Anyone for an Advent Pattern?

Well chaps, I have been drooling over this year’s advent calendar from Abby at Orchidean Luxury Yarn and wondering what to create. So couldn’t resist sharing last years creation with you. I have worn this little lady, for most of this year. Yep, sun and snow, wind and rain, it seems to have been with me.

Soot the rainbow blanket on the beach..

Possibly has become my comfort blanket, but let’s not get into that! Haha.

This year’s colours are so incredible. They are rich and vibrant and I am sure will create a mega shawl for me daughter. She is so excited. I wrapped up Abby’s advent under the tree.

She couldn’t believe her eyes on Christmas Day that she will be getting a rainbow shawl. Just need to let the creating cogs get going on that one. (And finish a pair of advent socks, before hand.) Here’s the link for Abby’s next years advent. You can clink the link to notify you when it’s up for preorder.

https://luxuryyarns.co.uk/product-category/special-offers/seasonal/

I will be creating & writing up a pattern for this year’s advent soon, but until then, here is the pattern and then as a printable download too.

The pattern follows an 8 row repeat, creating a beautiful & elegant shawl. 

Now I have used Abby’s advent from last year for this one, but you can use any advent yarn that you have or even use some of your own yarn stash. It would be a great shawl to use up odds & ends with. Ooo, think of the possibilities. Exciting.

Right, here we go.

Level â€“ Medium

Yarn â€“ 450g of 4ply yarn. You can use any colour way that you like. I decided to create mine into a rainbow effect using my advent yarn, but you can work it up in any colour way that you like. (It even goes well in one variegated colour.)

Hook

4mm crochet hook

Notions –

Scissors, darning needle for sewing in ends.

Finished size –

Wingspan – 280cm  Centre spine depth – 120cm

It uses 13 times 8 row repeats plus border. (You can create this scarf in any size you like. Just adapt the pattern by using increasing or decreasing the number of 8 row repeats.) 

Free Printable Downloadable –

Fasten off – slip stitch into the last stitch you have worked, pull through & cut yarn.

Attach yarn â€“ Insert hook into the stitch, new yarn over hook & pull through the stitch. 

Abbreviations – 

mr – Magic Ring 

ch – Chain 

ch2sp – Chain 2 Space 

dc – Double Crochet 

htr – Half Treble Crochet

blhtr – Back Loop Half Treble Crochet

tr – Treble Crochet

bltr –Back Loop Treble Crochet 

Pattern – 

1 – Make a mr, ch3, then work 3tr into the ring, then ch2 & work 4tr stitches into the ring. Then pull the tail tight. (I tend to make a little knot here, to keep the mr closed.)

2 – Turn your work, ch3, 2tr in the first stitch, then 1tr in each tr stitch in the row. Then work 1tr, ch2, 1tr in the ch2sp. Work 1tr in each stitch in the row, finally working 2tr in the top of the ch3 from the previous row.

3 – Turn your work, ch3, 2tr in the first stitch, then 1tr in each stitch in the row. Then work 1tr, ch2, 1tr in the ch2sp. Work 1tr in each stitch in the row. Finally work 2tr in the top of the ch3 from the previous row.

4 – 7 (4 rows) *Turn your work, ch3, 2bltr in the first stitch, then 1bltr each stitch in the row. Then work 1tr, ch2, 1tr in the ch2sp. Work 1bltr in each stitch. Finally work 2bltr in the top of the ch3 from the previous row.* Work ** four times.

8 – Turn your work, ch3, 2tr in the first stitch, then 1tr in each stitch in the row. Then work 1tr, ch2, 1tr in the ch2sp. Now work 1tr in each stitch in the row. Finally work 2tr in the top of the ch3 from the previous row.

9 – Turn your work, ch3, work 2tr in the first stitch. *Now ch1, miss 1 stitch & work 1tr in the next stitch.* Work ** across the row. Then work 1tr, ch2, 1tr in the ch2sp. Now work 1tr in the first stitch. *Now ch1, miss 1 stitch & work 1tr in the next stitch.* Work ** across the row. Work 2tr in the top of the ch3 from the previous row.  

