Olly & Olive Octopus

Olly and Olive Octopus

 

Meet Olly and Olive Octopus. They are two siblings who are looking for a new home. They are quite cheeky little creatures! Always getting into pickles, causing mayhem and having fun wherever they are. I’m hoping my two can keep them in order. Olly and Olive are currently hiding upstairs, ready to surprise them for their birthdays. These two are rather special, as both have been made with wool dyed by my own fair hands! Not sure if any of you remember, but my friend and I attended a hand dyeing workshop at the fabulous Toft Head Quarters. It was so much fun. Would highly recommend it!!! Can’t wait to have another go myself! I’m hoping that I can set up my own little hand dyeing station, when I have a little more time on my hands. The colour mixing and combos you can create are just incredible!! You basically need – natural yarn skeins, cling film, citric acid, gloves, apron, a washing up bowl, a microwave, hand dye in bottles and pipettes. Not forgetting a little bit of elbow grease and TLC.

This was Olive’s yarn at the beginning of the process. So here I have poured the dye from bottles onto the yarn and pressed it gently to create the rainbow effect.

For Olly’s yarn, I used pipettes to spot the yarn with the different coloured dyes. It gives a totally different effect to Olive’s yarn.

Once you have set them in the microwave and rinsed them, it’s time to hang the skeins to dry naturally.

It’s taken me a while to use this yarn. Think I wanted to use it for something special and design something to suit those yummy yarny colours. Definitely think it’s an octopus pattern kind of a colour mix. Either that or it could have been a monster or mythical creature. And I still have half a ball left!! Bonus!!

So for this pattern, I have added a little bit of extra detail and pictures, so that this can be used by a complete beginner to the world of amigurimi. I have also written it in it’s simplest terms at the bottom of the pattern for all you experienced crocheters that are already a dab hand at amigurimi. Hope you can all follow it easily. Please let me know of any problems you come across.

Supplies

Ok so you are going to need about 50g of yarn for the main body and tentacles and then little white and black yarn for the eyes, eyebrows and mouth. You will also need, a 5mm & 3mm crochet hook, scissors and a blunt ended tapestry needle. Oh and don’t forget the toy stuffing!!

Stitches

Magic Ring – Fold over the yarn to make the loop. Insert your hook through the loop and grab the working yarn (long piece) and pull through the loop. Hold the tail and the working yarn and pull so that the knot tightens, but make sure you still have a loop. This creates your magic ring.

Chain (ch) – To make a chain, place the yarn over the hook then pull it through the loop on your hook.

Slip stitch (ss) – This is where there is no height to the stitch. It’s usually used to join rounds. So insert the hook into the front of the stitch you are joining to. This is usually the first stitch you made in that round/row. So yarn over hook and pull through that first stitch then also through the loop on your hook.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Double Crochet Decrease (2dctog) – This is where you crochet two stitches together to decrease the amount of stitches in the round. So insert the hook through the front of the first stitch only (the front V) and then insert again through the front of the second stitch (the front V).

Now yarn over your hook and pull it back through both stitches, so you will then have 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over your hook again and pull through both loops. And there is your 2dctog. (Basically 2 double crochet stitches crocheted together.)

Hmm, I’m thinking you can tell I like rainbow colours from these three little chaps!!!!

Ok so here we go …

Body

We are going to start off with the body. Now you need to use your 3mm hook for this because your stitch needs to be tight so that the stuffing doesn’t fall out. You are working in the round for the body. This is known as amigurimi.

1 – Firstly make a magic ring. Fold over the yarn to make a loop.

Insert your hook through the loop and grab the working yarn (long piece) and pull through the loop.

Hold the tail and the working yarn and pull tight to create a knot and a loop.

Now chain 1 into the ring. Do this by inserting the hook into the ring and pulling the yarn through and then pull it through the loop on the hook.

Now work 6 dc stitches into the ring.

