free pattern – Page 4

Eddie the Teddy

May 3, 2019 No Comments

Warning – this is one soft teddy bear!!! And yes it is crocheted!!!

How mad is that!!!

Sorry. I am still getting over the shock of this little bundle of soft fluff!! And I have my daughter and the lovely Debbie at wool on the exe to thank for this one.

Think Eddie is rather enjoying a peaceful moment with the Brio trains!! Bless!!

So I had heard about this faux fur yarn, but I had never thought about using it for a teddy bear. My friend, had used it once before and said how good it was, so I have always been intrigued, but never seen it to have a go with. So when my daughter and I found our way into wool on the exe, a magical yarny shop last week and this yarn caught my daughter’s eye, I just knew I needed to accept the challenge.

My daughter, like myself, likes all things soft! Especially yarn! Soft yarn – you just can’t beat it!! Now these little balls of yarn were tucked away under the window display in the shop, but were hawk eyed by my little lady and brought to my attention with squeals of excitement and joy. So when I said I would make her a teddy bear out of it, well you can imagine what kind of crazy, bouncing jig she was doing!! Bless!! So here we are, a few days after visiting wool on the exe and this little fluffy ball came to play.

Here’s the link to the amazing wool on the exe yarn shop if you fancy buying some of this incredible furry soft Sirdar yarn.

https://www.woolontheexe.com/

Now making this little ball of fluff from the yarn is an interesting one, as it is a little on the tricky side. Only in the sense that you can really see where you are crocheting. You can to some extent, but not as easy as normal yarn. So here’s a little video on how to use this amazing yarn.

Top tip for this project – count your stitches as you are making them in the round. It’s just another way of checking that you haven’t missed any stitches, as they are rather tricky to see.

Level – Moderate (Only because, you really need to know where your stitches are by how it feels, as it is rather tricky to find them amongst the fluff!

Supplies –

Right then, so for this pattern I have used this fabulous faux fur yarn from Sirdar. It’s 100% polyester, which I don’t tend to work in, but by golly it’s soft. I have used 3 balls of wool for this teddy bear, but as I usually say it depends on how your tension is as to whether you need less or more.

You will also need a pair of scissors, a blunt ended tapestry needle, a 7mm crochet hook, some toy stuffing and some toy safety eyes and nose.

Stitches –

Magic Ring (mr) – For a magic ring, make a loop with the yarn, leaving a tail. (Make sure the tail is under the working yarn.) Now insert your hook into the loop, from the front to the back. Wrap the working yarn around your hook and pull the yarn through and pull tight to create a ring.

Slip stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Double Crochet Decrease (2dctog) – This is where you crochet two stitches together to decrease the amount of stitches in the round. So insert the hook through the front of the first stitch only (the front V) and then insert again through the front of the second stitch (the front V). Now yarn over your hook and pull it back through both stitches, so you will then have 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over your hook again and pull through both loops. And there is your 2dctog. (Basically 2 double crochet stitches crocheted together.)

Ok so let’s go…

Body –

1 – Start by making a magic ring. (Don’t forget there is a tutorial and a video on Magic Rings, if you are unsure.) Here’s the link to the video.

Now chain 1, then 6dc into the ring. (You can see in the photos below, what the stitches will look like.)

Then pull the tail tight to create the first round. Now as I have explained in the video tutorial, you need to work 2 knots at this stage. This is to secure the magic ring as this yarn is so lovely and soft, it tends to come open a bit. (6)

2 – Now work *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – *3dc, then 2dc into the next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

6 – 7 (2 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (30)

8 – *3dc, then 2dctog.* (If you are unsure on how to work a 2dctog stitch – see tutorial above or you can also find it in the video tutorials. Work ** 6 times. (24)

9 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (24)

10 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

11 – 13 (3 rounds) 1dc in each stitch. (18)

14 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

15 – 1dc in each stitch. (12)

Ok, so now would be a good time to stuff your bear’s body.

16 – Work *2dctog*. Work this ** 6 times. (6)

17 – 1dc in each stitch. (6)

Now slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a tail. Use the tail to sew up the top of the body to make a nice flat little ledge for the head to sit on and leave a tail to sew on the head.

