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Olly & Olive Octopus

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Olly and Olive Octopus

 

Meet Olly and Olive Octopus. They are two siblings who are looking for a new home. They are quite cheeky little creatures! Always getting into pickles, causing mayhem and having fun wherever they are. I’m hoping my two can keep them in order. Olly and Olive are currently hiding upstairs, ready to surprise them for their birthdays. These two are rather special, as both have been made with wool dyed by my own fair hands! Not sure if any of you remember, but my friend and I attended a hand dyeing workshop at the fabulous Toft Head Quarters. It was so much fun. Would highly recommend it!!! Can’t wait to have another go myself! I’m hoping that I can set up my own little hand dyeing station, when I have a little more time on my hands. The colour mixing and combos you can create are just incredible!! You basically need – natural yarn skeins, cling film, citric acid, gloves, apron, a washing up bowl, a microwave, hand dye in bottles and pipettes. Not forgetting a little bit of elbow grease and TLC.

This was Olive’s yarn at the beginning of the process. So here I have poured the dye from bottles onto the yarn and pressed it gently to create the rainbow effect.

For Olly’s yarn, I used pipettes to spot the yarn with the different coloured dyes. It gives a totally different effect to Olive’s yarn.

Once you have set them in the microwave and rinsed them, it’s time to hang the skeins to dry naturally.

It’s taken me a while to use this yarn. Think I wanted to use it for something special and design something to suit those yummy yarny colours. Definitely think it’s an octopus pattern kind of a colour mix. Either that or it could have been a monster or mythical creature. And I still have half a ball left!! Bonus!!

So for this pattern, I have added a little bit of extra detail and pictures, so that this can be used by a complete beginner to the world of amigurimi. I have also written it in it’s simplest terms at the bottom of the pattern for all you experienced crocheters that are already a dab hand at amigurimi. Hope you can all follow it easily. Please let me know of any problems you come across.

Supplies –

Ok so you are going to need about 50g of yarn for the main body and tentacles and then little white and black yarn for the eyes, eyebrows and mouth. You will also need, a 5mm & 3mm crochet hook, scissors and a blunt ended tapestry needle. Oh and don’t forget the toy stuffing!!

Stitches –

Magic Ring – Fold over the yarn to make the loop. Insert your hook through the loop and grab the working yarn (long piece) and pull through the loop. Hold the tail and the working yarn and pull so that the knot tightens, but make sure you still have a loop. This creates your magic ring.

Chain (ch) – To make a chain, place the yarn over the hook then pull it through the loop on your hook.

Slip stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Double Crochet Decrease (2dctog) – This is where you crochet two stitches together to decrease the amount of stitches in the round. So insert the hook through the front of the first stitch only (the front V) and then insert again through the front of the second stitch (the front V).

Now yarn over your hook and pull it back through both stitches, so you will then have 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over your hook again and pull through both loops. And there is your 2dctog. (Basically 2 double crochet stitches crocheted together.)

Hmm, I’m thinking you can tell I like rainbow colours from these three little chaps!!!!

Ok so here we go …

Body –

We are going to start off with the body. Now you need to use your 3mm hook for this because your stitch needs to be tight so that the stuffing doesn’t fall out. You are working in the round for the body. This is known as amigurimi.

1 – Firstly make a magic ring. Fold over the yarn to make a loop.

Insert your hook through the loop and grab the working yarn (long piece) and pull through the loop.

Hold the tail and the working yarn and pull tight to create a knot and a loop.

Now chain 1 into the ring. Do this by inserting the hook into the ring and pulling the yarn through and then pull it through the loop on the hook.

Now work 6 dc stitches into the ring.

Then slip stitch into the first stitch and pull the tail tight to create the first round. If you are unsure of how to make a slip stitch, see the stitch information above. (6)

2 – Work *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – Work *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – Work *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – Work *3dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

6 – Work *4dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

7 – Work *5dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (42)

8 – Work *6dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (48)

9 – Work *7dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (54)

10 – Work *8dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (60)

11 – 18 (8 rounds) For each round, work 1dc into each stitch. (60)

19 – Work *8dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. So to work a 2dctog, you are basically working 2 stitches together to create 1 stitch. It means your stitch count is reducing. (Use the stitch information above, if you are unsure of how to work a 2dctog.) (54)

20 – Work *7dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (48)

21 – Work *6dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (42)

14 – Work *5dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (36)

15 – 16 (2 rounds) For each round work 1dc into each stitch. (36)

17 – Work *4dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (30)

18 – For this round work 1dc into each stitch. (30)

19 – Work *3dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (24)

20 – 1dc in each stitch. (24)

Once you have worked round 20, you are now going to shape your octopus. In the picture above, can you see how it isn’t round. The little ridges are where you have decreased your stitch count. So all I do here is place your fingers inside the octopus and cup the outside with your hands. And work your way around.