Then slip stitch into the first stitch and pull the tail tight to create the first round. If you are unsure of how to make a slip stitch, see the stitch information above. (6)

2 – Work *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – Work *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – Work *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – Work *3dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

6 – Work *4dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

7 – Work *5dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (42)

8 – Work *6dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (48)

9 – Work *7dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (54)

10 – Work *8dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (60)

11 – 18 (8 rounds) For each round, work 1dc into each stitch. (60)

19 – Work *8dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. So to work a 2dctog, you are basically working 2 stitches together to create 1 stitch. It means your stitch count is reducing. (Use the stitch information above, if you are unsure of how to work a 2dctog.) (54)

20 – Work *7dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (48)

21 – Work *6dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (42)

14 – Work *5dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (36)

15 – 16 (2 rounds) For each round work 1dc into each stitch. (36)

17 – Work *4dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (30)

18 – For this round work 1dc into each stitch. (30)

19 – Work *3dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (24)

20 – 1dc in each stitch. (24)

Once you have worked round 20, you are now going to shape your octopus. In the picture above, can you see how it isn’t round. The little ridges are where you have decreased your stitch count. So all I do here is place your fingers inside the octopus and cup the outside with your hands. And work your way around.

Now stuff your little octopus with toy stuffing.

21 – Work *2dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (18)

22 – Work *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

23 – Work *2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (6)

So now you are ready to fasten off and sew up your 6 stitches using your tapestry needle.

 

Tentacles

As we are going to use 2 strands of double knit yarn, you need to use a 5mm crochet hook. Now it’s time to start the tentacles. These are going to be worked in a circle at the bottom of your octopus’s body. You can see in the picture below, I have marked out a ring showing you a rough idea as to where they need to go.

So to make your tentacles, you need to work 2 strands of double knit wool together. You can use a bigger weight yarn such as Aran yarn, but I like to use the same colour as the body. Right, so that you don’t need to buy another ball of yarn, there is a rather sneaky way of finding the inner end of the ball.

Once you’ve found it, you can pull it out to give you two strands of yarn. Now grab your hook and insert into the stitch where you want to create your first tentacle.

Now pull both strands through.

Then create your first chain, by putting the yarns over your hook and pulling it through the loop on your hook.

Now carry on working chain stitches, till you have 41. You are now going to work 2dc stitches into the second chain from the hook. This is where the arrow is pointing.

Now work 2dc stitches into each chain stitch in the tentacle.

As you work your way back up the tentacle, you will create a spiral effect.

Once you get to the end of the tentacle, slip stitch into the next stitch. (If you are unsure of how to work a slip stitch, see the stitch information at the top of the pattern.)

Now slip stitch again into the next stitch along and the start your second tentacle. So once again *chain 41 stitches.

Work 2dc in the second chain from the hook. Then work 2dc into each chain stitch in the tentacle. Now slip stitch into the next 2 stitches.*

Repeat this ** 6 more times.

Once you have your 8 tentacles, fasten off your yarn and sew you ends into the body of your octopus using your needle.

Face

Right then, so now we are onto the face. We are going to start with the eyes. So you need your white yarn and your 3mm crochet hook. Start by making a magic ring, chaining 1 and then working 6dc into the ring and then slip stitching to the first dc to make a ring. Don’t forget to put the tail really tight to create the nice tight circle. (This is just the same as the start of the octopus’s body if you are unsure.)

Now work 2dc stitches into each stitch until you have 12 stitches. (12)

Finally work *1dc then 2dc stitches into the next stitch* and repeat this ** 6 times. Now fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail so that the eyes can be sewn on. (18)

Make sure you make two of these eyes, one after the other. It is important that you have two when you come to sew them on, as you can see exactly where you want them to be placed.

So to sew them on, grab the middle little tail and using your needle, just loosely sew the tail through to the other side and cut off the visible end. This will gently anchor the eye in place, which will make it easier for you to sew around the edges.

Ok, so now it’s time to sew around the edges of the eye using the long tail and your needle. I have sewn on many of these types of eyes in my time and I have found the best way is to work your way up and down in and out of each stitch. You can see in the picture below how I am coming back up through the next stitch. This will ensure the sewing on thread is hidden and will give a much neater finish to your project.

Once you have finished your first eye, I insert the needle through to the back of the body, where I make a simple knot (seen in the picture below) and insert that back through to the side of the body. This will ensure that the eye is anchored properly.

Now onto the second eye and sew on as before.

Make sure that you keep checking the eyes are level and placed where you want them to be. Don’t be afraid to undo and start again, if it goes a little wonky!!

