Little Paddy & Ivey Turtle

Well hello my lovely ones. How are we all? I hope you have all had super weekends!! Much preferring the weather now than last week. Goodness it was wet! We seemed to have been drenched when we were out most days. It did mean we could nip into our favourite bakery for a cuppa. Bore Street Bakery pit stop with my two!! Can’t beat it!!

So as promised, here is the pattern for my two little Turtles.

Paddy and Ivy are very close little siblings!! They are usually found playing in the waves and rock pools. Ivy loves the deep waves. She dives under them and pops up squirting her little brother with water!! Little pickle!!! Paddy on the other hand, likes the shallow waters. He is quite content at the minute, following his Daddy around and asking him all sorts of questions about what he is doing.

Paddy and Ivy are quite small in size, as you can see. But they do love to snuggle up in any little ones pocket and have fun on days out with them.

Really hope you enjoy making them. They would be a great friend to any little one that is close to your heart.

Level – Easy

Supplies –

Right then, supplies. As this is a Using Up Year pattern, I have used lots of odds and ends to make my little turtles. Each little turtle uses a total of 35g of double knit yarn, so that will give you a rough idea of how much you will need.

You will also need a 3mm crochet hook, some scissors, toy stuffing, a piece of different coloured yarn for a stitch marker and a blunt ended tapestry needle to sew all your ends in. And don’t forget a pair of safety eyes, if you want to use them and some black yarn for the eyebrows and mouth.

Stitches –

Magic Ring (mr) – For a magic ring, make a loop with the yarn, leaving a tail. (Make sure the tail is under the working yarn.) Now insert your hook into the loop, from the front to the back. Wrap the working yarn around your hook and pull the yarn through and pull tight to create a ring.

If you are unsure, here’s a little video on how to make a Magic Ring.

Slip stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Double Crochet Decrease (2dctog) – This is where you crochet two stitches together to decrease the amount of stitches in the round. So insert the hook through the front of the first stitch only (the front V) and then insert again through the front of the second stitch (the front V). Now yarn over your hook and pull it back through both stitches, so you will then have 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over your hook again and pull through both loops. And there is your 2dctog. (Basically 2 double crochet stitches crocheted together.)

If you need a quick recap on how to do these stitches and a few other snippets of Amigurumi techniques, then follow the link below. Happy watching.

Ok so here we go…

Body

1 – Using your 3mm hook, make a magic ring, chain 1 and then work 6dc stitches into the ring. (6)

2 – 3 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (6)

4 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

5 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

6 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

7 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (24)

8 – Work 2dc in the first stitch, then work 1dc in the next 11 stitches. Now work 2dc in next stitch, followed by 11dc stitches. (26)

9 – Work 2dc in first stitch, then work 1dc in the next 12 stitches. Now work 2dc in next stitch, followed by 12dc stitches. (28)

10 – Work 2dc in first stitch, then work 1dc in the next 13 stitches. Now work 2dc in next stitch, followed by 13dc stitches. (30)

11 – 12 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (30)

13 – Work 2dctog, then work 1dc in the next 13 stitches. Followed by 2dctog stitch and then 13dc stitches. (28)

14 – Work 2dctog, then work 1dc in the next 12 stitches. Followed by 2dctog and then 12dc stitches. (26)

15 – Work 2dctog, then work 1dc in the next 11 stitches. Followed by 2dctog and then 11dc stitches. (24)

16 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (24)

17 – Now work *2dc, then 2dctog.* Repeat this ** 6 times. (18)

18 – Work *1dc, then 2dctog* Repeat this ** 6 times. (12)

19 – Work *2dctog* Repeat this ** 6 times. (6)

Now it’s time to fasten off, stuff your turtle’s body and then sew it up with your yarn tail.

Head

1 – Make a magic ring, chain 1 and then work 6 dc stitches into the ring. (6)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – *3dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

6 – 9 (4 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (30)

10 – Now work *3dc, then 2dctog.* Repeat this ** 6 times. (24)

11 – Now work *2dc, then 2dctog.* Repeat this ** 6 times. (18)

12 – Now work *1dc, then 2dctog.* Repeat this ** 6 times. (12)

13 – 15 (3 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

Finish your head, by slip stitching into the next stitch and fasten off. Now stuff your head with your toy stuffing so that it will be ready to then sew on to your turtle’s body.

At this stage, you could attach your safety eyes. With the eyes, you need to make sure you have them in the correct place, because once you have pushed the back on. It is very hard to get them off. So keep looking and checking that you are happy. Remember the dome on the back of the safety eye faces out. This is how it stays secure on your turtle’s head.

Shell

With the shell, I have used 5 different colours, but you can use however many colours you would like. I alternated 2 rounds of colour with 1 round of white yarn.

1 – Make a magic ring, chain 1 and then work 6 dc stitches into the ring. (6)

2 – Work *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

4 – Work *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

5 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (18)

6 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

7 – *3dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

8 – *4dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

9 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (36)

10 – *5dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (42)

11 – *1dc in the first stitch. Then 1dc in next. Miss a stitch then 4tr stitches in the next stitch. Then miss 2 stitches. *Repeat this ** 7 times. (42) After the last 4tr stitch, slip stitch into the first dc stitch to complete the round.

