, but the difference is that it is only worked in the back loop of the stitch.

Back Loop Decrease – (2bldctog) So this is the same as a 2dctog stitch, but again you only work it in the back loops of the stitch.

Ok so here we go…

1 – Right then, so first things first, make your magic ring and chain 1. (Remember if you’re unsure of how to do this, see the tutorial section.) Now work 6dc stitches into the chain itself. You can now pull the little tail to close the ring. (6)

2 – Now work *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – *3dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

6 – *4dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

7 – *5dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (42)

8 – *6dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (48)

9 – *7dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (54)

10 – *8dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (60)

11 – 17 (7 rounds) Work 1dc into each stitch. (60)

12 – Now work *8dc stitches, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (See the stitches section of how to work a 2dctog stitch.) (54)

13 – Now work *7dc stitches, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (48)

14 – Now work *6dc stitches, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (42)

15 – Now work *5dc stitches, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

16 – Now work *4dc stitches, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

17 – Now work *3dc stitches, then 2dctog repeat ** 6 times. (24)

18 – Now work *2dc stitches, then 2dctog repeat ** 6 times. (18)

19 – Now work *1dc stitches, then 2dctog repeat ** 6 times. (12)

This is a good time to stuff your head.

20 – 22 (3 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

23 – Work *2dctog* repeat this 6 times. (6)

Ok so now it is time to sew up your little stitches.

So when you are sewing up the stitches, you are creating the little nose. See how it has a little dip in the middle of the nose. Work this, by threading the yarn in the centre, back and forth. And it will create a little nose. Then simply fasten off and weave in your end.


Body

1 – Right then, so first things first, make your magic ring and chain 1. Now work 6dc stitches into the chain itself. You can now pull the little tail to close the ring. (6)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

4 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

5 – *5dc, then 2dc into the next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (42)

6 – *6dc, then 2dc into the next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (48)

7 – *7dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (54)

8 – 9 (2 rounds) Work 1dc into each stitch. (60)

10 – *8dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (60)

11 – *9dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (66)

12 – *10dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (72)

13 – 17 (5 pounds) Work 1dc into each stitch. (72)

18 – Now work *10dc stitches, then 2dctog* repeat ** 6 times. (66)

19 – Work 1dc into each stitch. (66)

20 – Now work *9dc stitches, then 2dctog* repeat ** 6 times. (60)

21 – 22 (2 rounds) Work 1dc into each stitch. (60)

23 – Now work *8dc stitches, then 2dctog* repeat ** 6 times. (54)

24 – 25 (2 rounds) Work 1dc into each stitch. (54)

26 – Now work *7dc stitches, then 2dctog* repeat ** 6 times. (48)

27 – 28 (2 rounds) Work 1dc into each stitch. (48)

29 – Now work *6dc stitches, then 2dctog* repeat ** 6 times. (42)

30 – 31 (2 Rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (42)

32 – Now work *5dc stitches, then 2dctog* repeat ** 6 times. (36)

33 – 34 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (36)

35 – Now work *4dc stitches, then 2dctog* repeat ** 6 times. (30)

36 – 37 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (30)

You might find this a good point to stuff your body, so that you can see the shape it is creating and make sure you get the stuffing to the bottom of the body.

38 – Now work *3dc stitches, then 2dctog* repeat ** 6 times. (24)

39 – Now work *2dc stitches, then 2dctog* repeat ** 6 times. (18)

40 – 45 (6 rounds) Work 1dc into each stitch. (18)

46 – Now work *2dctog* repeat ** 9 times. (9)

Now sew up the top stitches and fasten off leaving tail so that you can sew the body and head together.

Arms – make 2

1 – Start by making a magic ring and chain 1. Now work 6dc into the ring. (6)

2 – Now work 2dc stitches into each stitch. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – Work 1dc into each stitch. (24)

6 – Ok so now work *2dc, then 2dctog.* Repeat ** 6 times. (18)

7 – Work *1dc stitches, then 2dctog* repeat ** 6 times. (12)

8 – 29 (22 rounds) Work 1dc into each stitch. (12)

30 – Now work *2dc, then 2ctog.* Work ** 3 times. (9)

31 – Ok so finish with 1dc in each stitch. (9)

Now slip stitch and fasten off leaving a long tail so that you can sew your arms onto the body. (I haven’t stuffed my arms, but you are very welcome to, if you want a different look.)

Legs – Make 2

1 – Start by chaining 18.