Ok, so now it’s time to finish the eyes and add the finishing touches with the eyebrows and mouth. Start by threading your needle with black yarn and then knotting the end. Then thread it through from the back, through the middle of the white part of the eye. The knot at the back should be small enough to fit through the middle of a stitch so that it is hidden, but be able to nestle in the stuffing to anchor the eye in place. Now finish your eyes by working little pupils on each eye, by sewing up and over a stitch. You can make these pupils as small or as big as you like.

I seem to usually go over 2 stitches and usually sew it over about 4 times.

To work the eye brows, you can carry on using the black yarn from the eyes. So come up where you want the eyebrow to start and then literally insert it back into the stitch where you want the eye brow to end. It’s pretty simple, but very effective. Don’t make it too big, as they can get caught and snag later on!

Obviously you can make any expression you would like to, just by changing the angle of the eyebrows!

To make the smile, literally come up about two rounds under the first eye.

Then over to the second eye in the same place. Now here’s the tricky part, find the middle of the smile and make a little stitch a few rounds underneath, but make sure your stitch goes over the smile. This is to ensure the mouth is anchored down. Once again as before thread your black yarn to the back of the body, make a simple knot and then sew back through the body and cut off the end.

And here she is, little Olive Octopus.

I really hope you have enjoyed this pattern. Can’t wait to see all your Olly and Olive creations. I wonder what they would be like made up in chunky yarn!! Well any problems, just give us a shout.

Please find below the pattern in the simplest written form below.

Happy hooking everyone!!

🌈Xx

(Free pattern designed and brought to you by PipsRainbow. Thank you for not copying or recreating it. ☺️Xx)

 

Octopus Pattern for all you experienced crocheters.

Body

1 – Using your 3mm hook, make a magic ring, chain 1 and then work 6 dc stitches into the ring.

2 – *2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

3 – *1dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (18)

4 – *2dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (24)

5 – *3dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (30)

6 – *4dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (36)

7 – *5dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (42)

8 – *6dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (48)

9 – *7dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (54)

10 – *8dc, then 2dc into each stitch.* Work ** 6 times. (60)

11 – 18 (8 rounds) For each round, work 1dc into each stitch. (60)

19 – *8dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (54)

20 – *7dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (48)

21 – *6dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (42)

14 – *5dc, then 2dctog*. Work ** 6 times. (36)

15 – 16 (2 rounds) For each round work 1dc into each stitch. (36)

17 – *4dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (30)

18 – For this round work 1dc into each stitch. (30)

19 – *3dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (24)

20 – 1dc in each stitch. (24)

Once you have worked round 20, shape your octopus using your hands. Now stuff your little octopus with toy stuffing.

21 – *2dc, then 2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (18)

22 – *1dc, then 2dctog.* Work ** 6 times. (12)

23 – *2dctog* Work ** 6 times. (6)

Now sew up your 6 stitches using your tapestry needle.

Tentacles

As we are going to use 2 strands of double knit yarn, you need to use a 5mm crochet hook. Now it’s time to start the tentacles. These are going to worked in a circle at the bottom of your octopus’s body.

1 – So to make your tentacles, you need to work 2 strands of double knit wool together. You can use a bigger weights yarn such as Aran yarn, but I like to use the same colour as the body. Now grab your hook and insert into the stitch where you want to create your first tentacle. Now pull both strands through and chain 1.

Now carry on working chain stitches, till you have 41. You are now going to work 2dc stitches into the second chain from the hook.

Now work 2dc stitches into each chain stitch in the tentacle. As you work your way back up the tentacle, you will create a spiral effect.

Once you get to the end of the tentacle, slip stitch into the next stitch.

Now slip stitch again into the next stitch along and the start your second tentacle.

2 – So once again *chain 41 stitches. Work 2dc in the second chain from the hook. Then work 2dc into each chain stitch in the tentacle. Now slip stitch into the next 2 stitches.*

3 – 8 Repeat this ** 6 more times.

Once you have your 8 tentacles, fasten off your yarn and sew your ends into the body of your octopus using your tapestry needle.

Face

Right then, so now we are onto the face.

Eyes – make 2

To make the eyes, start by making a magic ring, chaining 1 and then working 6dc into the ring and then slip stitching to the first dc to make a ring. Don’t forget to put the tail really tight to create the nice tight circle.

