Olly and Olive Octopus
Meet Olly and Olive Octopus. They are two siblings who are looking for a new home. They are quite cheeky little creatures! Always getting into pickles, causing mayhem and having fun wherever they are. I’m hoping my two can keep them in order. Olly and Olive are currently hiding upstairs, ready to surprise them for their birthdays. These two are rather special, as both have been made with wool dyed by my own fair hands! Not sure if any of you remember, but my friend and I attended a hand dyeing workshop at the fabulous Toft Head Quarters. It was so much fun. Would highly recommend it!!! Can’t wait to have another go myself! I’m hoping that I can set up my own little hand dyeing station, when I have a little more time on my hands. The colour mixing and combos you can create are just incredible!! You basically need – natural yarn skeins, cling film, citric acid, gloves, apron, a washing up bowl, a microwave, hand dye in bottles and pipettes. Not forgetting a little bit of elbow grease and TLC.
This was Olive’s yarn at the beginning of the process. So here I have poured the dye from bottles onto the yarn and pressed it gently to create the rainbow effect.
For Olly’s yarn, I used pipettes to spot the yarn with the different coloured dyes. It gives a totally different effect to Olive’s yarn.
Once you have set them in the microwave and rinsed them, it’s time to hang the skeins to dry naturally.
It’s taken me a while to use this yarn. Think I wanted to use it for something special and design something to suit those yummy yarny colours. Definitely think it’s an octopus pattern kind of a colour mix. Either that or it could have been a monster or mythical creature. And I still have half a ball left!! Bonus!!
So for this pattern, I have added a little bit of extra detail and pictures, so that this can be used by a complete beginner to the world of amigurimi. I have also written it in it’s simplest terms at the bottom of the pattern for all you experienced crocheters that are already a dab hand at amigurimi. Hope you can all follow it easily. Please let me know of any problems you come across.
Supplies –
Ok so you are going to need about 50g of yarn for the main body and tentacles and then little white and black yarn for the eyes, eyebrows and mouth. You will also need, a 5mm & 3mm crochet hook, scissors and a blunt ended tapestry needle. Oh and don’t forget the toy stuffing!!
Stitches –
Magic Ring – Fold over the yarn to make the loop. Insert your hook through the loop and grab the working yarn (long piece) and pull through the loop. Hold the tail and the working yarn and pull so that the knot tightens, but make sure you still have a loop. This creates your magic ring.
Chain (ch) – To make a chain, place the yarn over the hook then pull it through the loop on your hook.
Slip stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.
Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.
Double Crochet Decrease (2dctog) – This is where you crochet two stitches together to decrease the amount of stitches in the round. So insert the hook through the front of the first stitch only (the front V) and then insert again through the front of the second stitch (the front V).
Now yarn over your hook and pull it back through both stitches, so you will then have 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over your hook again and pull through both loops. And there is your 2dctog. (Basically 2 double crochet stitches crocheted together.)
Hmm, I’m thinking you can tell I like rainbow colours from these three little chaps!!!!
Ok so here we go …
Body –
We are going to start off with the body. Now you need to use your 3mm hook for this because your stitch needs to be tight so that the stuffing doesn’t fall out. You are working in the round for the body. This is known as amigurimi.
1 – Firstly make a magic ring. Fold over the yarn to make a loop.
Insert your hook through the loop and grab the working yarn (long piece) and pull through the loop.
Hold the tail and the working yarn and pull tight to create a knot and a loop.
Now chain 1 into the ring. Do this by inserting the hook into the ring and pulling the yarn through and then pull it through the loop on the hook.
Now work 6 dc stitches into the ring.
Then slip stitch into the first stitch and pull the tail tight to create the first round. If you are unsure of how to make a slip stitch, see the stitch information above. (6)
2 – Work *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)
3 – Work *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)
4 – Work *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)
5 – Work *3dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)
6 – Work *4dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)
7 – Work *5dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (42)
8 – Work *6dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (48)
9 – Work *7dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (54)
10 – Work *8dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (60)
11 – 18 (8 rounds) For each round, work 1dc into each stitch. (60)
19 – Work *8dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. So to work a 2dctog, you are basically working 2 stitches together to create 1 stitch. It means your stitch count is reducing. (Use the stitch information above, if you are unsure of how to work a 2dctog.) (54)
20 – Work *7dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (48)
21 – Work *6dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (42)
14 – Work *5dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (36)
15 – 16 (2 rounds) For each round work 1dc into each stitch. (36)
17 – Work *4dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (30)
18 – For this round work 1dc into each stitch. (30)
19 – Work *3dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (24)
20 – 1dc in each stitch. (24)
Once you have worked round 20, you are now going to shape your octopus. In the picture above, can you see how it isn’t round. The little ridges are where you have decreased your stitch count. So all I do here is place your fingers inside the octopus and cup the outside with your hands. And work your way around.