Then slip stitch into the first chain you made to make a ring. This is where the arrow is pointing.

2 – Then work 1dc in each stitch. (18)

3 – Now work *2dc, then 2dc in the next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

4 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (24)

5 – Right so now work *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

6 – 7 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (18)

8 – Work *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

9 – Work *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 4 times. (8)

10 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (8)

11 – Work *1dc, then 2dc in the next stitch.* Work ** 4 times. (12)

12 – Work *2dc, then 2dc in next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

13 – 14 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (18)

15 – Now work *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

16 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

17 – Now work *2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. Follow this with 6dc stitches. (9)

18 – Work 3dc stitches. Now follow this by working *2dc into each stitch.* Work this ** 6 times. (15)

19 – Now work *2dc in the next stitch.* Work ** 3 times. Then work 12dc stitches. (18)

20 – 21 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (18)

22 – Work 6dc stitches. Now work *2dc in next stitch.* Work 6 times. Then work 6dc stitches. (24)

23 – 24 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (24)

25 – Work 9dc stitches. Then work *2dc in next stitch.* Work 6 times. Now work 9dc stitches. (30)

26 – Work 12dc stitches. Then follow this with *2dc in each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. Now finish with 12dc stitches. (36)

27 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (36)

28 – Now you are going to start decreasing, but in this round you are going to work your stitches in the back loop. This is when you work your stitches only in the back loop of the stitch. So work *4bldc then 2bldctog* Work ** 6 times. (30)

Can you see how it’s being worked in the back loop of the stitch, so it’s leaving a little ridge.

29 – Now work *3dc then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

30 – Work *2dc then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

31 – Work *1dc then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

32 – Finally, work *2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (6)

Now it’s time to sew up your feet, by sewing up the last few stitches and fasten off leaving a tail. Now weave the tail up to the top of the leg, so that you can sew it on to the body.

Here’s your two chunky little legs! Don’t forget to stuff them!!

Eyes – Make 2

Use your white yarn for these.

1 – Right then, so first things first, make your magic ring and chain 1. Now work 6dc stitches into the chain itself. You can now pull the little tail to close the ring. (6)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

Antennae – Make 2

1 – Right then, so first things first, make your magic ring and chain 1. Now work 6dc stitches into the chain itself. You can now pull the little tail to close the ring.

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – 6 (2 rounds) Now work 1dc in each stitch. (24)

7 – Now work *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

8 – Now work *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

9 – Now work *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (9)

10 – 21 (12 rounds) Now work 1dc in each stitch. (9)

Now slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off leaving a tail so that you can sew them onto your head.

Assembly! (The fun bit!!)

Right then, so you now have 1 body, 2 legs, 2 arms, 2 antennas, 2 eyes and a head. So it’s time to sew it altogether. You need to use your blunt ended tapestry needle for this.

So after many slightly wonky sewn up crocheted animals, I have come to the conclusion that the best place to start is the arms. If you attach both arms first and then the head, the whole toy seems to come together easier. Right so let’s get started.

First things first, use the tail from the top of the arms to sew each arm on to the body. I tend to sew them on about inch from the top.

When you’re sewing on the arms and legs, make sure you sew the top of the arm and the under side of it. You wouldn’t want an arm to fall off – how traumatic would that be for your little bod. 

Now it’s time for the head. Make sure you sew the head on in the correct orientation, with the little nose in the middle of the face. I know it sounds daft, but it’s not fun having to undo it all when your realise it is looking decidedly odd! You may have noticed there are no antennaes yet sewn on our head yet. This is due to the fact that they need to go on at the end of the sewing up process. (Once again, I have learnt from experience – if you sew them on before, it’s really hard to line up all the body parts i.e wonky toys!!) Make sure you really anchor it down need to make sure that you anchor it down to the body, as the antennas can make the head quite heavy.

Right now for those legs.

Sew your legs on with the same kind of technique as the arms.

Just need to make sure you keep checking the angle they are sitting at to each other and that you sew all sides of them on securely.

Right then, antennas. These definitely need to be left till one of the last parts to sew on. Again it’s all to do with alignment and how it looks at the end. Now sew your antennas in place.

Make sure you work your way around the base of each antenna.

Ok so now for the eyes. Make sure you make two of these eyes, one after the other. It is important that you have two when you come to sew them on, as you can see exactly where you want them to be placed. So to sew them on, grab the middle little tail and using your needle, just loosely sew the tail through to the other side and cut off the visible end. This will gently anchor the eye in place, which will make it easier for you to sew around the edges.