Now work 2dc stitches into each stitch until you have 12 stitches. (12)

Finally work *1dc then 2dc stitches into the next stitch* and repeat this ** 6 times. Now fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail so that the eyes can be sewn on. (18)

So to sew them on, grab the middle little tail and using your needle, just loosely sew the tail through to the other side and cut off the visible end. This will gently anchor the eye in place, which will make it easier for you to sew around the edges.

Ok, so now it’s time to sew around the edges of the eye using the long tail and your needle. I have sewn on many of these types of eyes in my time and I have found the best way, is to work your way up and down in and out of each stitch.

Once you have finished your first eye, I insert the needle through to the back of the body, where I make a simple knot and insert that back through to the side of the body. This  will ensure that the eye is anchored properly.

Now onto the second eye and sew on as before.

Ok, so now it’s to finish the eyes and add the finishing touches with the eye brows and the mouth. Start by threading your needle with black yarn and then knitting the end. Then thread it through from the back, through the middle of the white part of the eye. The knot at the back should be small enough to fit through the middle of a stitch so that it is hidden, but be able to nestle in the stuffing the anchor the eye in place. Now finish your eyes by working little pupils on each eye, by sewing up and over a stitch. You make these pupils as small or as big as you like.

I seem to usually go over 2 stitches and usually sew it over about 4 times.

Eyebrows –

To work the eye brows, you can carry on using the black yarn from the eyes. So come up where you want the eyebrow to start and then literally insert it back into the stitch where you want the eyebrow to end. It’s pretty simple, but very effective. Don’t make it too big, as they can get caught and snag later on! Obviously you can make any expression you would like to, just by changing the angle of the eyebrows!

Smile –

To make the smile, literally come up about two rows under the first eye. Then over to the second eye in the same place. Now here’s the tricky part, find the middle of the smile and make a little stitch a few rounds underneath, but make sure your stitch goes over the smile. This is to ensure the mouth is anchored down. Once again as before thread your black yarn to the back of the body, make a simple knot and then sew back through the body and cut off the end.

And there you have it. Hope you have enjoyed this one.

Happy hooking everyone!!

🌈Xx

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Year of the Stitches Week 39 – Blossom Stitch

Blossom Stitch 

Awww – I think my blanket is being used as some kind of Lego mat!!! Bless my daughter. You can’t beat a bit of Lego making! My daughter made this up with her Daddy yesterday afternoon. It’s pretty cool, it’s a little ice cream van and shop. There are so many incredible Lego kits now isn’t there. I remember having a pile of bricks and just having to try our best and use our imagination!! Amazing how things have evolved. Lego is in a whole different level of playing now!! I remember watching a Lego documentary and there are adults that will literally wait for a kit to be released and make it within 24 hours! There was one guy that had his poor girlfriend, sorting pieces so he was quicker to make it! Crazy!! Once he had made it, the finished article would be displayed and never played with. Can’t quite get my head around that, but hey, each to their own!! Fun fact alert from my husband – apparently Lego are the biggest manufacturers of wheels in the world! Who would have thought! Bonkers!!! Anyways!! Lego is definitely back in business and I reckon it’s here to stay!!

Well I think we need a big YEY to the weather this week!! Just incredible! I have to say these are my favourite kind of days. You can keep your scorching hot suns – give me a clear blue sky with crisp but warm sun, any day. Boots and gelert weather and some sunnies on top of your head! Just the best. Look at those skies!!

As I was reading in Simply Crochet magazine, we are entertaining our season at the minute!! The season of crocheted scarves, socks and yarnny hats!!! Ekkk!!! Proper weather!! Hope you are all enjoying your seasonal projects! I seem to be getting through all the birthday pressies at the minute. I made this little lady for daughter’s best chums sister. Hope she will like her.

Think it’s the colour combo I love so much! It’s a mix of a lovely soft dusty pink from Sublime and a West Yorkshire Spinner rainbow sock yarn. I had a bit of duh moment the other day. I’ve realised that some of my all time favourite projects have been with multistranded yarn. And if I ever just want to create something, I will always grab a couple of different colours to create something. I’ve decided it’s because it’s like painting. I get to choose what colours I use, rather than being dictated to by yarn suppliers. I reckon when I have a little more time on my hands, hand dyeing is the way forward. How amazing would it be to create your own colour scheme – I mean think of the rainbow possibilities!! It’s definitely on the to do list!!

