Wrist warmers

As the nights are drawing in and the clocks have been turned back for another year, I thought it was about time I shared this cosy pattern for my wrist warmers. As patterns go, it is decidedly simple!!! So great for a snuggly night in, in front of the fire with a cuppa & a hook in your hand. The stitch I have used is a lovely little number called the Crossed Treble Stitch. So as long as you know how to work a treble, then you can work a crossed treble stitch. Some of you might recognise it from my Year Of The Stitches CAL Blanket from last year. Really hope you like this one.

For these wrist warmers I have used some utterly wonderful 4ply yarn from the incredible Abby over at Luxury Yarns. It was part of my September Ōilyarns Club which I subscribe to every 2 months.

It’s a mega Yarn club where Abby sends you some of her amazing hand dyed yarn and a little bottle of the wonderful essential Dōterra oils, which has all sorts of uses and benefits. Abby usually adds a little treat in there too!! So it’s well worth a peak at her website if you fancy joining. Here’s a link to her website.

https://luxuryyarns.co.uk/oilyarns-club/

Now, I think I had better own up to my little yarny mishap that I had with this rather special yarn. So when my lovely yummy yarn arrived on my door step, it was a beautiful skein of heaveness. So being in a skein I would usually get my husband to help me make it into a ball with my yarn winder. (It’s a 2 man job!) But me being me, thought hey, I could just do it by hand. Not a problem. I’ve done it before!! So I started hand winding, whilst wondering around the house after my little man. He was quite happy, so I got about half of it wound. Dinner time was looming, so it was hung on my wardrobe door & left until the morning. Now for some reason I took it downstairs in the morning, thinking if I got a moment I could sneak a bit more winding. But stupidly l hung it on the kitchen door handle, in full reaching view of my little man!! And, yes you have guessed it, he just couldn’t resist! It was grabbed and whizzed up in his hands within seconds, whilst shouting ‘Look Mummy, I can wind wool too!!!’ Aahhhh! How can you be cross with him!! But it was unrecognisable! What a mess!!!! One not so happy Mummy!! Luckily for me, my Dad is my Yarny Knight in Shining Armour and he took it away in a soup container to be sorted out! (I wouldn’t have had a chance with it!!!)

If only I had kept it on this door!! It would never have ended up in the soup tub!!!

Heyho!!! My wonderful Dad brought it back to me in this little ball of yarny magicalness. Phew!! Thanks Dad! You’re my Yarny Hero!! Moral of the story – never leave it in full reaching view of any little bod who loves having fun!!!!

Right, so let’s get down to business!!

Level – Easy

Size – Ladies

Supplies –

So I have used the utterly gorgeous autumnal 4ply yarn from the amazing Abby at Luxury Yarns. It’s called Forever Autumnal and it’s a Ultra Merino 100% Superwash. The skein is about 450g/100m, but you don’t need very much for this pattern at all. I have also used a 3.5mm hook for this pattern, some scissors, a blunt ended tapestry needle and a yarn stitch marker. (I only really used my stitch marker for the thumb.)

Stitches –

Chain stitch (ch) – To make a chain, place the yarn over the hook then pull it through the loop on your hook.

Slip Stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Treble (tr) – To make a treble crochet, firstly yarn over your hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over your hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should now be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through the first two loops, yarn over hook and pull through the last two loops.

Crossed Treble – So this is a stitch where you miss a stitch, work 1tr in the next stitch and then work 1tr in the stitch you have just missed. It’s a lovely stitch to work and gives a lovely textured effect.

Magic Ring – Fold over the yarn to make the loop. Insert your hook through the loop and grab the working yarn (long piece) and pull through the loop. Hold the tail and the working yarn and pull so that the knot tightens, but you still have a loop. This has created a magic ring.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Ok so here we go…

Wrist Warmers – make 2

1 – Start by chaining 43. Now turn your work and work 1tr in the 4th chain from the hook. This is where the arrow is pointing.

*Now miss a ch and work 1tr in the next ch. Then work 1tr in the ch that you missed.* This is your first crossed treble stitch.

Now repeat this ** across the row until you get to the last stitch. In the last stitch work 1tr. (40)

2 – Turn your work. Ch3 and work 1tr in the same stitch. *Miss a stitch and work 1tr in the next stitch and then 1tr in the stitch you just missed. Repeat this ** until you get to the last stitch. Then work 1tr in the last stitch. (40)


3 – Now it’s time to repeat step 2, 21 more times. This will give you a rectangular shape. So you will then have 22 rows. (40)


Now it’s time to sew up your wrist warmers. So place one half on top of the other and insert your hook in the front of the first tr stitch, then into the the first chain stitch on the other side of your rectangle. You can see this from the photo below.

Ok so yarn over and pull through both the chain and the tr stitch, then yarn over and pull through both loops to complete your first dc stitch.