Ok, so now it’s time to sew around the edges of the eye using the long tail and your needle. I have sewn on many of these types of eyes in my time and I have found the best way is to work your way up and down in and out of each stitch. You can see in the picture below how I am coming back up through the next stitch. This will ensure the sewing on thread is hidden and will give a much neater finish to your project.

Once you have finished your first eye, I insert the needle through to the back of the head, where I make a simple knot and insert that back through to the side of the head. This will ensure that the eye is anchored properly. Now onto the second eye and sew on as before. Make sure that you keep checking the eyes are level and placed where you want them to be. Don’t be afraid to undo and start again, if it goes a little wonky!!

Ok, so now it’s time to finish the eyes and add the finishing touches with the eyebrows and mouth. Start by threading your needle with black yarn and then knotting the end. Then thread it through from the back, through the middle of the white part of the eye. The knot at the back should be small enough to fit through the middle of a stitch so that it is hidden, but be able to nestle in the stuffing to anchor the eye in place. Now finish your eyes by working little pupils on each eye, by sewing up and over a stitch. You can make these pupils as small or as big as you like.

I seem to usually go over 2 stitches and usually sew it over about 4 times.

To work the eyebrows, you can carry on using the black yarn from the eyes. So come up where you want the eyebrow to start and then literally insert it back into the stitch where you want the eyebrow to end. It’s pretty simple, but very effective. Don’t make it too big, as they can get caught and snag later on! Obviously you can make any expression you would like to, just by changing the angle of the eyebrows!

To make the smile, literally come up about two rounds under the first eye. Then over to the second eye in the same place. Now here’s the tricky part, find the middle of the smile and make a little stitch a few rounds underneath, but make sure your stitch goes over the smile. This is to ensure the mouth is anchored down.

Once again as before thread your black yarn to the back of the body, make a simple knot and then sew back through the body and cut off the end.

And there you have it! One little Mr Alien.

I really hope you have enjoyed this pattern. I have loved creating him around my daughter’s design! And loved the challenge set from my Luxury Yarns – Ōilyarns Club yarn. Big thank you to Abby for this amazing silky yarn! It’s stunning and so fun to work with!!

Really hope you enjoy making him! I wonder what different colours you make! Please share your beautiful creations. Can’t wait to see what colour combos and yarns Mr Alien can be made from.

Please let me know if you get stuck, I will endeavour to help in anyway I can.

Happy hooking!!

🌈Xx

(Free pattern designed and brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it. ☺️Xx)

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Crochet Beginner – How to Crochet

All you need to know, when starting out on your crocheting adventure!

So it’s always a bit daunting when you are starting a new hobby! It’s hard to know what to buy and what to use and what to follow. So here’s a little bit of an introduction into crocheting and how to get started. So first things first, your crochet kit. So this is my kit, which I have built up over time!

As you can see there are a lot of crochet hooks. There are all different sizes ranging from 2.5mm to 12mm. Each one is used for different weights of yarn and projects. Now to get started, I suggest you buy a 4mm hook and a 3mm hook. These are both used for Double Knit yarn which is the most commonly used yarn I would say. Once you get into crocheting, you can add to your collection. I do find this crochet kit pouch is great for keeping mine all safe and tucked up together. And obviously goes most places with me. (Something to put on your birthday list!)

So there are also different types of hooks that you can buy, from wooden, metal, plastic and then ergonomically designed ones with rubbery handles. These are the ones that I find the best, they are from a company called Clover and are so lovely to work with and can be bought from any online shop or local yarn shop. But if you don’t want to spend too much, at the beginning then, you can buy a pack of cheaper, but still comfy in your hands ones. So it’s up to you.

Now the other thing that you will find in my crochet kit are these.

These are fantastic, they are Lite Up crochet hooks. So basically crochet hooks that have a little torch at the end. It means you can crochet in the dark or in the car at night. I found them fantastically handy when you are camping or on car journeys, when you just want to carry on crocheting. They are also great for dark yarn too which is hard to work with. So definitely a great thing to add to your kit later on down the line.

So you will also need some scissors and a blunt ended tapestry needle. I find the metal ones are the best. These needles help you to sew in all those yarny ends when you finish your projects.

Other things that are handy are a little tape measure and some stitch markers, but again, they are something you add to your kit when you need them.

