Children’s Slipper Socks

I just don’t think you can beat that feeling of your little one wearing something that you have made and being so utterly excited about it!! Bless her!! Mother and daughter slipper socks! It just had to be done, didn’t it!! The request came in and 3 and 1/2 hours later they were waiting for her. Bless her, she kept seeing all these slipper socks being made and delivered to family members and wondered if and when she would have some of her very own. So low and behold, the children’s slipper sock pattern was born. My Gran did make them for us kids, so it was only a matter of time before I created this pattern.

So these slipper socks are designed to be worn over socks or barefeet, but you probably couldn’t wear them in a shoe. They are extremely warm and should wear well because of the super mix of nylon and wool in the sock yarn. It’s really important to use sock yarn for this, as it’s so hard wearing. You wouldn’t want them to wear away after usage!!! Can you imagine how upsetting that would be!! Now I am giving you the pattern in the sizes extra small, small, medium and large. Don’t forget that as wool is a natural yarn, it will give a little. So don’t make your slipper socks too big, air on the side of cosy rather than roomy!!

So here are the sizes.

Extra small is a 8-9 For this size – follow the small size pattern throughout. It will state where to create the slippers into the extra small size. This is because there are only a few differences between the small and extra small.

Small is a size 10 – 12

Medium is a 13-1

Large is a 2-3

These are comparative with children’s UK shoe sizes. Now I have written the pattern for all 4 sizes, but indicated how many stitches for each size. So in the instructions you will see something like this – (4)(6)(8) So basically each bracket represents the size and will indicate how many stitches for each one. So the  Extra Small and Small is the first bracket and will always be in italic. The medium size will be written normally and the last bracket is the Large will be written in bold. I will state where there are extra rows and different amount of stitches needed between the different sizes within the pattern.

Now the photographs below are from a large pair of children’s slipper socks made for my niece. But I have nabbed a few photos from my own slipper socks, so don’t worry if the colours suddenly change. I thought it would help for you to see how the socks work up in both self striping and solid coloured yarn. My niece’s pair are using two different solid colours from the amazing West Yorkshire Spinners Aran sock range. I’m calling it the watermelon mix. I hope she will like them! I hope this is all making sense so far and that you enjoy the pattern. As you are using Aran yarn, it is extremely quick to make up. I managed to make a pair in an evening for my daughter. But I wouldn’t recommend that, it was a bit bonkers!!

Stitches –

Slip stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Chain (ch) – To make a chain, place the yarn over the hook then pull it through the loop on your hook.

Double Crochet (dc) – To make a double crochet, insert hook through your stitch/space, yarn over hook and pull through the stitch. You should have 2 loops on your hook, now yarn over hook and pull through both loops on your hook.

Treble (tr) – To make a treble crochet, firstly yarn over your hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over your hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should now be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through the first two loops, yarn over hook and pull through the last two loops.

Supplies –

Ok, so you will need one ball of Aran sock yarn. I have used the incredible West Yorkshire Spinners yarn, which is so amazing to work with. They are 100g in weight. But basically you need to use sock yarn which has a mix of 75% wool and 25% nylon. You will also need a 6mm and a 6.5mm hook. Also some scissors, a blunt ended tapestry needle and some little stitch markers – the little clip form and some extra yarn too for a yarn stitch marker.

So the amount of yarn required, depends on which size you are making.

Extra Small – 60g of yarn

Small – 60g of yarn

Medium – 70g of yarn

Large – 90g of yarn

When you’re using self striping yarn like the WYS Aran yarn, you need to make sure that you try to start at the same place in the yarns colour swop. Otherwise you could have two slipper socks looking slightly odd. So the way I do this is I find in the yarn the first colour change and measure 10cm of yarn before that colour change occurs. Cut the yarn off here and now make your first slipper sock. So when you come to make the second one just find the same colour change and measure 10cm before again. This means you will start your slipper in the same colour change position. So hopefully they will match. Hope this makes sense.

Obviously if you are making a solid colour slipper sock then you don’t need to worry. You could make up your own stripes with two or three colours. Which would be fun, you would just need to weave in your ends at the end. I have used 2 different colours from my niece, so I have basically changed each 8 rows which gives it a chunky strip effect. But you can do any number of colour changes and colours you wish.