Legs x 2

1 – Make a magic ring, chain 1, then 8dc into the ring. Then pull the tail tight to create the first round. Don’t forget to work 2 knots so that the magic ring is secure. (8)

2 – 13 (12 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (8)

Now slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a tail so that you can sew it onto the body.

When you stuff your legs, stuff the feet with quite a lot of stuffing. This will give the feet a nice shape, then only put a little in the legs, to make them nice and squidgy and soft.

Arms x 2

1 – Make a magic ring, chain 1, then dc6 into the ring. Then pull the tail tight to create the first round. Don’t forget to work 2 knots so that the magic ring is secure. (6)

2 – 14 (13 rounds) Work 1dc in each Stitch. (6)

Now slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a tail so that you can sew it onto the body.

When you stuff your arms, stuff the hands with quite a lot of stuffing. This will give the hands a nice shape, then only put a little in the arms, to make them nice and squidgy and soft.

Head –

1 – Make a magic ring, chain 1, then 6dc into the ring. Then pull the tail tight to create the first round. Don’t forget to work 2 knots so that the magic ring is secure. (6)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into the next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into the next stitch.* Work 6 times. (24)

5 – 7 (3 rounds) Work 1dc in each stitch. (24)

8 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

9 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

10 – *2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (6)

Now you can stuff the head, then slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a tail so that you can sew it up after you have attached the eyes.

Nose –

1 – Make a magic ring, chain 1, then 6dc into the ring. Then pull the tail tight to create the first round. Don’t forget to work 2 knots so that the magic ring is secure. (6)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

4 – *2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (6)

Now slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a tail so that you can sew it onto the head.

Here’s a photo with his little safety nose attached. (Will talk about those later on in the pattern.)

Ears – Make 2

1 – Make a magic ring, chain 1, then 6dc into the ring. Then pull the tail tight to create the first round. Don’t forget to work 2 knots so that the magic ring is secure. (6)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (12)

4 – *2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (6)

5 – 4 – *2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (3)

Now slip stitch into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a tail so that you can sew it onto the head.

(Don’t stuff the ears!)

Sewing up – the fun part!!

Ok, so now that you’ve got all your body parts, it’s time to sew it altogether. Now I usually start with the legs, as they tend to be the hardest to align. So basically for each body part, use the tail that you left to stitch around the top of the body part on to the body.

You just need to make sure that you work all the way around and fasten off your yarn securely by weaving it through the body and out the other side before cutting it off. The reason I do this is because the body stuffing will help it to be secure and not work it’s way free.

Then I would do the arms next, this will give you a nice flat platform for the head to sit on. Now add your ears onto your head. Don’t forget to align them as bets you can with the other body parts.

And then finally the nose onto the head and then then head. Now before your seal up the head and sew on the nose, you need to add the safety eyes and nose. Now these can be quite tricky! But basically you need to make absolute sure of the place you want them to be, as once they have been fitted, you can’t really get them off! So double, triple check!! So place the eyes where you want them and then turn the head slightly inside out to attach the back of the safety eye. It looks a bit like a washer. Now push the back of the safety eye on, with the dome part facing out.

And secure it in place. Once you have both eyes secure you can then sew up the head.

Now for the nose, as before place the nose where you want it to be and turn the nose inside out and then place the back of the nose on, with the dome part facing out. Finally put a little more stuffing in your nose and attach it to your head, sewing your way around the edges.

And there you have your finished Teddy Bear!

Really hope you have enjoyed this pattern. Can’t wait to see all your amazing creations. If you have any questions or problems, please don’t hesitate to contact me!!

Happy hooking!!

🌈Xx

(Free pattern designed and brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it. ☺️Xx)

Patterns

Mr & Mrs Eggy

April 5, 2019 No Comments

Hello my lovely ones. How are we all? Are we all getting ready for Easter? Not long now. It definitely feels like it’s come around quickly this year. We’re all looking forward to having a break and a bit of a slower pace in our house, from the usual school run craziness!! I think I will get my daughter to make a mindmap of all the things she wants to do in the holidays again. It worked really well at half term. We had great fun, ticking them all off.