So just to clarify, to start off get yourself a 3mm and 4mm crochet hook, some scissors and a blunt ended tapestry needle! The crochet 4mm hook is used for normal double knit crocheting, but the 3mm hook will be used if you want to make toys with double knit yarn using the Amigurimi method (crocheting in the round.) See my tutorial on magic rings and crocheting in the round, if you are intrigued!!

Now all you need to do is buy some yarn. So there are all sorts of different types of yarn that you can use – cotton, wool, cashmere, silk, sock yarn (which is a wool/nylon mix) and acrylic to name but a few. I tend to stick with wool or wool mixes as they are great to work with and soft to use for your hands. Cotton is a great yarn to work with at the beginning, as it’s cheap and cheerful and easy to work with. King Cole Cotton Soft is a nice one to use.

If you are looking for something a bit more special but great to work with then the Sublime Cashmere/Merino Mix Wool range is fabulous.

It’s a definite go to for me. And then you have all the incredible handdyed yarns that are just out of this world. Luxury Yarns and HeyJayYarn are just a couple of my favourites.

This is from the amazingly talented Abby Parkes at Luxury Yarns, who hand dyes all her own yarn.

And this one is a beautiful sock yarn from the incredible Hannah at HeyJay Yarns.

But there are sooooo many more to choose from!! Oooo the posssiblities!!

There are also loads of magazines and books that you can get your hands on in most shops. Simply crochet is one of my favourites. But there are lots on the market. Most have lovely patterns in abs handy tutorials at the back too. And some of the books that are on the market are just incredible. Some real yarny treats to keep you busy.


Now it’s time to have a go. First things first. Slip Knots, Foundation chains and Double Crocheting. Now to start with just use some simple double knit yarn such as cotton and a 4mm crochet hook.

Once you’ve mastered these 3 elements of crocheting it’s then time to choose what you would like to make first. Something simple I would say. Anyways, hope this all makes sense and I am always here if you need any extra help.

Good luck…

Right so you can either follow the link below to a video tutorial or follow the photograph tutorial.

Video Tutorial –

https://youtu.be/NKfEaIj74Vw

Photograph Tutorial –

Slip Knot

With any crocheting you will always start with a slip knot. Whether you are starting with rows or rounds, a slip knot is required to anchor the yarn to the hook.

 Firstly fold over the yarn to make a loop.
 Insert your hook through the loop and grab the working yarn (long piece) and pull through the loop.
 Hold the tail and the working yarn and pull tight to create a knot.
 And here is your slip knot.

Now you are ready to start crocheting.

Foundation Chain

A foundation chain is required when you are starting your crocheting project with rows. Now that you have created your slip knot, you can make the chain.

 Wrap your yarn over your hook and pull back through the loop.
 This will create the first chain. Now pull the yarn over the hook and pull through again to make the second chain.
 Repeat this process till you have the amount of chains that you require.

Now you are ready to start your crocheted rows.

Double Crochet

So start by having 10 chains in your foundation chain. You can count them by the top loop. See where the arrow is pointing – that is one chain stitch. I have 10 here. Remember that you don’t count the loop on the hook.

Now it’s time to chain 1, as this will give us the height of a double crochet. Now we are going to work our first double crochet stitch in the second chain from the hook. (This is where the arrow is pointing.)

*Ok so insert the hook, into the stitch and place your yarn over your hook.

Now pull the yarn through the stitch leaving you with 2 loops on your hook.

Now yarn over your hook again and pull through both loops and there you have your first double crochet.*

Now continue working down the row in each of the chain stitches repeating this ** process.

Ok so you now have 10 double crochets in your row. So turn your work and chain 1. Remember to chain you need to put your yarn over your hook and just pull it through the loop on your hook.

*Now insert your hook into the first stitch. Can you see how it goes through the V now, so both little loops.

Yarn over your hook again and pull through the stitch to make 2 loops.

Then yarn over your hook again and pull through both loops on your hook. This completes your first double crochet in the row.*

Now repeat the process ** down the row to give you 10 double crochet stitches.

Once you are here you can now turn your work, chain 1 again and work 10 double crochet stitches.

And you are off!! Please shout if you need any help or any other photos.

Hmmm, now what will you make…

Good luck!!

🌈Xx

Don’t forget, there is also a tutorial on magic rings and crocheting in the round if you are interested in that. And also have a peak at all my patterns, as they are all photograph tutorials, so hopefully you will find these handy too.

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