Now stuff your little octopus with toy stuffing.
21 – Work *2dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (18)
22 – Work *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)
23 – Work *2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (6)
So now you are ready to fasten off and sew up your 6 stitches using your tapestry needle.
Tentacles –
As we are going to use 2 strands of double knit yarn, you need to use a 5mm crochet hook. Now it’s time to start the tentacles. These are going to be worked in a circle at the bottom of your octopus’s body. You can see in the picture below, I have marked out a ring showing you a rough idea as to where they need to go.
So to make your tentacles, you need to work 2 strands of double knit wool together. You can use a bigger weight yarn such as Aran yarn, but I like to use the same colour as the body. Right, so that you don’t need to buy another ball of yarn, there is a rather sneaky way of finding the inner end of the ball.
Once you’ve found it, you can pull it out to give you two strands of yarn. Now grab your hook and insert into the stitch where you want to create your first tentacle.
Now pull both strands through.
Then create your first chain, by putting the yarns over your hook and pulling it through the loop on your hook.
Now carry on working chain stitches, till you have 41. You are now going to work 2dc stitches into the second chain from the hook. This is where the arrow is pointing.
Now work 2dc stitches into each chain stitch in the tentacle.
As you work your way back up the tentacle, you will create a spiral effect.
Once you get to the end of the tentacle, slip stitch into the next stitch. (If you are unsure of how to work a slip stitch, see the stitch information at the top of the pattern.)
Now slip stitch again into the next stitch along and the start your second tentacle. So once again *chain 41 stitches.
Work 2dc in the second chain from the hook. Then work 2dc into each chain stitch in the tentacle. Now slip stitch into the next 2 stitches.*
Repeat this ** 6 more times.
Once you have your 8 tentacles, fasten off your yarn and sew you ends into the body of your octopus using your needle.
Face –
Right then, so now we are onto the face. We are going to start with the eyes. So you need your white yarn and your 3mm crochet hook. Start by making a magic ring, chaining 1 and then working 6dc into the ring and then slip stitching to the first dc to make a ring. Don’t forget to put the tail really tight to create the nice tight circle. (This is just the same as the start of the octopus’s body if you are unsure.)
Now work 2dc stitches into each stitch until you have 12 stitches. (12)
Finally work *1dc then 2dc stitches into the next stitch* and repeat this ** 6 times. Now fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail so that the eyes can be sewn on. (18)
Make sure you make two of these eyes, one after the other. It is important that you have two when you come to sew them on, as you can see exactly where you want them to be placed.
So to sew them on, grab the middle little tail and using your needle, just loosely sew the tail through to the other side and cut off the visible end. This will gently anchor the eye in place, which will make it easier for you to sew around the edges.
Ok, so now it’s time to sew around the edges of the eye using the long tail and your needle. I have sewn on many of these types of eyes in my time and I have found the best way is to work your way up and down in and out of each stitch. You can see in the picture below how I am coming back up through the next stitch. This will ensure the sewing on thread is hidden and will give a much neater finish to your project.
Once you have finished your first eye, I insert the needle through to the back of the body, where I make a simple knot (seen in the picture below) and insert that back through to the side of the body. This will ensure that the eye is anchored properly.
Now onto the second eye and sew on as before.
Make sure that you keep checking the eyes are level and placed where you want them to be. Don’t be afraid to undo and start again, if it goes a little wonky!!
Ok, so now it’s time to finish the eyes and add the finishing touches with the eyebrows and mouth. Start by threading your needle with black yarn and then knotting the end. Then thread it through from the back, through the middle of the white part of the eye. The knot at the back should be small enough to fit through the middle of a stitch so that it is hidden, but be able to nestle in the stuffing to anchor the eye in place. Now finish your eyes by working little pupils on each eye, by sewing up and over a stitch. You can make these pupils as small or as big as you like.
I seem to usually go over 2 stitches and usually sew it over about 4 times.
To work the eye brows, you can carry on using the black yarn from the eyes. So come up where you want the eyebrow to start and then literally insert it back into the stitch where you want the eye brow to end. It’s pretty simple, but very effective. Don’t make it too big, as they can get caught and snag later on!
Obviously you can make any expression you would like to, just by changing the angle of the eyebrows!
To make the smile, literally come up about two rounds under the first eye.
Then over to the second eye in the same place. Now here’s the tricky part, find the middle of the smile and make a little stitch a few rounds underneath, but make sure your stitch goes over the smile. This is to ensure the mouth is anchored down. Once again as before thread your black yarn to the back of the body, make a simple knot and then sew back through the body and cut off the end.
And here she is, little Olive Octopus.
I really hope you have enjoyed this pattern. Can’t wait to see all your Olly and Olive creations. I wonder what they would be like made up in chunky yarn!! Well any problems, just give us a shout.