Now work 1dc in the same way in each, sewing up the sides for 22 stitches. You should get a little ridge of stitches. You can see this on the picture above. Then fasten off your yarn. The reason you are only sewing up 22 stitches, is because you are now going to work the thumb.

The Thumb

Start by attaching your yarn into the front of the next tr stitch on the left side of your rectangle. (Don’t work the chain stitch!!) Now work 1dc in the next 7 stitches on the left side. You should now have 8dc stitches on the one side.

Then go over to the other half of the wrist warmer and you are going to work your way back down to the base of the thumb where you started. I tend to count 8 chains from the base of the thumb and insert your hook in the 8th chain. (You can see where you need to do the first stitch in the photo above.) Work 1dc like before in this stitch and then 7dc stitches back to the base of the thumb. You should now have 16dc stitches in your round. It should look like the photo below. (You can use your stitch marker here, to help you know where the round finishes and starts.) Finish the round by Ss in the first dc stitch.

For the second round of the thumb work 2dc in the first stitch and then 6dc stitches and then 2dc in the next 2 stitches. Follow this with 6dc stitches then 2dc in the last stitch then ss into the first stitch. (20)

In this round we are going to work some crossed treble stitches. So ch 3, then work 1tr in the first stitch. *Then miss a stitch and work 1tr in the next stitch. Then work 1tr in the stitch you missed.* Repeat this ** all the way around. Working 1tr in the last stitch and then ss into the first tr stitch. (20)

For this last round, ch 3, then work 1tr in the first stitch. *Then miss a stitch and work 1tr in the next stitch. Then work 1tr in the stitch you missed.* Repeat this ** all the way around. Working 1tr in the last stitch and then ss into the first tr stitch. Then fasten off and sew in your ends. (20)

Finally we need to finish sewing up the wrist warmers. So attach your yarn again by inserting your hook into the first of the last 8 stitches and then through chain stitch, like the photo below. Then yarn over and pull through both stitches, then yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook to complete the first dc stitch.

Then work 1dc in the last 7 stitches in the same way and finally fasten off.

Now it’s time to sew in all your ends and turn the wrist warmer inside out, so the sewing up ridge is on the inside. And there you have it.

 Now all you need to do is make wrist warmer number two!

Flower – make 2

As these are wrist warmers for a lady, thought it would be rather nice to decorate them with a little flower.

1 – Make your magic ring, chain 1 & work 12dc stitches into the ring. Pull your tail to close the ring. (12)

2 – Slip Stitch into the first dc, ch4, miss a stitch & work 1dc into next stitch. Now work *ch3, miss a stitch & work 1dc into next stitch.* Repeat this ** 5 more times. Ss into first ch. So there are 6 chain spaces altogether. (These are where your petals will go.) 

– Now in each of the ch1spaces, work *Ss, 1dc, 1htr, 1tr, 1dtr, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc and finally ss.* Repeat this ** 6 times. Finally ss into the first dc and fasten off. (6 petals in total) 

Now sew in one of your ends and use the other to sew your flower into your wrist warmer.

And there we have it. Your completed wrist warmers. They were definitely nice to wear by the sea the other day. Love this pattern, as they are not too bulky, so great to keep in your coat pocket and bring out when you need them!

Really hope you have enjoyed this pattern. Any questions or queries just give us a shout. Can’t wait to see all your creations, don’t forget to share them!!!

Happy hooking!!

🌈Xx

(Free pattern designed and brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it. ☺️Xx)

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Mulberry Mandala

Well hello my lovely ones! How are we all? Hope we have all had a good starts to the week. Ours has been busy busy as always. Usual school run and after school craziness!! But all good, all good.

It’s definitely getting more autumny now isn’t it! It is a lovely time of year though. I just adore those warm colours that all the trees and leaves delight us with each year. So magical. But I definitely think it’s layers time!! One minute your rather chilly and the next on a seriously warm side!! Layers at the ready peeps!! My usual 4 socks method has begun on my feet already!!

So I have to apologise for the rather large delay with this pattern. I had promised it many months ago, but guessing a bit of better late than never spirit needs to be going on. I’ve always wanted to design another mandala. They are such a beautiful sight, when they are displayed in all their glory with vases and pots on them filled with bright colours of flowers and sunny blooms. But I also wanted to mix it up with the yarn I used and wanted to come away from the double knit cottons that are usually used for mandalas and try my hand at a more dainty and delicate yarn such as this 3ply silk. And what better yarn to use than this beautiful 3ply mulberry silk from the very talented Abby Parkes.

So my gorgeous little ball of yarny loveliness came out of this little parcel of magic from Luxury Yarns.

It was from a previous instalment from the Ōil Yarns Club that the wonderful Abby has set up. So my parcel comprised of a skein of beautifully hand dyed yarn by Abby, a little bottle of some essential oils from the DōTERRA range and a lovely little jewel marker. You can sign up for one, two or three monthly instalments, so you can make it work for you. If you fancy a peak and are intrigued, then just follow the link below.

https://luxuryyarns.co.uk/oilyarns-club/

Trust me, you won’t be disappointed!!