10 – Turn your work & ch3.  Now work 2tr in the first stitch, then 1tr in the next 2 stitches. Work 1tr in the first ch1sp. *Now work 1tr in the next stitch & in the next ch1sp.* Work ** across the row. Finish the row with 1tr in the last 2 stitches. Work 1tr, ch2, 1tr in the ch2sp. Then work 1tr in the first stitch in the row. *Now work 1tr in the next stitch, then 1tr in the next ch1sp.* Work ** across the row. Finish the row by working 1tr in the last 2 stitches, then 2tr in the top of ch3 from the previous row. 

Now it’s time to repeat the last 8 rows. So repeat rows 3 – 10, 12 more times.

Border – 

1 – 2 (2 rows) *Turn your work, ch3, 2tr in the first stitch, then 1tr in each stitch. Then in the ch2sp work 1tr, ch2, 1tr. Now work 1tr in each stitch in the row. Finally work 2tr in the top of the chain 3 from the previous row.* Work ** twice. 

3 – Now turn your work, ch1, 2dc in the first stitch, then 1dc in each stitch. Work 1dc, ch2, 1dc in the ch2sp. Now work 1dc in each stitch in the row. Finally work 2dc in the top of the chain 3 from the previous row.

4 – This is your final row. Turn your work, ch2 & work 2blhtr in the first stitch, then work 1blhtr in each stitch in the row. Work 1htr, ch2, 1htr in the ch2sp. Now work 1blhtr into each stitch in the row, finally working 2blhtr in the top of the chain 1 from the previous row.

Finishing off –

Now it’s time to sew in your ends using a darning needle & block your finished shawl. I tend to use sponge floor tiles and long headed/T pins for this. 

I really hope you have enjoyed this pattern. My Advent Shawl comes everywhere with me. It has been used as a shawl, scarf, a blanket to keep little ones warm & even in a rescue mission with a dog lead once! Don’t ask!! Haha, you can safely say that I love it & will be treasured forever. 

Care – When washing, ensure you follow the instructions on the label of the yarn you are using & be as gentle as you can. Once gently washed, I will always reshape mine back into place. 

Don’t forget to share any pics with us of your fabulous shawl on the good old fashioned net. Tag us in on Instagram, Facebook, You Tube & Twitter @pipsrainbow & #pipsrainbow.    

Happy hooking. Xx 

(Please note this pattern has been test crocheted, but not tech edited. But every attempt has been made for it to be easy to follow and free from mistake. It is for personal use only. Any questions, happy to help.)

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How to sew up your creations.


Sewing up your little creations is nearly as important as crocheting them in the first place. That little bit of extra time that you take & the attention to detail, can really make the difference. It’s the little things like making sure the eyes are sewn on, in line to each other and the head is attached securely in place so that it doesn’t flop forward.

So here is a little explanation as to how I sew mine up. Hope it helps.

You will need – pair of scissors & a darning needle. With the faces you may need some black thread or safety eyes/noses, but the pattern will inform you of this.

I start by checking all the pieces are present and correct. I know it sounds daft, but it’s rather annoying when you are all set up to sew your toy and you are missing an ear or an arm. Trust me, it’s happened, it’s annoying.

So after many slightly wonky sewn up crocheted toys, I have come to the conclusion that the best place to start is the legs. If you attach both legs first, arms, then the head, the whole toy seems to come together easier.

Right, so first things first, the legs. You just need to make sure you keep checking the angle they are sitting at to each other and that you sew all sides of them on securely. With the legs, I just tend to pick up the last stitch on the leg itself, with the thread and sew in onto the body. So using your tail of yarn and darning needle, attach the legs to the body as seen in the picture below. Can you see how I am picking up the last stitch of the leg and one of the stitches on the body. Always making sure that I work the whole way around.