Now just as and extra, you can strand 2 dk sock yarns together to create a much thicker slipper if you want to. I will be writing a pattern for double knit slipper socks, but for now, if there is some double knit sock yarn you want to use instead of the Aran weight, then you can crochet them together and follow the same pattern.

Ok so here we go …

Toe –

– So start off with your 6mm hook and chain (5)(6)(8).

Now work 1dc into the 2nd chain from the hook. (If you are unsure, it’s where the needle is pointing to!)

Then work 1dc into the rest of the (4)(5)(7) chain stitches. Now place your stitch marker into the last stitch, so you know where the (4)(5)(7) stitches end.

You are now going to be working on the other side of the (4)(5)(7) chain stitches. Ok so now work 1dc into each of the (4)(5)(7) chain stitches. Then place a stitch marker in the last stitch, so you know where the round ends. You should now have (8)(10)(14) stitches.

– Ok so in this round we are going to start increasing. So start by working 2dc stitches into the first stitch. Then work 1dc in the next (1)(2)(4) stitches. Then work 2dc into the next stitch. And then in the last stitch, where the stitch marker is, work 1dc. Move your stitch marker into this stitch. So now you are increasing on the other side. So work 2dc into the next stitch. Then work 1dc into the next (1)(2)(4) stitches. And then work 2dc into the next stitch and then 1dc into the last stitch where the stitch marker is. This completes round 2. (12)(14)(18)

– Right so we are going to increase in this round too. So work 2dc into the first stitch. Then 1dc into the next (3)(4)(6) stitches, then 2dc into the next stitch. Finally work 1dc into the last stitch where the stitch marker is. Don’t forget to move the stitch marker again. Then work 2dc into the next stitch, 1dc into the next (3)(4)(6) stitches, then 2dc into the next stitch. Finally work 1dc into the last stitch where the stitch marker is. Don’t forget to move the stitch marker again. This completes the round. (16)(18)(22)

– Ok so in this round, work 1dc into each stitch. (16)(18)(22)

– We are now going to increase again. So in the next stitch work 2dc in the same stitch, 1dc x (5)(6)(8), 2dc in the same stitch, 1dc and move your marker, 2dc in the same stitch, 1dc x (5)(6)(8), 2dc in the same stitch, 1dc. (20)(22)(26)

Remove both stitch markers and replace the one nearest your hook with a yarn stitch marker. (It’s just easier to count when you are crocheting quite a few rounds.)

– You also need to change your hook to a 6.5mm hook.

So for the Extra Small size work 4 rows of 1dc in each stitch. (20)

So for the Small size work 5 rows of 1dc in each stitch. (20)

For the Medium size work 6 rows of 1dc in each stitch. (22)

For the Large size work 8 rows of 1dc in each stitch. (26)

– In this row we are going to increase again. So work 2dc in the same stitch, 1dc x (7)(8)(10), 2dc in the same stitch, 1dc, 2dc in the same stitch, 1dc x (7)(8)(10), 2dc in the same stitch, 1dc. (24)(26)(30)

Ok so now we are going to be working some 1dc rounds. So:

For the Extra Small size work 7 rows of 1dc in each stitch. (24)

For the Small size work 11 rows of 1dc in each stitch. (24)

For the Medium size work 12 rows of 1dc in each. (26)

For the Large size work 13 rows of 1dc in each. (30)

Heel –

Ok so we now have (24)(26)(30) stitches in the round and are ready to start the heel. Now to make the heel we need to get our hook into the correct place. (Basically when you start making the heel, it needs to be in line with the toe.) Ok so to do this by working (Extra small – 6)(8)(7)(6) dc stitches. If we don’t do this, the heel won’t be in line with the toe!! The reason the stitch number here for large size is smaller than the others, is because there are more rounds in this size, meaning the stitch marker, works it’s way around more.

– Slip stitch into the next stitch, then chain 1 and work 1dc into the same stitch. Then work 1dc into the next (8)(10)(14) stitches and then 1htr into the next stitch. Place a stitch marker into the first and last stitch. You should now (10)(12)(16) stitches in beginning of your heel.

– Now turn your work and chain 1. Then 1dc in the same stitch and then 1dc into the rest of the heel stitches. (10)(12)(16)

– Ok so for each of the sizes:

Extra Small and Small – For 5 rows, turn your work, chain 1 and work 1dc into the same stitch and then work 1dc into each stitch except for the last stitch. Leave the last stitch unworked. By the end of these 5 rows, you will only have 5 stitches.

