Patterns

Hope

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Our little brave bunny rabbit.


Well hello. How are we all? Anyone ready for Christmas? Or is it too early to ask that? I am definitely not ready! Ekk! But trying to tick stuff off, so getting there. Well I thought I would just pop this lovely little pattern on here for you again, if anyone fancied creating a little brave bunny rabbit called Hope for someone. She’s a quick & easy pattern & would be a very special pressie for someone special.

So let’s get started with dear Hope. 


Supplies –

100g Double Knit Yarn, a 3mm hook, toy stuffing, scissors, a blunt ended tapestry needle, a little bit of black yarn for the eyes, eyebrows and mouth. Don’t forget some pink yarn for the nose. 

PipsTips – 

When crocheting a toy, always use a smaller crochet hook than usually stated on the yarn. This will ensure that your toy stuffing won’t show through! 

I made this Hope with an 8mm crochet hook & super chunky yarn.

She was made for a charity quiz for the wonderful charity Child Bereavement UK. Such an incredible charity! And they do so so much for the families that need them. I’ve popped a link below for my just giving page for this incredible charity. Many of you know, I don’t sell my patterns, they are all for free, but if you would like to donate to my just giving page for Child Bereavement UK, then I would be very grateful. Here’s the link to the Just Giving Page


Stitches – 

Slip Stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Chain stitch (ch) – To make a chain, place the yarn over the hook then pull it through the loop on your hook.

Magic Ring – Fold over the yarn to make the loop. Insert your hook through the loop and grab the working yarn (long piece) and pull through the loop. Hold the tail and the working yarn and pull so that the knot tightens, but you still have a loop. This has created a magic ring.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Double Crochet Decrease (2dctog) – This is where you crochet two stitches together to decrease the amount of stitches in the round. So insert the hook through the front of the first stitch only (the front V) and then insert again through the front of the second stitch (the front V). Now yarn over your hook and pull it back through both stitches, so you will then have 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over your hook again and pull through both loops. And there is your 2dctog. (Basically 2 double crochet stitches crocheted together.)

Useful Video Clips – 

Ok so let’s go…

Body 

1 – Right then, so first things first, make your magic ring and chain 1. (Remember if you’re unsure of how to do this, see the tutorial section or the video link above) Now work 6dc stitches into the ring itself. You can now pull the little tail to close the ring. (6) 

2 – Now work *2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24) 

5 – *3dc, then 2dc into next stitch* Work ** 6 times. (30) 

6 – *4dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36) 

7 – *5dc, then 2dc into next stitch. Work ** 6 times. (42) 

8 – 11 (4 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (42)

12 – *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

13 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (36)

14 – *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

15 – 18 (4 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (30) 

19 – *3dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (24) 

20 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (24)

21 – *6dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 3 times. (21)

22 – *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (18) 

23 – *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times (15) 

24 – *3dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (12) 

25 – 26 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

This is a good time to stuff your body with toy stuffing.

27 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (9)

Now it’s time to slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off your yarn, leaving a tail for you to sew up your body. Sew up the hole using your blunt ended tapestry needle. 

Arms â€“ make 2 

1 – Make your magic ring and chain 1. Now work 4dc stitches into the ring itself and pull the little tail to close the ring. (4)

2 – *1dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 2 times. (6) 

3 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12) 

4 – 7 (4 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

6 – *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. (10)

7 – 19 (13 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (10) 

20 – *3dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. (8)

Now stuff your arm with your toy stuffing and slip stitch & fasten off your yarn. Make sure you leave enough tail so that you can sew your arm to the body.

Legs â€“ make 2 

1 – Make your magic ring and chain 1. Now work 4dc stitches into the ring itself and pull the little tail to close the ring. (4)

2 – *Work 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 4 times. Now slip stitch into the next stitch. (8)

3 – Now ch5 then 2dc into the second chain from hook. Now work 1dc into next 3 chains. Now you are back into the main round. 