Hoping to start her off with some Grannie Squares this holiday too. Think the blanket might have to be put on hold for a bit. Bless her. Might have been a bit too ambitious with that one!! Whoops!!

So I reckon it’s time to introduce you guys to Mr & Mrs Eggy.

They seem to be sheltering under their umbrella from all this wind and rain at the moment. I don’t blame them. These two have been hiding in the playroom for the last month or so. They seem to spend most of their time snuggled up together. Bless. Everything I make at the minute seems to be in twos!! I don’t know why! I never seem to set out to make two, it just seems to happen!!! Funny!!

Right, so this is where my Using Up Year and Easter have joined forces to create these two lovely Eggs! They are the healthy alternative to any yummy chocolatey heavenly Easter Egg that you might be thinking about buying for your loved ones!! Haha! Only joking. These little guys would be a great accompaniment to any chocolatey egg and will be there to snuggle your little bods, when the sad day arrives when all the chocolate has been eaten. A sad day indeed…

Really hope you enjoy this pattern. It’s ever so simple and quick to whip up. They are created by using the ever so simple Treble Crochet stitch, so it gives a nice alternative to the normal double crochet Amigurumi patterns and also works up a lot quicker.

Ok so off we go…

Level – Easy

Supplies –

So for Mr & Mrs Eggy I have used soft double knit wool, but you can choose whatever yarn you would like. Now you are going to need a 3mm crochet hook. (The reason we use a smaller hook size to the yarn, is so that the weave is smaller, thus making sure no toy stuffing comes out.) So for the double knit yarn – you will need about 140g, but I used all my bits up, so up to you what you can find in your stash!!

Don’t forget you also need a bit of white and black yarn for the eyes and face. And also your scissors, toy stuffing and blunt ended tapestry needle. Oh and a pom pom! The best bit!!

Stitches –

Magic Ring – Fold over the yarn to make the loop. Insert your hook through the loop and grab the working yarn (long piece) and pull through the loop. Hold the tail and the working yarn and pull so that the knot tightens, but you still have a loop. This has created a magic ring.

Chain (ch) – To make a chain, place the yarn over the hook then pull it through the loop on your hook.

Treble (tr) – To make a treble crochet, firstly yarn over your hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over your hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should now be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through the first two loops, yarn over hook and pull through the last two loops.

Decrease with treble (tr2tog) – ok so basically you need to crochet 2 stitches together, but still keep the height of a tr. So yarn over your hook and insert into stitch. Then yarn over hook and pull back through. This leaves you with 3 loops on your hook. Now yarn over your hook and pull through first 2 loops. This will leave you with 2 loops on your hook. Now yarn over hook and insert into the next stitch. Then yarn over your hook again and pull yarn back through. This leaves you with 4 loops on your hook. So yarn over your hook and pull through the first 2 loops. Then to finish, yarn over your hook and pull through the last 3 loops.

Double Treble Stitch (dtr) – A double treble is quite a tall stitch. So yarn over hook twice, insert hook through the stitch/space and then yarn over hook again. Now pull the yarn through the stitch. There will now be 4 loops on the hook. Now place the yarn over the hook and pull through the first 2 loops. Then yarn over the hook again and pull through the next two loops. Haha, now place the yarn over the hook again and pull through the last 2 loops. Phew! It’s a bit of a long process, but a lovely stitch with the height that it gives.

Body –

Now as this is a great Using Up Project, you can either use lots of little bits of yarn for the body like Mrs Eggy or one ball of yarn like Mr Eggy. Depends what look you are going for or how much yarn you have of each colour. For Mr Eggy I used about half a ball of a colour changing yarn. He seemed to work up quite nicely in that.

1 – Right then, so first things first, make your magic ring and chain 3. (Remember if you’re unsure of how to do this, see the tutorial section. Just remember you are working a Treble Crochet Stitch into the magic ring.)

Now work 12tr stitches into the ring itself.