Right then, so let’s get started.

Level –

Moderate (There’s a few slightly tricker stitches in this one.)

Supplies

So for this project I have this beautiful 3ply mulberry silk yarn. I have only used about 15g of yarn, so you could definitely make quite a few with a ball of yarn. You will also need a 3mm crochet hook, some scissors and a blunt ended tapestry needle.

Stitches –

Magic Ring – Fold over the yarn to make the loop. Insert your hook through the loop and grab the working yarn (long piece) and pull through the loop. Hold the tail and the working yarn and pull so that the knot tightens, but you still have a loop. This has created a magic ring.

Slip stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Chain (ch) – To make a chain, place the yarn over the hook then pull it through the loop on your hook.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Half treble (htr) – A half treble crochet is basically one less movement than a treble. So yarn over hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through all 3 loops.

Treble (tr) – To make a treble crochet, firstly yarn over your hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over your hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should now be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through the first two loops, yarn over hook and pull through the last two loops.

Back Loop Double Crochet (bldc) – Insert the hook through the second part of the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Back Loop Treble Crochet (bltr) – Yarn over your hook and insert the hook through the second part of the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have three loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through the first two loops. Then yarn over your hook and pull through the last two loops.

Ok so here we go …

1 – Start by working a magic ring, then ch1. Follow this by working 6dc into the magic ring, then pull the tail right to create the first round. Finally slip stitch into the first dc stitch.

If you’re not sure how to work a magic ring, then here’s a little video for a quick reminder.

2 – Now Ch3 and work 2tr in the first stitch. Now work *2tr in the next stitch.* Repeat this ** 5 times. Finish by ss into the first tr in the round.

3 – Ch3 and work 1tr in the first stitch. Now work 2tr in the next stitch. Now work *1tr, then 2tr in the next stitch.* Repeat this ** 5 times. Finally ss into the first tr stitch.

4 – For this round, you are going to work back loop treble stitches. Start by chaining 3 then *1bltr in the first stitch. (Remember you only work your bltr stitches in the back loop of the stitch below. This is where the arrow is pointing in the photo below.

Then work 1bltr, followed by 2bltr in the next stitch.* Repeat this ** 6 times. Finally ss in the first bltr.

5 – Chain 2, *1htr followed by ch1.* Repeat this ** 24 times. Ss into the first htr stitch.

6 – Ch3 then work *2tr and ch1 in the ch1sp.* Repeat this ** 24 times. Ss into the first tr stitch.

7 – Now ch3 then work *3tr in each ch1sp.* Repeat this ** 24 times. Ss into the first tr stitch.

8 – Chain 3 and work 1tr in the first stitch and chain 3. Work *1tr in between the next 3tr cluster and chain 3.* Repeat this ** 23 times. Ss in the first tr stitch.

9 – Ch3 work 1tr in the first stitch and ch5. Work *1tr in the next 1tr stitch and then ch5.* Repeat this ** 23 times. Ss into first tr stitch.

10 – Ch3 and now *work 4tr into each 5chsp.* Repeat this ** 24 times. Ss into the first tr stitch.

11 – Ch2 and *work 1htr in first stitch. Then miss a stitch and chain 1.* Repeat this ** 48 times. Ss into the first tr stitch.

12 – Ch3 then *work 3htr in each ch1sp.* Repeat this ** 48 times. Ss into the first tr stitch.

13 – Ch 1. Now work *1bldc in each stitch.* Repeat this ** 144 times. Ss into the first bldc stitch.

14 – Ch1 and work 1dc in the first stitch. Chain 5, miss 4 stitches, then work 1dc the next stitch. *1dc in the next Stitch, chain 5, miss 4 stitches then 1dc in the next stitch.* Repeat this ** 23 times. Ss in the first dc.

15 – *Ss into the ch5sp. Now work 6tr stitches in the ch5sp, then ss in the same ch5sp.* Repeat this ** 24 times. Ss into the first ss.

16 – Work 1dc in the first stitch, *then ch8 and work 1dc in between the 2dc stitches from the round below.* Repeat this ** 24 times. Ss in the first dc.

17 – Work 1dc in the first dc stitch, then ch9 and then work 1dc in next dc stitch.* Repeat this ** 24 times. Ss into the first dc stitch.

18 – In the ch8sp work 2htr, 4tr, 2htr and then work 1dc into the next dc.* Repeat this ** 24 times. Ss into the first htr stitch.

19 – Work 1dc into each stitch. Repeat this ** 216 times. Ss into the first dc and fasten off.

And there you have your beautiful mulberry mandala. Don’t forget to sew in your two ends!!!

Can’t wait to see all your creations!! Don’t forget to share them on social media.

As always, any problems or questions just give me a shout.

Happy hooking!

🌈Xx

(Free pattern designed and brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it. ☺️Xx)

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