Keep checking the angle to check they look like my little unicorn legs in the picture above. At the end, sew the yarn all the way through the body and out the other side. You can do a little knot and insert it back into the body and push the needle out the other side. This will really give you a secure attachment and ensure that the end wont come out of the body.

You will use technique to sew all your body parts on. It is ever so easy, once you get the hang of it.

Now it is time for the arms. These are sewn on the same as the legs, but either side of the body. I tend to sew them on about an inch from the top. It also gives a nice little base for the head. Don’t forget to sew all the way around the arm, top and underneath. This will ensure it doesn’t fall off. How traumatic would that be!! As before, keep checking the alignment with the legs, to ensure it looks correct.

Head next. Right align your head onto the body. Making sure the nose, if you have one, is in the middle. You may have noticed there are no antennas or ears yet sewn on our head yet. This is due to the fact that they need to go on at the end of the sewing up process. (Once again, I have learnt from experience – if you sew them on before, it’s really hard to line up all the body parts i.e wonky toys!!) Make sure you really anchor the head down so that it stays upright & doesn’t flop. I keep going, in and out at the side of the neck, all the way around, to ensure it stays put.

Antennas and ears next. Both sewn up around the base of each. Keep checking your alignment! 

Now, if your pattern asks for them, sew the eyelids in place, using the same technique. As the eyes go on top of the eyelids, you will find the eyes easier to align. 

So if you are using safety eyes, attach these to your eye bases first. You need to make sure you have them in the correct place, because once you have pushed the backs on, it’s very hard to get them off.

So keep looking and checking that you are happy. Remember the dome on the back of the safety eye faces out. 

Now just sew each one in place over half the the eyelid. 

Once both eyelids are secure, I tend to then sew the eyelid slightly over the eye, to ensure it encases the middle of the eye. You can see what I mean by the photo below. 

To work the eyebrows, you can carry on using the black yarn from the eyes. Using your darning needle and a long thread of black yarn, with a knot at the end. Work from the back of the head through to the front, ensuring you come up where you want the eyebrow to start, then literally insert it back into the stitch where you want the eyebrow to end. It’s pretty simple, but very effective. Don’t make it too big, as they can get caught and snag later on! Obviously you can make any expression you would like to, just by changing the angle of the eyebrows!

Now if you are using black thread to create your eyes, you need to use a darning needle and black thread. I tend to use 4ply black cotton yarn. This is done the same way as the mouth & eyebrow, but you work your thread over one or two crocheted stitches. I tend to go over 3 or 4 times. Once again as before thread your black yarn to the back of the body, make a simple knot and then sew back through the body and cut off the end.

To make the smile, literally come up about two rounds under the first eye. Then over to the second eye in the same place. Now here’s the tricky part, find the middle of the smile and make a little stitch a few rounds underneath, but make sure your stitch goes over the smile. This is to ensure the mouth is anchored down. Here’s a little smile being made of Kevin the Carrot.

Sometimes, a pattern may ask you to use a safety nose. This is attached exactly the same as the safety eye.

Another pattern may ask you to create an owl beak. Here’s a simple picture tutorial on how to do this. You use the same method, as the eye/mouth/eyebrow, by inserting a long piece of thread, knotted at the end. Don’t forget, you always insert it at the back of the head, so the yarn is more secure. (The knot will sit in the stuffing and not be near the front of the head.)

Some patterns may ask for a chain tail. My little Esmo the Elephant has a little chain tail. Here’s how to make one.

For the tail, insert your hook where you want the tail to be. Make a slip knot in your grey yarn, then yarn over your hook and pull the yarn through. Place both yarn and tail over the hook and make a chain. Now ch20, then ss back into the body. Ch20 and once again ss back into the body. Finally ch20 and ss back into the body and this time fasten off your yarn and sew in your ends using your darning needle.

And there you have it. I hope this has helped you. If I add a pattern to my website with a different technique required, I will add it here. Any questions, just shout.

Happy hooking.

🌈Xx

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