12 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (42)

Front Flipper x 2

1 – Start by working 12 chain stitches, then slip stitch into the first chain to make a ring.

2 – Now work 1dc in each chain (12)

3 – 4 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

5 – Work 2dc in the next 6 stitches. Follow this by working 1dc in the next 6 stitches. (18)

6 – Work 2dc in the next 6 stitches. Follow this by working 1dc in the next 12 stitches. (24)

7 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (24)

8 – Work 12dc stitches. Then work *2dctog.* Repeat this ** 6 times. (18)

9 – Work 6dc stitches. Then work *2dctog.* Repeat this ** 6 times. (12)

10 – Work *2dctog.* Repeat this ** 6 times. (6)

Now slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off. Leave the tail quite long, so you can use the tail to sew the flippers onto the body.

Back Flipper x 2 –

1 – Start by working 8 chain stitches then slip stitch into the first chain to make a ring.

2 – Work 1dc in each chain. (8)

3 – Now work 1dc in each stitch. (8)

4 – *Work 1dc then 2dc in the next stitch.* Repeat this ** 4 times. (12)

5 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

6 – Work 2dc in the next 6 stitches. Follow this by working 1dc in the next 6 stitches. (18)

7 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (18)

8 – Now work *1dc, then 2dctog.* Repeat this ** 6 times. (12)

9 – 10 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

11 – Work *2dctog.* Repeat this 6 times. (6)

And there we have it. Your 7 little turtle parts. Now it’s time to sew it altogether.

It’s best to start with the head, then the front flippers and then the back flippers. And finally the shell. Just remember to keep checking the alignment of each body part. Once you have sewed them all on, it’s time to use your black thread and needle to sew on your little eyebrows and mouth.

And there you have your little turtle. My daughter and son took their little turtles out and about on Sunday! Think they both had different ideas on how to keep them tucked up next to them all day!!

My son had a more novel way of keeping his little turtle safe.

I really hope you have enjoyed this pattern. Can’t wait to see all your little turtle creations. Don’t forget to share them and link me in.

If you like these little guys, then their parents free pattern will be following shortly!!! Couldn’t resist making the whole family!!

Happy hooking chaps!!!

🌈Xx

(Free pattern designed and brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it. ☺️Xx)

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Eddie the Teddy

Warning – this is one soft teddy bear!!! And yes it is crocheted!!!

How mad is that!!!

Sorry. I am still getting over the shock of this little bundle of soft fluff!! And I have my daughter and the lovely Debbie at wool on the exe to thank for this one.

Think Eddie is rather enjoying a peaceful moment with the Brio trains!! Bless!!

So I had heard about this faux fur yarn, but I had never thought about using it for a teddy bear. My friend, had used it once before and said how good it was, so I have always been intrigued, but never seen it to have a go with. So when my daughter and I found our way into wool on the exe, a magical yarny shop last week and this yarn caught my daughter’s eye, I just knew I needed to accept the challenge.

My daughter, like myself, likes all things soft! Especially yarn! Soft yarn – you just can’t beat it!! Now these little balls of yarn were tucked away under the window display in the shop, but were hawk eyed by my little lady and brought to my attention with squeals of excitement and joy. So when I said I would make her a teddy bear out of it, well you can imagine what kind of crazy, bouncing jig she was doing!! Bless!! So here we are, a few days after visiting wool on the exe and this little fluffy ball came to play.

Here’s the link to the amazing wool on the exe yarn shop if you fancy buying some of this incredible furry soft Sirdar yarn.

https://www.woolontheexe.com/

Now making this little ball of fluff from the yarn is an interesting one, as it is a little on the tricky side. Only in the sense that you can really see where you are crocheting. You can to some extent, but not as easy as normal yarn. So here’s a little video on how to use this amazing yarn.

Top tip for this project – count your stitches as you are making them in the round. It’s just another way of checking that you haven’t missed any stitches, as they are rather tricky to see.

Level – Moderate (Only because, you really need to know where your stitches are by how it feels, as it is rather tricky to find them amongst the fluff!

Supplies –

Right then, so for this pattern I have used this fabulous faux fur yarn from Sirdar. It’s 100% polyester, which I don’t tend to work in, but by golly it’s soft. I have used 3 balls of wool for this teddy bear, but as I usually say it depends on how your tension is as to whether you need less or more.

You will also need a pair of scissors, a blunt ended tapestry needle, a 7mm crochet hook, some toy stuffing and some toy safety eyes and nose.

Stitches –

Magic Ring (mr) – For a magic ring, make a loop with the yarn, leaving a tail. (Make sure the tail is under the working yarn.) Now insert your hook into the loop, from the front to the back. Wrap the working yarn around your hook and pull the yarn through and pull tight to create a ring.