Then work 1dc in the next 2 stitches. Now work 2dc into next 4 stitches, 2dc, 1dc into the other sides of the 3 chains and finish with 2dc in next chain. (22)

4 – In this round work 2dc in the next stitch, then 8dc, 2dc in next stitch, 2dc, 2dc in next stitch, 8dc and finish the round with 2dc in next stitch.  (26) 

5 – Work 1bldc in each stitch. (26) 

6 – In this round work 6dc, then dc2tog, followed by 10dc, dc2tog and finish with 6dc. (24)

7 – Work 4dc, dc2tog, 3dc, dc2tog, 4dc, dc2tog and finish with 7dc. (21) 

8 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 7 times. (14)

9 – *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. (12) 

10 – 19 (10 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

Now stuff your foot and leg with your toy stuffing and slip stitch & fasten off your yarn. Make sure you leave enough tail so that you can sew your leg to the body. 

Tail â€“ 

1 – Make a magic ring and chain 1. Now work 6dc stitches into the ring itself. You can now pull the little tail to close the ring. (6)

2 – Now work *2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

4 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (9) 

Head â€“ 

1 – Make a magic ring and chain 1. Now work 6dc stitches into the ring itself. You can now pull the little tail to close the ring. (6)

2 – Now work *2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – *3dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

6 – *4dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

7 – 12 (6 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (36)

13 – *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

14 – *3dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (24) 

15 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (18) 

In the next few rounds, you are going to work a few different stitches in each one. 

16 – Ok so work 2dctog, 2dc in next 5 stitches, 1dc, 2dctog, 1dc, 2dc in next 5 stitches and finish with a 2dctog. (25)

17 – Work 2dctog, 2dctog, *2dc into each stitch,* work ** 5 times, 1dc, 2dctog, 1dc, 2dctog, 1dc, *2dc in each stitch* work ** 5 times, 2dctog and finally 2dctog. (29) 

18 – Work 2dctog, 2dctog, 2dc, 2dctog, 2dc, 2dctog, 2dctog, 1dc, 2dctog, 2dctog, 2dc, 2dctog, 2dc, 2dctog and finally 2dctog. (19)

This would be a good time to stuff your head. 

19 – Now work *2dctog* Work ** 9 times. Finish with 1dc in the last stitch. (10)

20 – Finally *2dctog* Work ** 5 times. (5)

Now slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off leaving a tail. Use your yarn tail to sew up your head and then leave a tail to sew the head onto the body. 

Ears â€“ make 2

1 – Chain 12, then slip stitch into the first chain to make a ring. (12)

2 – Work 1dc in each chain. (12) 

3 – 12 (10 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

13 – *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. (10)

14 – 15 Work 1dc in each stitch. (10)

16 – *3dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. (8)

17 – 18 Work 1dc in each stitch. (8)

20 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 2 times. (6)

21 – *Work 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (3)

Finally slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off with enough yarn tail to sew the ears onto the head. 

Now that you have all of your rabbit parts, all you need to do is sew it together. 

I tend to start with the arms first, so that you can sort the alignment out for the rest of the body. 

Then follow with the legs, making sure that they they are aligned with the arms. 

Then the head, followed by the ears and the tail. With the ears, make sure you pinch the bottom of the ears first and work a couple of stitches through, so it pulls it together and gives it a good base. 

Once they are all secure, you can use your bit of coloured yarn to create the nose. I tend create my nose in a triangular pattern like the photos below. 

For the nose, use your pink yarn to create a triangle. And then fill the triangle in with vertical stitches. 

Now all you need to do is use your black yarn to sew on your eyes, eyebrows and mouth. 

And there you have it. One little Hope bunny rabbit. 

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. Thanks ever so much for following me. As always, if there are any questions then please don’t hesitate to ask. Always happy to help. 

Happy Hooking. 
🌈Xx 

(Don’t forget that this pattern is brought to you from PipsRainbow, it has not been tech edited, but all attempts have been made to ensure it is correct and easy to follow. It is only to be used for personnel use only and not to be shared or used to create items for profit. Thank you.)

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Patterns

PipsRainbow is 7 Years Old!