Please find below the pattern in the simplest written form below.
Happy hooking everyone!!
🌈Xx
(Free pattern designed and brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it. ☺️Xx)
Octopus Pattern for all you experienced crocheters.
Body –
1 – Using your 3mm hook, make a magic ring, chain 1 and then work 6 dc stitches into the ring.
2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)
3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)
4 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)
5 – *3dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)
6 – *4dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)
7 – *5dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (42)
8 – *6dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (48)
9 – *7dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (54)
10 – *8dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (60)
11 – 18 (8 rounds) For each round, work 1dc into each stitch. (60)
19 – *8dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (54)
20 – *7dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (48)
21 – *6dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (42)
14 – *5dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (36)
15 – 16 (2 rounds) For each round work 1dc into each stitch. (36)
17 – *4dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (30)
18 – For this round work 1dc into each stitch. (30)
19 – *3dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (24)
20 – 1dc in each stitch. (24)
Once you have worked round 20, shape your octopus using your hands. Now stuff your little octopus with toy stuffing.
21 – *2dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (18)
22 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)
23 – *2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (6)
Now sew up your 6 stitches using your tapestry needle.
Tentacles –
As we are going to use 2 strands of double knit yarn, you need to use a 5mm crochet hook. Now it’s time to start the tentacles. These are going to worked in a circle at the bottom of your octopus’s body.
1 – So to make your tentacles, you need to work 2 strands of double knit wool together. You can use a bigger weights yarn such as Aran yarn, but I like to use the same colour as the body. Now grab your hook and insert into the stitch where you want to create your first tentacle. Now pull both strands through and chain 1.
Now carry on working chain stitches, till you have 41. You are now going to work 2dc stitches into the second chain from the hook.
Now work 2dc stitches into each chain stitch in the tentacle. As you work your way back up the tentacle, you will create a spiral effect.
Once you get to the end of the tentacle, slip stitch into the next stitch.
Now slip stitch again into the next stitch along and the start your second tentacle.
2 – So once again *chain 41 stitches. Work 2dc in the second chain from the hook. Then work 2dc into each chain stitch in the tentacle. Now slip stitch into the next 2 stitches.*
3 – 8 Repeat this ** 6 more times.
Once you have your 8 tentacles, fasten off your yarn and sew your ends into the body of your octopus using your tapestry needle.
Face –
Right then, so now we are onto the face.
Eyes – make 2
To make the eyes, start by making a magic ring, chaining 1 and then working 6dc into the ring and then slip stitching to the first dc to make a ring. Don’t forget to put the tail really tight to create the nice tight circle.
Now work 2dc stitches into each stitch until you have 12 stitches. (12)
Finally work *1dc then 2dc stitches into the next stitch* and repeat this ** 6 times. Now fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail so that the eyes can be sewn on. (18)
So to sew them on, grab the middle little tail and using your needle, just loosely sew the tail through to the other side and cut off the visible end. This will gently anchor the eye in place, which will make it easier for you to sew around the edges.
Ok, so now it’s time to sew around the edges of the eye using the long tail and your needle. I have sewn on many of these types of eyes in my time and I have found the best way, is to work your way up and down in and out of each stitch.
Once you have finished your first eye, I insert the needle through to the back of the body, where I make a simple knot and insert that back through to the side of the body. This will ensure that the eye is anchored properly.
Now onto the second eye and sew on as before.
Ok, so now it’s to finish the eyes and add the finishing touches with the eye brows and the mouth. Start by threading your needle with black yarn and then knitting the end. Then thread it through from the back, through the middle of the white part of the eye. The knot at the back should be small enough to fit through the middle of a stitch so that it is hidden, but be able to nestle in the stuffing the anchor the eye in place. Now finish your eyes by working little pupils on each eye, by sewing up and over a stitch. You make these pupils as small or as big as you like.
I seem to usually go over 2 stitches and usually sew it over about 4 times.
Eyebrows –
To work the eye brows, you can carry on using the black yarn from the eyes. So come up where you want the eyebrow to start and then literally insert it back into the stitch where you want the eyebrow to end. It’s pretty simple, but very effective. Don’t make it too big, as they can get caught and snag later on! Obviously you can make any expression you would like to, just by changing the angle of the eyebrows!
Smile –
To make the smile, literally come up about two rows under the first eye. Then over to the second eye in the same place. Now here’s the tricky part, find the middle of the smile and make a little stitch a few rounds underneath, but make sure your stitch goes over the smile. This is to ensure the mouth is anchored down. Once again as before thread your black yarn to the back of the body, make a simple knot and then sew back through the body and cut off the end.
And there you have it. Hope you have enjoyed this one.
Happy hooking everyone!!
🌈Xx