Now stuff your little octopus with toy stuffing.

21 – Work *2dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (18)

22 – Work *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

23 – Work *2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (6)

So now you are ready to fasten off and sew up your 6 stitches using your tapestry needle.

 

Tentacles –

As we are going to use 2 strands of double knit yarn, you need to use a 5mm crochet hook. Now it’s time to start the tentacles. These are going to be worked in a circle at the bottom of your octopus’s body. You can see in the picture below, I have marked out a ring showing you a rough idea as to where they need to go.

So to make your tentacles, you need to work 2 strands of double knit wool together. You can use a bigger weight yarn such as Aran yarn, but I like to use the same colour as the body. Right, so that you don’t need to buy another ball of yarn, there is a rather sneaky way of finding the inner end of the ball.

Once you’ve found it, you can pull it out to give you two strands of yarn. Now grab your hook and insert into the stitch where you want to create your first tentacle.

Now pull both strands through.

Then create your first chain, by putting the yarns over your hook and pulling it through the loop on your hook.

Now carry on working chain stitches, till you have 41. You are now going to work 2dc stitches into the second chain from the hook. This is where the arrow is pointing.

Now work 2dc stitches into each chain stitch in the tentacle.

As you work your way back up the tentacle, you will create a spiral effect.

Once you get to the end of the tentacle, slip stitch into the next stitch. (If you are unsure of how to work a slip stitch, see the stitch information at the top of the pattern.)

Now slip stitch again into the next stitch along and the start your second tentacle. So once again *chain 41 stitches.

Work 2dc in the second chain from the hook. Then work 2dc into each chain stitch in the tentacle. Now slip stitch into the next 2 stitches.*

Repeat this ** 6 more times.

Once you have your 8 tentacles, fasten off your yarn and sew you ends into the body of your octopus using your needle.

Face –

Right then, so now we are onto the face. We are going to start with the eyes. So you need your white yarn and your 3mm crochet hook. Start by making a magic ring, chaining 1 and then working 6dc into the ring and then slip stitching to the first dc to make a ring. Don’t forget to put the tail really tight to create the nice tight circle. (This is just the same as the start of the octopus’s body if you are unsure.)

Now work 2dc stitches into each stitch until you have 12 stitches. (12)

Finally work *1dc then 2dc stitches into the next stitch* and repeat this ** 6 times. Now fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail so that the eyes can be sewn on. (18)

Make sure you make two of these eyes, one after the other. It is important that you have two when you come to sew them on, as you can see exactly where you want them to be placed.

So to sew them on, grab the middle little tail and using your needle, just loosely sew the tail through to the other side and cut off the visible end. This will gently anchor the eye in place, which will make it easier for you to sew around the edges.

Ok, so now it’s time to sew around the edges of the eye using the long tail and your needle. I have sewn on many of these types of eyes in my time and I have found the best way is to work your way up and down in and out of each stitch. You can see in the picture below how I am coming back up through the next stitch. This will ensure the sewing on thread is hidden and will give a much neater finish to your project.

Once you have finished your first eye, I insert the needle through to the back of the body, where I make a simple knot (seen in the picture below) and insert that back through to the side of the body. This will ensure that the eye is anchored properly.

Now onto the second eye and sew on as before.

Make sure that you keep checking the eyes are level and placed where you want them to be. Don’t be afraid to undo and start again, if it goes a little wonky!!

Ok, so now it’s time to finish the eyes and add the finishing touches with the eyebrows and mouth. Start by threading your needle with black yarn and then knotting the end. Then thread it through from the back, through the middle of the white part of the eye. The knot at the back should be small enough to fit through the middle of a stitch so that it is hidden, but be able to nestle in the stuffing to anchor the eye in place. Now finish your eyes by working little pupils on each eye, by sewing up and over a stitch. You can make these pupils as small or as big as you like.

I seem to usually go over 2 stitches and usually sew it over about 4 times.

To work the eye brows, you can carry on using the black yarn from the eyes. So come up where you want the eyebrow to start and then literally insert it back into the stitch where you want the eye brow to end. It’s pretty simple, but very effective. Don’t make it too big, as they can get caught and snag later on!