Slip stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Double Crochet Decrease (2dctog) – This is where you crochet two stitches together to decrease the amount of stitches in the round. So insert the hook through the front of the first stitch only (the front V) and then insert again through the front of the second stitch (the front V). Now yarn over your hook and pull it back through both stitches, so you will then have 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over your hook again and pull through both loops. And there is your 2dctog. (Basically 2 double crochet stitches crocheted together.)

Ok so let’s go…

Body

1 – Start by making a magic ring. (Don’t forget there is a tutorial and a video on Magic Rings, if you are unsure.) Here’s the link to the video.

Now chain 1, then 6dc into the ring. (You can see in the photos below, what the stitches will look like.)

Then pull the tail tight to create the first round. Now as I have explained in the video tutorial, you need to work 2 knots at this stage. This is to secure the magic ring as this yarn is so lovely and soft, it tends to come open a bit. (6)

2 – Now work *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – *3dc, then 2dc into the next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

6 – 7 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (30)

8 – *3dc, then 2dctog.* (If you are unsure on how to work a 2dctog stitch – see tutorial above or you can also find it in the video tutorials. Work ** 6 times. (24)

9 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (24)

10 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

11 – 13 (3 rounds) 1dc in each stitch. (18)

14 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

15 – 1dc in each stitch. (12)

Ok, so now would be a good time to stuff your bear’s body.

16 – Work *2dctog*. Work this ** 6 times. (6)

17 – 1dc in each stitch. (6)

Now slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a tail. Use the tail to sew up the top of the body to make a nice flat little ledge for the head to sit on and leave a tail to sew on the head.

Legs x 2

1 – Make a magic ring, chain 1, then 8dc into the ring. Then pull the tail tight to create the first round. Don’t forget to work 2 knots so that the magic ring is secure. (8)

2 – 13 (12 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (8)

Now slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a tail so that you can sew it onto the body.

When you stuff your legs, stuff the feet with quite a lot of stuffing. This will give the feet a nice shape, then only put a little in the legs, to make them nice and squidgy and soft.

Arms x 2

1 – Make a magic ring, chain 1, then dc6 into the ring. Then pull the tail tight to create the first round. Don’t forget to work 2 knots so that the magic ring is secure. (6)

2 – 14 (13 rounds) Work 1dc in each Stitch. (6)

Now slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a tail so that you can sew it onto the body.

When you stuff your arms, stuff the hands with quite a lot of stuffing. This will give the hands a nice shape, then only put a little in the arms, to make them nice and squidgy and soft.

Head –

1 – Make a magic ring, chain 1, then 6dc into the ring. Then pull the tail tight to create the first round. Don’t forget to work 2 knots so that the magic ring is secure. (6)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into the next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into the next stitch.* Work 6 times. (24)

5 – 7 (3 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (24)

8 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

9 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

10 – *2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (6)

Now you can stuff the head, then slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a tail so that you can sew it up after you have attached the eyes.

Nose –

1 – Make a magic ring, chain 1, then 6dc into the ring. Then pull the tail tight to create the first round. Don’t forget to work 2 knots so that the magic ring is secure. (6)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

4 – *2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (6)

Now slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a tail so that you can sew it onto the head.

Here’s a photo with his little safety nose attached. (Will talk about those later on in the pattern.)

Ears – Make 2

1 – Make a magic ring, chain 1, then 6dc into the ring. Then pull the tail tight to create the first round. Don’t forget to work 2 knots so that the magic ring is secure. (6)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

4 – *2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (6)

5 – 4 – *2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (3)

Now slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a tail so that you can sew it onto the head.

(Don’t stuff the ears!)

Sewing up – the fun part!!

Ok, so now that you’ve got all your body parts, it’s time to sew it altogether. Now I usually start with the legs, as they tend to be the hardest to align. So basically for each body part, use the tail that you left to stitch around the top of the body part on to the body.

You just need to make sure that you work all the way around and fasten off your yarn securely by weaving it through the body and out the other side before cutting it off. The reason I do this is because the body stuffing will help it to be secure and not work it’s way free.

Then I would do the arms next, this will give you a nice flat platform for the head to sit on. Now add your ears onto your head. Don’t forget to align them as bets you can with the other body parts.

And then finally the nose onto the head and then then head. Now before your seal up the head and sew on the nose, you need to add the safety eyes and nose. Now these can be quite tricky! But basically you need to make absolute sure of the place you want them to be, as once they have been fitted, you can’t really get them off! So double, triple check!! So place the eyes where you want them and then turn the head slightly inside out to attach the back of the safety eye. It looks a bit like a washer. Now push the back of the safety eye on, with the dome part facing out.

And secure it in place. Once you have both eyes secure you can then sew up the head.

Now for the nose, as before place the nose where you want it to be and turn the nose inside out and then place the back of the nose on, with the dome part facing out. Finally put a little more stuffing in your nose and attach it to your head, sewing your way around the edges.

And there you have your finished Teddy Bear!

Really hope you have enjoyed this pattern. Can’t wait to see all your amazing creations. If you have any questions or problems, please don’t hesitate to contact me!!

Happy hooking!!

🌈Xx

(Free pattern designed and brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it. ☺️Xx)


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