To make a Treble Crochet Stitch – firstly yarn over your hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over your hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should now be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through the first two loops, yarn over hook and pull through the last two loops.

Here’s your 12 treble Crochet stitches.

You can now pull the little tail to close the ring. (12)

2 – Work 2tr into each stitch. (24)

3 – Work 2tr into each stitch. (48)

4 – Work 1tr in each stitch. (48)

5 – Now work *7tr, then 2tr into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (54)

6 – 7 (2 rounds) Work 1tr into each stitch. (54)

8 – *8tr, then 2tr into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (60)

9 – *9tr, then 2tr into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (66)

10 – *10tr, then 2tr into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (72)

11 – 13 (3 rounds) Work 1tr into each stitch. (72)

14 – *11tr, then 2tr into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (78)

15 – Work 1tr into each stitch. (78)

16 – Now work *11tr stitches, then tr2tog* repeat ** 6 times. (72)

Right then, so to work a tr2tog Stitch – Yarn over your hook and insert into stitch. Then yarn over hook and pull back through. This leaves you with 3 loops on your hook. Now yarn over your hook and pull through first 2 loops. This will leave you with 2 loops on your hook. Now yarn over hook and insert into the next stitch. Then yarn over your hook again and pull yarn back through. This leaves you with 4 loops on your hook. So yarn over your hook and pull through the first 2 loops. Then to finish, yarn over your hook and pull through the last 3 loops. And there you have your tr2tog.

17 – Work 1tr into each stitch. (72)

18 – Now work *10tr stitches, then tr2tog* repeat ** 6 times. (66)

19 – Work 1tr into each stitch. (66)

20 – Now work *9tr stitches, then tr2tog* repeat ** 6 times. (60)

21 – Work 1tr into each stitch. (60)

22 – Now work *8tr stitches, then tr2tog* repeat ** 6 times. (54)

23 – Work 1tr into each stitch. (54)

24 – Now work *7tr stitches, then tr2tog* repeat ** 6 times. (48)

25 – Work 1tr into each stitch. (48)

26 – Now work *6tr stitches, then tr2tog* repeat ** 6 times. (42)

27 – Now work *5tr stitches, then tr2tog* repeat ** 6 times. (36)

28 – Now work *4tr stitches, then tr2tog* repeat ** 6 times. (30)

29 – Now work *3tr stitches, then tr2tog* repeat ** 6 times. (24)

This would be a good time to stuff your body with stuffing.

30 – Now work *2tr stitches, then tr2tog* repeat ** 6 times. (18)

31 – Now work *tr2tog* repeat ** 6 times. (9)

Now slip stitch into the first stitch, sew up the hole and fasten off leaving a tail to sew the pom pom onto the top of the body later on.

Eyes – Make 2 using your white yarn.

Right so for the eyes you can either make two of the same or two different shaped ones. So I have included a round pattern and an oval pattern. So it’s totally up to you.

Eye 1 (The round one)

1 – Right then, so make your magic ring and chain 1. Now work 6dc stitches into the chain itself. You can now pull the little tail to close the ring. (6)

2 – *Now work 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *Now work 1dc, then 2dc in the next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *Now work 2dc, then 2dc in the next stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

Now slip stitch into the first stitch and fasten off leaving a tail to sew the eye onto the body.

Eye 2 (The Oval one)

1 – Right then, so make your magic ring and chain 1. Now work 6dc stitches into the chain itself. You can now pull the little tail to close the ring. (6)

2 – *Now work 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – Then work 2dc in the 3 next stitches, then 3dc stitches, followed by 2dc in the next 3 stitches. Then finish with 3dc stitches. (18)

4 – Ok so for the last round, it’s a bit of a concoction of stitches. So start by 1htr, then 1tr and 1dtr in the next stitch. Then 1dtr and 1tr in the next stitch. Follow this with 1htr in the next stitch and then 5dc stitches. Now work 1htr stitch and then 1tr and 1dtr in the next stitch. Then 1dtr and 1tr in the next stitch. Follow this with 1htr in the next stitch and finish with 5dc stitches. (Hope that all makes sense!!) (22)

(Remember if you are unsure of any stitches, just look above at the stitch section.)