Obviously you can make any expression you would like to, just by changing the angle of the eyebrows!

To make the smile, literally come up about two rounds under the first eye.

Then over to the second eye in the same place. Now here’s the tricky part, find the middle of the smile and make a little stitch a few rounds underneath, but make sure your stitch goes over the smile. This is to ensure the mouth is anchored down. Once again as before thread your black yarn to the back of the body, make a simple knot and then sew back through the body and cut off the end.

And here she is, little Olive Octopus.

I really hope you have enjoyed this pattern. Can’t wait to see all your Olly and Olive creations. I wonder what they would be like made up in chunky yarn!! Well any problems, just give us a shout.

Please find below the pattern in the simplest written form below.

Happy hooking everyone!!

🌈Xx

(Free pattern designed and brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it. ☺️Xx)

 

Octopus Pattern for all you experienced crocheters.

Body –

1 – Using your 3mm hook, make a magic ring, chain 1 and then work 6 dc stitches into the ring.

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – *3dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

6 – *4dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

7 – *5dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (42)

8 – *6dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (48)

9 – *7dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (54)

10 – *8dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (60)

11 – 18 (8 rounds) For each round, work 1dc into each stitch. (60)

19 – *8dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (54)

20 – *7dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (48)

21 – *6dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (42)

14 – *5dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (36)

15 – 16 (2 rounds) For each round work 1dc into each stitch. (36)

17 – *4dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (30)

18 – For this round work 1dc into each stitch. (30)

19 – *3dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (24)

20 – 1dc in each stitch. (24)

Once you have worked round 20, shape your octopus using your hands. Now stuff your little octopus with toy stuffing.

21 – *2dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (18)

22 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

23 – *2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (6)

Now sew up your 6 stitches using your tapestry needle.

Tentacles –

As we are going to use 2 strands of double knit yarn, you need to use a 5mm crochet hook. Now it’s time to start the tentacles. These are going to worked in a circle at the bottom of your octopus’s body.

1 – So to make your tentacles, you need to work 2 strands of double knit wool together. You can use a bigger weights yarn such as Aran yarn, but I like to use the same colour as the body. Now grab your hook and insert into the stitch where you want to create your first tentacle. Now pull both strands through and chain 1.

Now carry on working chain stitches, till you have 41. You are now going to work 2dc stitches into the second chain from the hook.

Now work 2dc stitches into each chain stitch in the tentacle. As you work your way back up the tentacle, you will create a spiral effect.

Once you get to the end of the tentacle, slip stitch into the next stitch.

Now slip stitch again into the next stitch along and the start your second tentacle.

2 – So once again *chain 41 stitches. Work 2dc in the second chain from the hook. Then work 2dc into each chain stitch in the tentacle. Now slip stitch into the next 2 stitches.*

3 – 8 Repeat this ** 6 more times.

Once you have your 8 tentacles, fasten off your yarn and sew your ends into the body of your octopus using your tapestry needle.

Face –

Right then, so now we are onto the face.

Eyes – make 2

To make the eyes, start by making a magic ring, chaining 1 and then working 6dc into the ring and then slip stitching to the first dc to make a ring. Don’t forget to put the tail really tight to create the nice tight circle.

Now work 2dc stitches into each stitch until you have 12 stitches. (12)

Finally work *1dc then 2dc stitches into the next stitch* and repeat this ** 6 times. Now fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail so that the eyes can be sewn on. (18)

So to sew them on, grab the middle little tail and using your needle, just loosely sew the tail through to the other side and cut off the visible end. This will gently anchor the eye in place, which will make it easier for you to sew around the edges.

Ok, so now it’s time to sew around the edges of the eye using the long tail and your needle. I have sewn on many of these types of eyes in my time and I have found the best way, is to work your way up and down in and out of each stitch.

Once you have finished your first eye, I insert the needle through to the back of the body, where I make a simple knot and insert that back through to the side of the body. This  will ensure that the eye is anchored properly.

Now onto the second eye and sew on as before.

Ok, so now it’s to finish the eyes and add the finishing touches with the eye brows and the mouth. Start by threading your needle with black yarn and then knitting the end. Then thread it through from the back, through the middle of the white part of the eye. The knot at the back should be small enough to fit through the middle of a stitch so that it is hidden, but be able to nestle in the stuffing the anchor the eye in place. Now finish your eyes by working little pupils on each eye, by sewing up and over a stitch. You make these pupils as small or as big as you like.