So this weeks stitch is called the Blossom stitch. Now I know I should have used this in the spring, but hey, hind sight is a wonderful thing. So the Blossom stitch is another one of those stunning stitches that is made up of V shaped stitches in columns. It works well with pale colours such as this weeks dusty pink Toft wool. It creates quite a dense shape, which would work well for hats or scarves. You could use it with some lovely 4ply or lace weight to create a stunning shawl. Oooo, the possibilities!! Hope you enjoy this one.

Supplies

This week I have once again used the wonderful Toft wool in this lovely pink colour. It’s quite a contrast from the deep purple from last week but they sit well together. Couldn’t resist matching it with the stitch again. Now I know it’s not blossom season and I probably should have used this stitch in the spring, but this colour is definitely a blossom colour. You will need about 30g of DK yarn and don’t forget the 4mm hook, scissors and blunt ended tapestry needle to sew all the ends in.

Stitches

Chain (ch) – To make a chain, place the yarn over the hook then pull it through the loop on your hook.

Double Crochet (dc) – Insert the hook through the stitch, front to back, then yarn over hook and pull back through stitch. You will have two loops on your hook. Then yarn over your hook and pull through both loops.

Treble (tr) – To make a treble crochet, firstly yarn over your hook, insert through space/stitch, yarn over your hook, pull back through space/stitch. There should now be 3 loops on your hook. Then yarn over hook and pull through the first two loops, yarn over hook and pull through the last two loops.

Ok so here we go…

1 – Attach your new yarn onto the right side of your blanket. Now chain 1 and work 1dc in the same stitch.

Now work (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) in the next stitch.

Now miss a stitch and work 1dc in the next stitch.

*Now miss a stitch and work (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) in the next stitch. Then miss a stitch and work 1dc in the next stitch.*

Repeat this ** across the whole row.

Ending with 1dc in the last stitch. (200)

2 – Right so turn your blanket and chain 4.

Now miss the first tr stitch and work 1dc in the first chain 1 space. This is where the arrow is pointing in the picture above.

Now chain 1, miss 1tr and work 1tr in the next dc stitch.

*Ok so now chain 1, miss 1tr and work 1dc in the next ch1sp, chain 1, miss 1tr, then work 1tr in the next dc stitch.*

Repeat this ** across the row.

Finish with 1tr in the last stitch. (200)

3 – Ok so first things first, turn your blanket, chain 1 and miss the first tr and first chain.

So now you are going to work (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) in the next dc stitch. This is where the arrow is pointing in the picture above. Then miss 1ch and work 1dc in the next tr stitch. This is where the arrow is pointing in the picture below.

Now *miss 1ch, work (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) in the next dc, then miss 1ch and work 1dc in the next tr stitch.* So repeat this ** across the whole row.

At the end work 1dc in the top of the chain 4 from the row below.

4 – So now we are going to repeat row 2. Right so turn your blanket and chain 4. Now miss the first tr stitch and work 1dc in the first chain 1 space. This is where the arrow is pointing.

Now chain 1, miss 1tr and work 1tr in the next dc stitch.

*Ok so now chain 1, miss 1tr and work 1dc in the next ch1sp, chain 1, miss 1tr, then work 1tr in the next dc stitch.* Repeat this ** across the row.

Finish with 1tr in the last stitch. (200)

5 – In this row we are going to repeat row 3.

Ok so first things first, turn your blanket, chain 1 and miss the first tr and first chain stitch.

So now you are going to work (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) in the next dc stitch. This is where the arrow is pointing.

Then miss 1ch and work 1dc in the next tr stitch. This is where the arrow is pointing in the picture below. Now *miss 1ch, work (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) in the next dc, then miss 1ch and work 1dc in the next tr stitch.* So repeat this ** across the whole row.

At the end work 1dc in the top of the chain 4 from the row below.

And there we have the beautiful Blossom Stitch. I’m thinking a scarf in this stitch next year!! It’s so delicate, yet so easy to work.

Hope you have enjoyed this weeks CAL instalment.

Happy hooking everyone!!

🌈Xx

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