Now slip stitch into the first stitch and fasten off leaving a tail to sew the eye onto the body.

Arms and Legs – Make 2 of each

Now you can use whatever combo of colours you fancy with these. I have paired up the arms and the legs, but it’s totally up to you what you do. They start off the same and then just change on the length. Just make sure you read the pattern careful, as in some parts you are going to switching between double and treble crochet stitches.

1 – Make a magic ring, chain 1, then work 6dc into the ring. (6)

2 – Now work 2dc into each stitch in the round. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc in each stitch* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc in each stitch* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – 6 (2rounds) Now work 1tr in each stitch. (24)

7 – Work *2dc, 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

8 – Work *1dc, 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

For the legs (Make 2) –

9 – 27 (18 rows) Work 1dc for in each stitch in the round. (12)

For the arms (Make 2) –

9 – 28 (19 rows) Work 1dc in each stitch in the round. (12)

29 – *1dc, 2dctog* Work ** 4 times. (8)

Now make a slip stitch and fasten off. Now it’s time to stuff the legs and the arms if you want to. Now you can either leave the arms/legs empty or give them a little stuffing, but not too much. You don’t want them to stick out too much and not have any movement! For this pattern I like to keep the arms and hands completely free of stuffing, but stuff my feet and a little of the legs, but it really doesn’t matter either way.

Now you have 2 arms and 2 legs done. You’ll be able to tell the difference easily between the two, as the arms are a little longer and taper in at the top.

And there we have it. All body parts made…

Sewing Up –

Right then, so all we need to do now is sew it altogether and add the face and most importantly, the pom pom!!

So you are going to need your scissors and blunt ended needle to sew up your body parts and some black yarn for the face.

First things first, use the tail from the top of the arms to sew each arm on to the top of the body.

When you’re sewing on the arms and legs, make sure you sew the top of the arm/leg and the under side of it too.

Right now for those legs. You need to decide how you want them to lie, but this is the angle I tend to use.

Sew your legs on with the same kind of technique as the arms. You just need to make sure you keep checking the angle they are sitting at to each other.

Ok so now for the eyes. So to sew them on, grab the middle little tail and using your needle, just loosely sew the tail through to the other side and cut off the visible end. This will gently anchor the eye in place, which will make it easier for you to sew around the edges.

So the best way to sew them on is to work your way up and down in and out of each stitch. You can see in the picture below how I am coming back up through the next stitch. This will ensure the sewing on thread is hidden and will give a much neater finish to your project.

Once you have finished your first eye, I insert the needle through to the back of the body, where I make a simple knot and insert that back through to the side of the body. This will ensure that the eye is anchored properly. Now onto the second eye and sew on as before. Make sure that you keep checking the eyes are level and placed where you want them to be. Don’t be afraid to undo and start again, if it goes a little wonky!!

Ok, so now it’s time to finish the eyes and create the eyebrows. For the eye, start by threading your needle with black yarn and then knotting the end. Then thread it through from the back of the body, through the middle of the white part of the eye. The knot at the back should be small enough to fit through the middle of a stitch so that it is hidden, but be able to nestle in the stuffing to anchor the eye in place. Now finish your eyes by working little pupils on each eye, by sewing up and over a stitch. You can make these pupils as small or as big as you like. I seem to usually go over 2 stitches and usually sew it over about 4 times.

To work the eyebrows, you can carry on using the black yarn from the eyes. So come up where you want the eyebrow to start and then literally insert it back into the stitch where you want the eye brow to end. It’s pretty simple, but very effective. Don’t make it too big, as they can get caught and snag later on! Obviously you can make any expression you would like to, just by changing the angle of the eyebrows!

To make the smile, literally come up about two rounds under the first eye. Then over to the second eye in the same place. Now here’s the tricky part, find the middle of the smile and make a little stitch a few rounds underneath, but make sure your stitch goes over the smile.

This is to ensure the mouth is anchored down. Once again as before thread your black yarn to the back of the body, make a simple knot and then sew back through the body and cut off the end.