I seem to usually go over 2 stitches and usually sew it over about 4 times.

Eyebrows –

To work the eye brows, you can carry on using the black yarn from the eyes. So come up where you want the eyebrow to start and then literally insert it back into the stitch where you want the eyebrow to end. It’s pretty simple, but very effective. Don’t make it too big, as they can get caught and snag later on! Obviously you can make any expression you would like to, just by changing the angle of the eyebrows!

Smile –

To make the smile, literally come up about two rows under the first eye. Then over to the second eye in the same place. Now here’s the tricky part, find the middle of the smile and make a little stitch a few rounds underneath, but make sure your stitch goes over the smile. This is to ensure the mouth is anchored down. Once again as before thread your black yarn to the back of the body, make a simple knot and then sew back through the body and cut off the end.

And there you have it. Hope you have enjoyed this one.

Happy hooking everyone!!

🌈Xx

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Patterns

Rudolph the Reindeer Pattern

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Master Rudolf 


Well it just had to be done, didn’t it. I’ve been wanting to make a reindeer for ages. They are one of those childhood animals that just fills me with joy and the magicalness of Christmas. Don’t you just love them! They seem to have such an air of mystery and grandeur. So one definitely needed to find its way into the PipsRainbow family.

Master Rudolf here, has a rather large round belly and is extremely cuddly. (My lovely sister pointed out, that he has obviously eaten one too many mince pies! 😂)  Poor Rudolf! Mince pies and crocheting – now there’s a thought! Right getting back to crocheting, it’s quite a simple pattern using mainly the double crochet stitch. So you will be able to make him up quite quickly. Maybe even sneak one under the tree for a little someone special or let him be found as a new friend on Christmas Eve. Some households have little pyjama elves. Wouldn’t it be magical to have this little guy sitting on top of the pile!

So the pattern is crocheting in the round, so amiguirimi style. So no need to slip stitch and chain for each round, just work in a lovely simple spiral. Don’t forget though, to use your stitch markers to help you – so important. I know a few people now that have got themselves into a pickle, because they thought they could count where they were. If you are anything like me, and you crochet on the hoof, so a stitch marker is the most valuable thing ever!!

As this is a simple spiral pattern, I have kept the post quite simple. With only a few photos where extra help maybe needed. If you are struggling with something, please don’t hesitate to contact me and I can send you photos in full of what you need to do. I think the trickiest bit is the antlers, as you need to split your rounds, but once you have done it a few times it will become second nature.

I have used a variety of photos for this blog post. Some of them are from a dk reindeer and others are from my 2 or 3 dk multi-strand reindeers. So hope they all make sense to you.

Stitches –

Magic Ring (mr) – For a magic ring, make a loop with the yarn, leaving a tail. (Make sure the tail is under the working yarn.) Now insert your hook into the loop, from the front to the back. Wrap the working yarn around your hook and pull the yarn through and pull tight to create a ring.

Slip stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Double Crochet Decrease (2dctog) – This is where you crochet two stitches together to decrease the amount of stitches in the round. So insert the hook through the front of the first stitch only (the front V) and then insert again through the front of the second stitch (the front V). Now yarn over your hook and pull it back through both stitches, so you will then have 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over your hook again and pull through both loops. And there is your 2dctog. (Basically 2 double crochet stitches crocheted together.)

Splitting rounds – This is when you need to split a round to create 2 or more rounds. (In this patterns case – the antlers) First you need to count back the number of stitches that the pattern states, then move the crocheting so the first of these back stitches is in front of you. Now crochet into this stitch from the right side. Complete this first round with the number that the pattern states and fasten off. You will then need to go back to the original stitch and complete the next split round.

Colour change – When changing from one colour to the other, always change on the last stitch on the previous stitch. For the last stitch complete the first part of the stitch – so hook through stitch, yarn over the hook then pull back through. Now instead of using the same yarn, change to the new yarn, yarn over hook and pull through the two loops on your hook. Now you are ready to carry on with the next round in your new yarn.

 

Supplies –

For all sizes of your reindeer you will need toy stuffing, blunt ended tapestry needle, a small amount of black yarn (for the face), a small amount of red yarn for the nose and also some cream/white for the muzzle. (You can use dk black yarn for any of the sizes of reindeers. As you are only using it for face features and not crocheting with it, you don’t need to change the weight each time.) You also need a small amount of dark brown yarn for the hooves, a 25g ball would be plenty. The main body, face and legs can be in the colour of your choice. Usually a pale brown, beige or grey would be nice for a reindeer.