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Well as my friend rightly pointed out, it’s not the 7 year itch, but the 7 year stitch. Haha!! Well it made us chuckle. 7 years of PipsRainbow. Crazy. When I started this little rainbow journey, I wasn’t really sure where it would go. At the time, I just wanted to teach others how to crochet. I wanted to share the love of crocheting far and wide and help others to have something in their life, that they could create something wonderful for themselves or others with. It is a hobby/craft/skill/passion, whichever you want to call it, something that can bring them happiness and a sense of achievement. I started crocheting because I wanted to create toys for my daughter at the time. I had been taught to knit by my Grannie when I was a little girl, so I could knit well enough, mainly her famous slipper socks, which the family still enjoy wearing. But when I saw crocheted toys, I realised that that was the way forward. I’d also seen some crocheted mandalas in our local sewing shop. And every time I went in there, I would marvel at their beauty. They were on this big old counter at the cash desk. They sang with their different colours and circular pattern of rainbow, definitely called to me. It also used to call to my daughter, as her little hand would come out from inside her pram to touch them. So it was definitely from there that the love of crocheting began. But it wasn’t until later before I realised I wanted to teach others. And that is when PipsRainbow was created.

It was the ability to be able to create my own patterns as well. And sharing them with others. I firstly did them all for free, but then I soon realised that I wanted to crochet for Charity. My body is definitely not designed anymore for marathons, but it can crochet for Charity! So that’s when I started creating Just Giving pages for the charities that were dear to us & others around me. My main one so far is crocheting for Child Bereavement UK. And incredible Charity, that’s gives and supports so much to the families that need them. My newest pattern for them will drop next week, as one of my creations will be going in their yearly silent auction at the quiz. I wonder what it will make this year.

I think I can safely say, that sometimes PipsRainbow is extremely busy and lots going on, but then there are times where it is a little quiet and takes the back step in our busy lives. I think when this happens I seem to get a little behind with it all. And then my confidence seems to take a dip. I call it my PipsRainbow Mojo. But then when I do grab the reins again and produce and publish a pattern, I have such a sense of achievement & it’s so lovely to see others create and produce their very own. I hope this next coming year, I can keep the PipsRainbow mojo going, as I have got so many patterns to share with you. Can’t wait!

So for this year’s birthday pattern, I couldn’t resist sharing this little beauty. It’s like the ones I remember from the sewing shop. I love how you can use different scarps of yarn, to create such a beautiful thing.

Enjoy.

Supplies – I have used 12 different 4ply yarn, scissors, a blunt ended tapestry needle and a 4mm crochet hook. Mandalas are a great way to use up all this little ends of yarn from other projects.

Level – Easy

Stitches –

Magic Ring (mr) – For a magic ring, make a loop with the yarn, leaving a tail. (Make sure the tail is under the working yarn.) Now insert your hook into the loop, from the front to the back. Wrap the working yarn around your hook and pull the yarn through and pull tight to create a ring.

Slip stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Chain (ch) – To make a chain, place the yarn over the hook then pull it through the loop on your hook.

Double Crochet (dc) – To make a double crochet, insert hook through your stitch/space, yarn over hook and pull through the stitch. You should have 2 loops on your hook, now yarn over hook and pull through both loops on your hook.

Treble (tr) – To make a treble crochet, firstly yarn over your hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over your hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should now be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through the first two loops, yarn over hook and pull through the last two loops.

Half treble (htr) – A half treble crochet is basically one less movement than a treble. So yarn over hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through all 3 loops.

Double treble (dtr) – A double treble is quite a tall stitch. So yarn over hook twice, insert hook through the stitch/space and then yarn over hook again. Now pull the yarn through the stitch. There will now be 4 loops on the hook. Now place the yarn over the hook and pull through the first 2 loops. Then yarn over the hook again and pull through the next two loops. Haha, now place the yarn over the hook again and pull through the last 2 loops. Phew! It’s a bit of a long process, but a lovely stitch with the height that it gives.