Medium – For 6 rows, turn your work, chain 1 and work 1dc into the same stitch and then work 1dc into each stitch except for the last stitch. Leave the last stitch unworked. By the end of these 6 rows, you will only have 6 stitches.

Large – For 8 rows, turn your work, chain 1 and work 1dc into the same stitch and then work 1dc into each stitch except for the last stitch. Leave the last stitch unworked. By the end of these 8 rows you will only have 8 stitches.

I tend to keep a tally of which row I am on as it’s a bit tricky to count your rows at this stage.

– Now turn your work and chain 1, then 1dc in the same stitch. The work 1dc into each stitch in the row. (5)(6)(8)

– Turn your work, chain 1 and work 1dc into every stitch in the row. Now this bit is quite hard to explain – so here goes. So you need to slip stitch into side of the row below – this is where the needle is pointing.

Then work 1dc into the last unworked stitch of the row below. You can see in the photo below where the pencil is pointing to the unworked stitch. (7)(8)(10)

This picture shows when the stitch has been worked.

– Now *turn your work chain 1 and then miss the chain stitch and first dc stitch. Now work 1 dc into the rest of the stitches, then slip stitch into the side of the rows below. Then work 1dc into the last unworked stitch of the row below.* (8)(9)(11)(Sometimes it’s hard to work out where the slip stitch in the side of the row goes, but it’s basically the side of the row just above the unworked stitch.)

– Repeat ** from row above for (6)(7)(7) more rows. When you work the last couple of rows, work the last stitch into the original stitch where the marker is. Don’t worry if you struggle with this bit, it’s a little fiddly. You just need to make sure it’s right at the bottom of the start of the heel, as otherwise you will have a gap when you join the heel back to the foot stitches. You can remove each marker when you get to this stage. You now have (14)(16)(18) in the heel itself.

Leg –

You are now back to the beginning again. Here you need to turn your work. Now place your yarn stitch marker here.

– Now chain 1 and 1dc into the same stitch. Then work 1dc in the all of the stitches in the heel. (14)(16)(18)

Now you need to find the next proper stitch and work 1dc into it. I always count backwards from where the stitch marker is at the beginning and count (14)(14)(16) stitches to check where you need to put this first stitch. Again this can be a little fiddly to find, but counting back from the stitch marker should help you to find these stitches.

Now if you have a big gap here, you may want to work this gap together. So basically insert you hook into the side of the row, insert your hook and pull the yarn through. You will have two loops on your hook.

Now insert your hook into the first stitch, yarn over your hook and pull through. (3 loops)

Now yarn over your hook and pull through all 3 loops. This will close up the space where the heel and the leg attach.

Then work (13)(13)(15) more 1 dc stitches. This will finish the first round. (28)(30)(34)

– So using your yarn stitch marker as your guide, work (6 for extra small)(8)(10)(12) rounds. (You can do less or more rounds here, depending on how long you want the leg to be.) (28)(30)(34)

– Once you have completed your (6)(8)(10)(12) rounds of dc stitches, slip stitch into the next stitch. (28)(30)(34)

– Ok so for the top bit of the leg you need to change back to your 6mm hook. Then chain 3 (This counts as your first tr.) This will give you the height for a treble crochet.

 

Now work 1tr in each stitch in the round. (28)(30)(34)

 

– *Once you get to the stitch marker, slip stitch into the chain 3 space and work 3 chains again. Once again work 1 tr into each stitch in the round.* (28)(30)(34)

– For the last round, *slip stitch into the next stitch, chain 1 (This acts as your first dc) then work 1dc into each stitch. Then slip stitch into the first dc stitch.* (28)(30)(34)

– Now repeat ** from the row above for one more round. Finally fasten off your ends and now sew in your ends. (28)(30)(34)

And there you have it, a pair of slipper socks for all your little ones. We need to keep those precious tootsies warm!! I really hope you have enjoyed this pattern. I’ve got a serious amount of feet now to keep warm in our family!! I had better get a wiggle on!!  Don’t worry Grannie – I will keep the slipper sock lantern going!! My dear Slipper Sock Queen!

 

Don’t forget to share pictures of your slipper socks! Can’t wait to see any creations you have made!! You can always link it to @pipsrainbow.

Happy hooking everyone.

🌈 Xx