How to sew up your creations.


Sewing up your little creations is nearly as important as crocheting them in the first place. That little bit of extra time that you take & the attention to detail, can really make the difference. It’s the little things like making sure the eyes are sewn on, in line to each other and the head is attached securely in place so that it doesn’t flop forward.

So here is a little explanation as to how I sew mine up. Hope it helps.

You will need – pair of scissors & a darning needle. With the faces you may need some black thread or safety eyes/noses, but the pattern will inform you of this.

I start by checking all the pieces are present and correct. I know it sounds daft, but it’s rather annoying when you are all set up to sew your toy and you are missing an ear or an arm. Trust me, it’s happened, it’s annoying.

So after many slightly wonky sewn up crocheted toys, I have come to the conclusion that the best place to start is the legs. If you attach both legs first, arms, then the head, the whole toy seems to come together easier.

Right, so first things first, the legs. You just need to make sure you keep checking the angle they are sitting at to each other and that you sew all sides of them on securely. With the legs, I just tend to pick up the last stitch on the leg itself, with the thread and sew in onto the body. So using your tail of yarn and darning needle, attach the legs to the body as seen in the picture below. Can you see how I am picking up the last stitch of the leg and one of the stitches on the body. Always making sure that I work the whole way around.

Keep checking the angle to check they look like my little unicorn legs in the picture above. At the end, sew the yarn all the way through the body and out the other side. You can do a little knot and insert it back into the body and push the needle out the other side. This will really give you a secure attachment and ensure that the end wont come out of the body.

You will use technique to sew all your body parts on. It is ever so easy, once you get the hang of it.

Now it is time for the arms. These are sewn on the same as the legs, but either side of the body. I tend to sew them on about an inch from the top. It also gives a nice little base for the head. Don’t forget to sew all the way around the arm, top and underneath. This will ensure it doesn’t fall off. How traumatic would that be!! As before, keep checking the alignment with the legs, to ensure it looks correct.

Head next. Right align your head onto the body. Making sure the nose, if you have one, is in the middle. You may have noticed there are no antennas or ears yet sewn on our head yet. This is due to the fact that they need to go on at the end of the sewing up process. (Once again, I have learnt from experience – if you sew them on before, it’s really hard to line up all the body parts i.e wonky toys!!) Make sure you really anchor the head down so that it stays upright & doesn’t flop. I keep going, in and out at the side of the neck, all the way around, to ensure it stays put.

Antennas and ears next. Both sewn up around the base of each. Keep checking your alignment! 

Now, if your pattern asks for them, sew the eyelids in place, using the same technique. As the eyes go on top of the eyelids, you will find the eyes easier to align. 

So if you are using safety eyes, attach these to your eye bases first. You need to make sure you have them in the correct place, because once you have pushed the backs on, it’s very hard to get them off.

So keep looking and checking that you are happy. Remember the dome on the back of the safety eye faces out. 

Now just sew each one in place over half the the eyelid. 

Once both eyelids are secure, I tend to then sew the eyelid slightly over the eye, to ensure it encases the middle of the eye. You can see what I mean by the photo below. 

To work the eyebrows, you can carry on using the black yarn from the eyes. Using your darning needle and a long thread of black yarn, with a knot at the end. Work from the back of the head through to the front, ensuring you come up where you want the eyebrow to start, then literally insert it back into the stitch where you want the eyebrow to end. It’s pretty simple, but very effective. Don’t make it too big, as they can get caught and snag later on! Obviously you can make any expression you would like to, just by changing the angle of the eyebrows!

Now if you are using black thread to create your eyes, you need to use a darning needle and black thread. I tend to use 4ply black cotton yarn. This is done the same way as the mouth & eyebrow, but you work your thread over one or two crocheted stitches. I tend to go over 3 or 4 times. Once again as before thread your black yarn to the back of the body, make a simple knot and then sew back through the body and cut off the end.

To make the smile, literally come up about two rounds under the first eye. Then over to the second eye in the same place. Now here’s the tricky part, find the middle of the smile and make a little stitch a few rounds underneath, but make sure your stitch goes over the smile. This is to ensure the mouth is anchored down. Here’s a little smile being made of Kevin the Carrot.

Sometimes, a pattern may ask you to use a safety nose. This is attached exactly the same as the safety eye.

Another pattern may ask you to create an owl beak. Here’s a simple picture tutorial on how to do this. You use the same method, as the eye/mouth/eyebrow, by inserting a long piece of thread, knotted at the end. Don’t forget, you always insert it at the back of the head, so the yarn is more secure. (The knot will sit in the stuffing and not be near the front of the head.)

Some patterns may ask for a chain tail. My little Esmo the Elephant has a little chain tail. Here’s how to make one.

For the tail, insert your hook where you want the tail to be. Make a slip knot in your grey yarn, then yarn over your hook and pull the yarn through. Place both yarn and tail over the hook and make a chain. Now ch20, then ss back into the body. Ch20 and once again ss back into the body. Finally ch20 and ss back into the body and this time fasten off your yarn and sew in your ends using your darning needle.

And there you have it. I hope this has helped you. If I add a pattern to my website with a different technique required, I will add it here. Any questions, just shout.

Happy hooking.

🌈Xx

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Poppies

In a blink of an eye it’s November!! How did that happen! Anyone else feeling the cold? It seems to have just switched all of a sudden. My advent shawl is well and truly out and about now and my wrist warmers are an absolute must! I find that if my wrists are warm, then my body seems to stay warmer. So it’s a no brainer for me.