Here we go…

1 – Magic ring, ch3 into the magic ring and work 7tr. Pull your tail and create your first round. Slip stitch to the first ch3 and fasten off. (8 tr)

2 – Attach the new yarn into any stitches and ch5. (This acts as 1tr & ch2.) *Work 1tr and ch2 into each stitch* Repeat ** all the way around.  Slip stitch in the first ch4 and fasten off. (8tr & ch2)

3 – Attach your new yarn into ch2sp and ch3. Work 2tr into same ch2sp. *Work 3tr in each ch2sp* Repeat ** all the way around. Slip stitch in the first 3ch and fasten off. (24tr)

4 – Attach new yarn into a stitch and then ch2. Then work 1htr in the same stitch. (This acts as 2htr.) *Work 2htr in each stitch.* Repeat ** all the way around. Slip stitch into the first ch2 and fasten off. (48 htr)

5 –  Attach new yarn into a stitch and then ch3, miss a stitch & work 1dc into the next stitch. (This acts as 1dc, ch2, 1dc.) Work *1dc, ch2, miss a stitch and 1dc into next stitch.* Now repeat ** all the way around. (16 ch2sp & 32dc)

6 – Attach new yarn into a ch2sp and ch4. (This will give the height for a dtr.) Then 1dtr into same space and ch2. * In the next ch2sp, work 2dtr and then ch2*. Repeat ** all the way around. Then slip stitch into first 4 chains and fasten off. (16 x 2dtr spools)

7 – Attach the new yarn into a ch2sp & ch3, then work 4tr into the same ch2sp. *Work 5tr into each ch2sp.* Repeat all the way around. Slip stitch into first ch3 and fasten off. (16 spaces x 5trs)

8 – This round is a little bit different as it includes 3 different types of stitches – half trebles, trebles and double trebles. Firstly ch2 into one of the first stitches of a set of 5 trebles. (This acts as your first htr), then tr, dtr, tr, htr. This is the first set of 5 stitches. Now *htr, tr, dtr, tr, htr in the next 5 stitches.* Repeat ** all the way around the mandala. Slip stitch to the first ch2 and fasten off. (80 stitches)

9 – Attach yarn into one of your htr stitches and ch6. Miss 3 stitches then work 1dc into the next stitch. This completes your first loop. Now *1dc into the next stitch, ch5, miss 3 stitches, then 1dc in next stitch.* Repeat ** all the way around. Slip stitch into first ch6 and fasten off. (16 x 5 chain loops)

10 – Attach yarn into a ch5sp and ch3. Now work 4tr into the same ch5sp, then ch2. Work *5tr into ch5sp & ch2*. Repeat ** all the way around the mandala. Then slip stitch into first ch4 and fasten off. (16 chain 2 spaces & 16 x 5 trebles)

11 – Attach yarn into a ch2sp and ch9, work 1dc into the next ch1sp. Now *ch7, then 1dc into the next ch2sp*. Repeat ** all the way around the mandala. Slip stitch into first ch2sp and fasten off. (16 spaces x 6 trs)

12 – Attach yarn into a ch7sp and ch3. (This acts as 1tr.) Work 8tr into the same ch7sp. Now work *9tr into the next ch7sp*. Repeat ** all the way around. Then slip stitch into first ch3 and fasten off. Woohoo you are finished.

And there you have it. All you need to do now is sew in all your ends and block your work. It’s important to block your work to ensure that the yarn relaxes & settles.

Well here’s to another year of PipsRainbow! I wonder what year 8 will bring.

Happy hooking.
🌈Xx

Now, as with all my patterns, they are all here for you to enjoy. And in exchange for these patterns, I would be very grateful if you could give, however little, a donation to our chosen charity Child Bereavement UK. This is an incredible Charity, that was been close to our hearts for a few years now. I cannot imagine how important the work they do is to the families that help. So if you can, however small, donate to the charity, in exchange for my pattern, then I would be so grateful. Thank you. Here’s the link to the Just Giving Page

(Don’t forget that this pattern is brought to you from PipsRainbow, it has not been tech edited, but all attempts have been made to ensure it is correct and easy to follow. It is only to be used for personnel use only and not to be shared or used to create items for profit. Thank you.)

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