For a small sized reindeer you will need a 3mm crochet hook with one 100g ball of dk yarn for the main body, head and legs.

A medium sized one, on the other hand, is an Aran weight yarn. So use a 5mm hook with about 200g of the main body colour. Don’t forget, if you are using aran weight, then the red and brown need to be aran weight too. (You could also use 2 dk yarns together which would give you a similar size, but use a 6mm hook.)

A large sized reindeer you would use a chunky weight yarn with an 8mm hook. Now if you don’t want to use chunky weight yarn and you have 3 x 100g balls of similar/same colours then you can make him in a multi strand yarn like I have. So 3 dk strands together. I use a 9mm hook and I think it gives a lovely texture. For my Rudolf, I have used 3 strands of similar coloured dk soft wool.

Don’t forget if you find a stitch or method you are unsure about – you can find a description of them above in the stitches section or on one of the tutorials.

So here we go…

Body – make in your main light brown/grey yarn.

1 – Make a magic ring, chain 1, then dc6 into the ring. Then pull the tail tight to create the first round. (6)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – *3dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

6 – *4dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

7 – *5dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (42)

8 – 11 For each round, 1dc in each stitch. (42)

12 – *5dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (See stitches explanation above if you are unsure of 2dctog.) (36)

13 – Work 1dc into each stitch. (36)

14 – *4dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (30)

15 – 17 Crochet 1dc into each stitch. (30)

18 – *3dc, then 2dctog. Work ** 6 times. (24)

19 – *6dc, then 2dctog .* Work ** 3 times. (21)

20 – *5dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times.(18)

21 – *4dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times.(15)

22 – *3dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times.(12)

23 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 3 times. (9)

Now it’s time to stuff your body with toy stuffing, sew up and fasten off your body using the blunt ended tapestry needle.

 

Head – start the head in your main light brown colour and move to your cream yarn for the muzzle.

1 – Make a magic ring, chain 1 then, dc6 into the ring. Pull the tail tight to create the ring. (6)

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – *3dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

6 – 10 Crochet 1dc in each stitch. (30)

11 – *3dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

12 – *2dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

13 – Change colour to a cream/white in last dc of the previous round then work 1dc into each stitch. (18)

14 – In the next few rounds, you need to follow each stitch carefully. So work 2dctog, 2dc in next 5 stitches, dc, 2dctog, dc, 2dc in next 5 stitches, 2dctog. (25)

15 – 2dctog, 2dctog, 2dc into each stitch x 5, 1dc, 2dctog, 1dc, 2dctog, 1dc, 2dc in each stitch x 5, 2dctog, 2dctog. (29)

16 – Work 2dctog, 2dctog, 2dc, 2dctog, 2dc, 2dctog, 2dctog, 1dc, 2dctog, 2dctog, 2dc, 2dctog, 2dc, 2dctog, 2dctog. (19)

17 – Work 2dctog 9 times, then 1dc. (10)

18 – Work 2dctog 5 times. (5)

Now slip stitch into the next stitch, stuff with toy stuffing and sew up using a blunt ended tapestry needle. You could now attach this to the top of the body if you want to.

 

Hooves and legs  – make 4 hooves using a dark brown yarn, then work the legs in your light brown.

1 – Make a magic ring, chain 1, then dc6 into the ring. (6)

2 – 2dc into each stitch. (12)

3 – 5 Work 1dc into each stitch. (12)

6 – *2dc, 2dctog* Work ** 3 times. (9)
Change colour in last stitch of the previous round to the main light brown colour.

7 – 18 Crochet 1dc into each stitch. (9)

Now slip stitch & fasten off leaving a tail for you to sew the leg onto the body.

 

Red nose – make 1 and use your red yarn.

1- Make a magic ring, then chain 1 and 6dc into the ring. Then pull the tail tight to create the ring into a round. (6)

2 – *2dc, 2dc into next stitch.* Work ** 2 times. (8)

3 – Work 1dc in each stitch. (8)

4 – Now crochet 2dctog 4 times. (4)

Slip stitch, then fasten off leaving a tail and then sew the nose onto your head. If you want to add a little toy stuffing in the nose then you can.

 

Ears – make 2 using a light brown yarn.

1 – Make a magic ring, then chain 1 and 4dc into the ring.