I have been working on a few rather exciting projects recently. Can’t wait to share them with you. I do have a rather new labour of love though. I joined Knit School a few months ago and I seem to have been absorbed in the wonderful world of knitting jumpers at the moment. It is ever so fulfilling learning a new skill and being able to create different garments. The wonderful Michelle at Knit School is the most incredible teacher & provides you with so much information and encouragement. Really feel that I am learning so much at the moment. If you are ever interested in joining, then pop over to The Loveliest Yarn Company website where you will find a link to Knit School. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed.

https://theloveliestyarncompany.co.uk/

I love that I can switch now between crocheting and knitting. I am finding that they both seem to really compliment each other. So watch this space… Ekk!!

So as it is November, it’s about to be the time of year, when we remember. We remember those who have fought for us. Who have been to war for us and those you have lost their lives for us.

There aren’t really any words to describe the sheer sadness of all the lives that have been lost in wars and the brutality of the life that has been taken away from so many families. Even in times like these, when a pandemic surrounds us and lockdowns have been endured, we will still remember them…

They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old. Age shall not weary them. Not the years condemn. At the going down of the sun and in the morning. We will remember them. Lest we forget. 

It always make me count my lucky stars and be so terribly grateful for all we have. A time when you hold your family that little bit closer to you.

So I thought I would share my crocheted poppy pattern again with you all. I know quite a few of you made them last year, so thought I would share it again for those of you who didn’t. They are ever so easy to make and you only need a little bit of yarn. If you are able to make some for others, don’t forget to ask them to pop some pennies in a Poppy donation box. I think last year I made about 15 for friends and family members, so there was a lot of poppy love going around.

Hope you enjoy the pattern.

Level – Easy 

Supplies –

For each poppy, you will need a 4mm crochet hook, a little bit of red, black and green double knit yarn. You will also need some scissors, a safety pin and blunt ended needle. And don’t forget a safety pin so that you can attach it. (If you did want to make them in a different weighted yarn, just make sure that you change the hook size accordingly. So I would use a 3mm hook for 4ply yarn and 5mm for Aran weight yarn.

PipsTips – If the poppy is for a child, you can always leave a little yarn tail to tie it to a coat. (I did this for my son. I can’t trust him with a safety pin!! Ekk!!) 

Stitches – 

Slip Stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Chain stitch (ch) – To make a chain, place the yarn over the hook then pull it through the loop on your hook.

Treble (tr) – To make a treble crochet, firstly yarn over your hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over your hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should now be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through the first two loops, yarn over hook and pull through the last two loops.

Magic Ring – Fold over the yarn to make the loop. Insert your hook through the loop and grab the working yarn (long piece) and pull through the loop. Hold the tail and the working yarn and pull so that the knot tightens, but you still have a loop. This has created a magic ring.

Half treble (htr) – A half treble crochet is basically one less movement than a treble. So yarn over hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through all 3 loops.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Ok so here we go… 

1 – Start with your black yarn and make a magic ring. Then chain 1 and work 6dc stitches into the ring. Finish by pulling the tail tight to create the ring. (6) 

2 – Now work 2dc in each stitch in the round and finish by ss into the first stitch. Fasten off your black yarn. (12) 

First Petal – 

3 – Now change to your red yarn and attach into any of the dc stitches. Then ch1 and work 1dc in the next 6 stitches and then ss into the last stitch of your 6 stitches. This is the start of your first petal. (6) 

4 – Turn your poppy and work *1dc, then 2dc in the next stitch.* Repeat this ** 3 times. Ss into the last stitch. (9) 

5 – Turn your poppy and work *2tr, then 2tr in the next stitch.* Repeat this ** 3 times. Ss in the last stitch. (12) 

6 – Turn your poppy and work 1dc in each stitch. Ss in last stitch. (12)

Second Petal – 

7 – Now you are going to work the other petal. So ss into the first black stitch and work 1dc in the last 6 stitches. Ss in the next stitch, which is the bottom part of the first red stitch you made In the first petal. (6) 

8 – Turn your poppy and work *1dc, then 2dc in the next stitch.* Repeat this ** 3 times. Ss into the last stitch. (9) 

9 – Turn your poppy and work 1dc in each stitch. Ss in the last stitch. Now ss in the bottom of the first stitch on the other petal, then fasten off your red yarn. (9) 

Now sew in your black ends in the centre of your poppy using your needle. Now with the red yarn ends, use these to first sew up the sides of the poppy petals back down to the centre of the petal, this will help to keep the petal shape. You can see in the photo below how I am picking the top stitch of the petal and then in the photo below that, sewing it back to the centre of the poppy. 

Now use the two ends to sew on your safety pin to your poppy and then fasten off each end. 

Leaf – 

Start by chaining 10. Then work 1dc in the 2nd chain from the hook. Then work 1dc, 1htr, 1tr, 2tr in the next stitch, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc and then finally 1dc. That will take you to the end of the foundation chain. 

Now you are going to work up the other side of the foundation chain. So in the second chain work 1dc, then 1dc, 1htr, 1tr, 2tr in the next stitch, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc, 1dc then finish by working a ss into the last stitch. Now fasten off leaving a tail to sew your leaf to the poppy. Sew your other little end into your leaf and the longer one you can use to sew your leaf on to your poppy. 

And there we have it. Your little poppy. I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. Don’t forget to donate your pennies into a poppy box.

Anyways, happy hooking chaps!

Stay Safe.

🌈Xx

(Free pattern designed and brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it. ☺️Xx)

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