2 – Dc into each stitch. (4)

3 – *2dc in each stitch.* Work ** 4 times. (8)

4 – *1dc, then 2dc into next stitch.* Work 4 times. (12)

5 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work 4 times. (8)

6 – 1dc into each stitch. (8)

 

Antlers – make 2 using dark brown yarn.

For the first part of the antler. 

1 – Chain 6 & slip stitch into a ring. (6)

2 – 5 Work 1dc into each stitch. (6)

 

6 – Chain 1 and split the round by counting back 3 stitches. This means with the chain 1 you will have 4 stitches to play with. So 4 stitches will be in this particular round. So you can see below the 4 stitches.

Insert your hook into the first of the 4 stitches. Hope you can see that here!

Then 1dc in each of the 4 stitches. (4)

7 – Then again work 1dc in each of the 4 stitches. (4)

8 – Now crochet 2dctog twice, slip stitch into the next stitch and seal up and fasten off using a tapestry needle. (2)

For the second part of the antler. 

1 – Attach your yarn into the original first stitch with a chain then 1dc (there will be 2 double crochet stitches in there then!)

Now work 1dc into next 3 stitches. (4)

2 – Then go back across to your original dc and 1 dc in each stitch again. (4)

 

3 – Chain 2, then as before split the round by counting back 2 stitches. This will give you 4 stitches as you can see in the picture below. Now crochet 1dc into these 4 stitches. (4)

4 – As before, dc2tog twice to give you 2 stitches, then slip stitch and sew up & fasten off using a blunt ended needle. (2)

For the final part of the antler. 

Now the final part is just a little bit more fiddly.

1 – Attach your yarn into the original first stitch with 1 chain, then dc (there will be 2 in there then!)

Then dc into next 3 stitches. (4)

2 – 1dc into each stitch. (4)

3 – Now crochet 2dctog twice, slip stitch and seal up & fasten off. Thread the tail that isn’t left through the antlers to the base, where you will be able to sew the antlers onto the reindeer.

Now it’s time to sew up all your parts together. Some people prefer to pin them in place, before they sew them on, but I just tend to line them up and go for it. Some people find the sewing up bit the hard part, but I think the more little creatures you make, the easier it will become. My husband thinks I’m making a crocheted army. It’s does look a bit like that on playroom sofa!

Now that you have sewn it all together, you can crochet the tail.

Tail – make using the main light brown yarn or you could even mix with some cream yarn too.

So first of all, attach your tail yarn, by inserting your hook through one of the stitches in the back. Make a slip knot with your tail yarn and then pull this through with your hook. (Making a slip knot with your tail yarn, will make it quite secure.)

Once you have pulled it through, place your yarn over the hook and pull it through the stitch. This is your first chain. Now chain 19 more.

You now need to attach your chain of 20. So choose the stitch you want to attach it to and insert your hook. Place your yarn over your hook and pull it back through the top of your chains. This makes it into a loop, which gives you your first strand of tail hair. If you clump all your tail hair chains together, it will make a  lovely reindeer tail.

Now carry on making and attaching these chains till you feel you have enough. Don’t worry if some of your chains aren’t quite 20 or are more, it will be nice if some of the hair strands are different lengths anyway!

And now for the fun part. The eyes, eyebrows and smile. You need your black yarn, needle and scissors. (Don’t forget you can make the expression anyway you like.)

For the eyes. Attach by knotting one end and threading it through a gap in between a stitch at the back of the body. This will hide the end. Now pull the needle through where you would like the eye to be. I tend to sew over one stitch to make the eye and sew over this stitch about 5 times. You can add eyebrows in the same way but with one stitch.

I love the simpleness of the eyebrows. They can make such a difference to a face!!

 

For the mouth. Pull the yarn through where you would like the mouth to start then thread back through where you want the mouth to finish.

Now here’s the tricky part. You now need to anchor the mouth in the middle to make it a smile. So simply push the yarn back up in the middle of the mouth by one stitch lower, go over the top of the mouth, then back through the same stitch. This will give you the smile. Again simple, but effective. Here is the same smile being made on Smiles, the little travelling companion.

I wonder if Smiles and Master Rudolf are going to become firm friends in our household. I’m sure they will get up to some mischief!!

Well I hope you have enjoyed my Rudolf post and hopefully enjoy making up your own little reindeer. Don’t forget you can make him in any yarn and weight you wish. Just make sure you get the correct hook size. Can’t wait to see any creations that you make!! Remember to hash tag #pipsrainbow

And may I take this opportunity to wish you a very Merry Christmas!!!

Happy hooking!!

🌈Xx

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